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NE225W+PM180+ViaWave Design & Build Thread

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  • r-carpenter
    replied
    I really like esthetics of the cabinet work. Very clean with just enough details. Almost Japanese in the approach. Quality of the photography is also very high.

    Leave a comment:


  • jml
    replied
    Good Evening!

    The build portion of the project is now complete. The only thing that I have left to do is get new binding posts. The Dayton ones that I bought are not long enough to go through the 1.5" thick rear baffle. Are there any reasonably priced posts that will work with that thick of a baffle? I see that Propeller Post makes some that are longer, but they are pretty pricey.

    Hopefully I'll be getting some in box measurements within he next week or two.

    Cheers!

    Joe

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  • 6thplanet
    replied
    RC has it right, Roxul and Acoustastuf

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  • r-carpenter
    replied
    Originally posted by bill poster View Post
    So the idea is to put a notch on the Viawave below crossover point?
    I've been using this sort of crossover with many tweeters lately.


    Originally posted by jml View Post
    Good Evening!


    What do you guys use to adhere acoustic foam to the cabinet walls - spray adhesive, double sided tape?
    For high performance builds I prefer to use 1"-1.5" of rock wool, mineral fiber or fiberglass like http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-i...tic-insulation on the walls
    and fill the space with loose fiberglass or polifill http://www.parts-express.com/acousta...b-bag--260-330

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  • jml
    replied
    Just a quick update. Here are the spike assemblies I'll be using.

    - Dayton Super Toes
    - Rockler 3/8-16 screw on T-nuts
    - 2" stainless steel sanitary pipe end-caps with a small hole tapped in the center, then painted flat black.
    Altogether, only about $60.

    Cheers!

    Joe

    Leave a comment:


  • kort2480
    replied
    Very Nice! How Much!?

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  • r-carpenter
    replied
    BTW guys. I am working on Viawave website. If you have pictures and build description or links that you want to share and publish, let me know and I will put them up.

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  • bill poster
    replied
    So the idea is to put a notch on the Viawave below crossover point? I was looking into doing this due to the expense of a 3rd order ..in the end I pushed the X/O up to 3khz (which may turn out to be too much for the midbass I used)

    Leave a comment:


  • bullittstang
    replied
    3M spray adhesive for me, a good coating on the cabinet and foam. It can get messy as the nozzle clogs after a couple applications, so keep a wet cloth to wipe the nozzle with.

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  • jml
    replied
    Good Evening!

    Just a quick update on the Treadnoughts. The "build" portion of the project is complete, and they're ready for finishing. I couldn't resist throwing the drivers in for a test fit.

    What do you guys use to adhere acoustic foam to the cabinet walls - spray adhesive, double sided tape?

    Cheers!

    joe

    Leave a comment:


  • r-carpenter
    replied
    If you can use the deep (PM180) at 2400hz to your advantage, notch 4200hz ringing and possibly do a second order on RT850 with additional notch on 2400hz, I think you can make them work well.
    But this wouldn't be just a modeling game. You'll have to measure the response and adjust the crossover. A bit of finesse will be required.

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by jml View Post
    I plan to leave the wood natural. ... I liked the natural look far better. I am going to finish them in a matte finish soft-touch polyurethane.
    That should look great!

    Leave a comment:


  • jml
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    How do you plan on finishing the pine? I imagine it's southern yellow pine which I believe is stronger than white pine.

    I've had fits staining pine especially white pine (very blotching). Pre-stain helps but is not a cure all. And you have lots of end grain.
    Mike:

    I've worked with pine on a few non-speaker projects, and I've run into the same issues you've described above. The best solution that I've found is to do a many coats (3-6) in order to get even saturation of the stain. If you're using a dark stain this may not be desirable, as it could over-darken the piece, but I've had good success with medium stains. The other thing that can help is not to sand too finely - if you sand down beyond about 200 grit the wood will absorb less stain. Regarding the end grain, it's always a challenge. I haven't found a good way to stop the end grain from over-darkening.

    For this specific project, I plan to leave the wood natural. I stained a few of the scrap staves with a variety of stains that I had on hand, and ultimately, I liked the natural look far better. I am going to finish them in a matte finish soft-touch polyurethane. I don't want any shine to distract from the shape of the speaker and the grain of the wood. I haven't used this product before, so hopefully it turns out how I intend.

    I am hopeful that I'll be able to have the speaker completely done and ready for poly by the end of this coming weekend. The precision ports and binding posts arrive tomorrow, so I can start on the rear baffles. I was originally going to make the port out of stacked wood as well, but I decided that I'm going to go with a precision port, so that I can take it off and easily tweak the box tuning if needed. Similarly, I made the front baffle removable just in case I need to swap out the PM180 or ViaWave for the project, as a few people have indicated it could be challenging to make the transition between the two - hopefully this isn't necessary.

    Cheers!

    Joe

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by jml View Post
    Thanks guys! You'd never guess that they're made from cheap unfinished pine stair treads. As a nod to this, I think I'll dub them Treadnought.

    Cheers!

    Joe
    How do you plan on finishing the pine? I imagine it's southern yellow pine which I believe is stronger than white pine.

    I've had fits staining pine especially white pine (very blotching). Pre-stain helps but is not a cure all. And you have lots of end grain.

    Leave a comment:


  • scottq
    replied
    Just another guy here to complement you on your work. Looks great!

    Leave a comment:

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