box building adhesive

[karl]

so just curious to know if you guys are using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue yet but liquid nails has been great in the past.

[matg]

gorilla works killer!!! just wet one side of the joint and apply glue to the other. When the glue kicks, it will form a foam that injects the glue into every nook and crack. Just wear disposable latex or nitril gloves or the gorilla glue will stain your hands purple/black, and it does not wash off!

> so just curious to know if you guys are
> using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build
> your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue
> yet but liquid nails has been great in the
> past.

[mdc]

Titebond is really good stuff. Not harmful to get on your skin. Water soluble. Watch the New Yankee Workshop sometime..Ol' Norm has it scattered all over his shop..

> so just curious to know if you guys are
> using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build
> your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue
> yet but liquid nails has been great in the
> past.

[Mr.Thomas Aaron Hero]

> so just curious to know if you guys are
> using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build
> your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue
> yet but liquid nails has been great in the
> past.
The absolute and only glue you will probably EVER need to glue partical board,solid wood,MDF or plywood cabinets together is Elmers or Titebond wood glue,Gorilla glue has its place,liquid nails is probably the worse glue to use,I have been working with wood for almost 30 years if not more and cant think of ANY use for liquid nails,

Just use wood glue! Aaron H.

[dancarroll]

Cheaper, easier to work with, and once it dries, you aren't breaking the joint. After you apply and clamp, get an old rag and a straight blade screwdriver, moisten the rag, and wipe away the glue that squeezes out. Do that every few minutes and you wind up with very little glue to have to sand.

Plus, buy a gallon of Titebond II and use it not only for boxes but also with the iron on glue method for applying veneer. Works great, more flexible than contact cement, and not as smelly or dangerous.

[dancarroll]

> The absolute and only glue you will probably
> EVER need to glue partical board,solid
> wood,MDF or plywood cabinets together is
> Elmers or Titebond wood glue,Gorilla glue
> has its place,liquid nails is probably the
> worse glue to use,I have been working with
> wood for almost 30 years if not more and
> cant think of ANY use for liquid nails,

I can. I use it to connect braces to the baffles if I don't manage to get the sizes just right. It fills up the gap a bit. Less of an issue now than in the past, since I got a new table saw fence and perfected my skills a bit, but still useful for that task. Otherwise, I am with you on wood glue.

[Wolf]

> so just curious to know if you guys are
> using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build
> your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue
> yet but liquid nails has been great in the
> past.

It's a syrupy expanding-polyurethane type like the Gorilla, but cheaper. I find it doesn't let go! It's a scrape or sand for excess removal when dry, and recommends acetone to clean up when wet. I have wiped excess with a non-linting cloth with good results, and haven't felt the need for a chemical removal. Sets up for clamp removal in 4hrs, and full-strength in 24hrs.
Later,
Wolf

[bogie]

If I'm not worried about what the box is going to look like, I'll use Gorilla Glue... It oozes/expands as it dries... Fine if you're covering with carpet or a high-bulk finish.

> so just curious to know if you guys are
> using liquid nails or gorilla glue to build
> your enclosures. I havent used gorilla glue
> yet but liquid nails has been great in the
> past.

[bogie]

> worse glue to use,I have been working with
> wood for almost 30 years if not more and
> cant think of ANY use for liquid nails,

If you run a bead on each stud before you hang the drywall, it makes for a much deader wall. It also makes tearout a lot more difficult...

[bogie]

Normally I don't wet stuff, but then again, I live in St. Louis, where humdity is a way of life.

> gorilla works killer!!! just wet one side of
> the joint and apply glue to the other. When
> the glue kicks, it will form a foam that
> injects the glue into every nook and crack.
> Just wear disposable latex or nitril gloves
> or the gorilla glue will stain your hands
> purple/black, and it does not wash off!

[paul_n_oneal]

I agree. I buy it by the gallon and it after about a year in need of another gallon. Works very well and easy to clean up and fills the cracks pretty good too.

[cole]

I also agree. After gluing a few pieces with this stuff ,I let it dry for a few days and tried to break the joint. It did come apart but not at the joint. It actually ripped wood from the ajoining board. Very durable.

[matg]

bread does not mold here, it turns into unseasoned crouton.

> Normally I don't wet stuff, but then again,
> I live in St. Louis, where humdity is a way
> of life.

[matg]

also, gorilla is much better on areas that will have an exposed seem that gets stained. Yellow PVA type glues like titebond don't take stain well and can leave a visable line, gorilla does not have that problem, plus it will glue more materials than PVA.

> If I'm not worried about what the box is
> going to look like, I'll use Gorilla Glue...
> It oozes/expands as it dries... Fine if
> you're covering with carpet or a high-bulk
> finish.

[greglenz]

When I was in high school my shop teacher had a standing offer - $20.00 to anyone that could break the glue at a glue joint. He never made a payout - it was always the wood that broke. We at the time were using Elmers. I now use Titebond bought a gallon at a time.

Wood glue is all you need. Cheap. Easy to use.

[Mr.Thomas Aaron Hero]

> I agree. I buy it by the gallon and it after
> about a year in need of another gallon.
> Works very well and easy to clean up and
> fills the cracks pretty good too.
I go thru a gallon of wood glue on every pair of speakers I build!It takes alot of glue to build up the layers,But I dont have to worry about it freezing or going bad! Aaron H.

[Mr.Thomas Aaron Hero]

> also, gorilla is much better on areas that
> will have an exposed seem that gets stained.
> Yellow PVA type glues like titebond don't
> take stain well and can leave a visable
> line, gorilla does not have that problem,
> plus it will glue more materials than PVA.
When I work with natural wood and have a joint that might show a glue mark,I pre stain the area,making sure not to get any stain on the area that is to be glued or the glue wont stick.It works very well at eliminating any problems with the stain later. A.H.

[karl]

WEll thanks everybody for their thoughts. Actually i have forgotten that i have used tightbond as well and that hes not had a problem yet. My main speakers which i did not build sadly they are a brand name i was disappointed that had a problem like this. but the front bottom where the powered sub is at was coming loose. and vibrating. so i took out the sub lightly pulled the board from the box and dumped glue down into the seams. clamped it tight wiped down the edges with a damp rag then ran liquid nails along the interior of the box. i dont expect those little woofers will break that loose.

but now i am thinking of building a 15" sub win about a 4cu ft enclosure using the BEHRINGER EP2500 to power it...it should have massive sound so naturally i thought i should ask opinions on the different adhesives. i have some tightbond 3 laying around here someplace i think. but probably not enough to build a box of that size...actually i should say to build it well