Help! Old cabinets

[duanebargeron]

I have a set of old sony speakers that are shot. I want to replace the drivers in the cabinets. The cabinets are 1/2 mdf. Internal dimensions are 8.5Wx15Hx7.25D. So they are .53cuft. They are not ported or braced. The Woofer hole is aprx 5.75 and the tweeter hole is aprx 2.75. I don't mind bracing or porting if needed. Please help with what drivers to replace with and crossover, etc. Thanks for your time.

[davidvwebber]

> I have a set of old sony speakers that are
> shot. I want to replace the drivers in the
> cabinets. The cabinets are 1/2 mdf. Internal
> dimensions are 8.5Wx15Hx7.25D. So they are
> .53cuft. They are not ported or braced. The
> Woofer hole is aprx 5.75 and the tweeter
> hole is aprx 2.75. I don't mind bracing or
> porting if needed. Please help with what
> drivers to replace with and crossover, etc.
> Thanks for your time.
At <A HREF="http://www.SpeakerBuilder.Net">www.SpeakerBuilder.Net</A> all the " PEE " ones are in a 1/2 ft. cubed box . [ Pee - Creek ,
More - Pee and U - Pee ] . I think PE's BR-1 is the same size also , so you could use that pair .
You will have to check the actual dimensions of the speakers in the catolog or here . Also , you can scan the " Project Showcase " on this board for any designs of that volume . The Madisound board may have some kits / designs for that size .
DVW

[Pete Schumacher ®]

> I have a set of old sony speakers that are
> shot. I want to replace the drivers in the
> cabinets. The cabinets are 1/2 mdf. Internal
> dimensions are 8.5Wx15Hx7.25D. So they are
> .53cuft. They are not ported or braced. The
> Woofer hole is aprx 5.75 and the tweeter
> hole is aprx 2.75. I don't mind bracing or
> porting if needed. Please help with what
> drivers to replace with and crossover, etc.
> Thanks for your time.

What's your budget?

[duanebargeron]

> What's your budget?
I would like to keep it around $100 if possible.

[damkor]

SO, you want a 2-way 6.5" system, including a crossover for $100? The BR-1 would work.

Or, 2 Fostex, FE167e would go in the woofer hole. Partially seal up the tweeter, and use it for the port. Use a 1.2mH, 5 ohm for BSC. $140.

[johns]

Not sure on the cabinet size, but I did a Sony retrofit (speakers on left) using the BR-1 design. See if your volume is close to the PE BR-1 kit, and if so consider buying the drivers and components to build it (minus cabinets). I would also recommend checking out Dennis Murphy's crossover designs, in liu of the BR-1 crossover. I believe the 6.5" driver is currently on sale at PE, and the total should be close to your budget. I believe there are many other designs out there that will work with that size cabinet, so look around and read a many comments as possible.

As far as the Sony cabinet, I believe mine were 5/8" fine particle board. I reglued all the joints, and added two broomstick braces. One front to back, and the other side to side. The port was put on the side, and cabinet walls lined with eggcrate accoustic foam.

JohnS

[mikebw]

I know what you mean to do, but beware- this is how it all starts.
I bet most people here one day had this same idea, and they look into it, some might even follow through, but eventually we all come to realize that in the end you will get a much better end result if you just build a new box designed to a particular set of drivers, instead of trying to retro-fit.
Believe me, I've been there.
Good luck.

> I would like to keep it around $100 if
> possible.

[Chris Roemer]

> Not sure on the cabinet size, but I did a
> Sony retrofit (speakers on left) using the
> BR-1 design. See if your volume is close to
> the PE BR-1 kit, and if so consider buying
> the drivers and components to build it
> (minus cabinets). I would also recommend
> checking out Dennis Murphy's crossover
> designs, in liu of the BR-1 crossover. I
> believe the 6.5" driver is currently on
> sale at PE, and the total should be close to
> your budget. I believe there are many other
> designs out there that will work with that
> size cabinet, so look around and read a many
> comments as possible.

> As far as the Sony cabinet, I believe mine
> were 5/8" fine particle board. I
> reglued all the joints, and added two
> broomstick braces. One front to back, and
> the other side to side. The port was put on
> the side, and cabinet walls lined with
> eggcrate accoustic foam.

> JohnS

All the above posts are good. So here's what you do.

Buy 2 6.5" woofers and 2 tweeters (the woofers are on sale now saving you $6 - $8). You could either buy the shielded ones or not. The non-shielded ones cost a tad less. I've personally used the -070 silky (non-shielded - 'cause I once bought 5 pair on sale) with the shielded 6.5" ( -306 ) woofer, 'cause it prefers a slightly smaller box than the -305. Either should work fine in your box. I've vented out the top with a 2.5" dia. x 14" long (tall) vent, but a lot less work for you will be to just use a 2" port and run it out the back ('cause it'll probably chuff). A popular placement is ofter right up behind the tweeter.

I'm sure Dennis and Wayne's xos for these drivers offer a less subdued midrange than the BR-1 plans, but in the spirit of budget, and the fact that I think your 1/2" thick cabs are your weakest link, I'd just copy one of the BR-1 xos.

You'll have to line the insides of your boxes with either convoluted foam (Wal-mart mattress pad) or kanga-back carpeting (not as good, but could be free if you know where you can get some). Cabs generally should be at least 3/4" thick walls. If you don't want to add at least another 1/4" of material to the outsides, you'll have to run a few internal braces inside to tie everything together, maybe 3 braces made from 3/4" dowling, one in each direction.

The BR-1 kits seem to be over your budget, but you may find that the drivers, xo parts, dampening, and bracing and/or adding wall thickness could cost you more. Try to calc all this before you order, 'cause the BR-1 kits will be superior to your retrofit, and are a real bargain.

Chris