Car svc sub, dual signal...

[holten7]

I need to replace the factory 6x9" subwoofer in the rear of my car. It is being fed by both channels, through a small inductor for each channel bolted to the speaker frame, then into dual 4 ohm voice coils.

The only 6x9" replacement sub driver I can find also just so happens to be right here at PE.

<A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-837">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-837</A>

But this looks to be a single 8ohm voice coil.

I do NOT want to sink a lot of money into this... I'm just swapping out the factory speakers in the car because the foam surrounds are shot (it's a 1993 Accord wagon). I got a power window repaired, saw the foam rot on the door speaker, changed those out, found the single sub, same rot, want to swap it out.

How should I.. can I.. wire this TB driver into this system? Am I going to have to buy some .... device... amp or crossover or whatever.. to combine the two channels into a single signal?

Thanks for any advice.

[aaron_garmon]

I would run the wires to a box in the back containing one Dual voice coil sub or two single voice coil subs. You would not be limited to a 6x9 shape that way.
Is this cheap enough? <A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-362">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-362</A>

I would personally go with this: <A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-310">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-310</A>

You are going to get better bass out of a decent enclosure, and if you are short on power just do a ported box.

That's what I'd do.
--Aaron Garmon

> I need to replace the factory 6x9"
> subwoofer in the rear of my car. It is being
> fed by both channels, through a small
> inductor for each channel bolted to the
> speaker frame, then into dual 4 ohm voice
> coils.

> The only 6x9" replacement sub driver I
> can find also just so happens to be right
> here at PE.

>
> <A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-837">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-837</A>
> But this looks to be a single 8ohm voice
> coil.

> I do NOT want to sink a lot of money into
> this... I'm just swapping out the factory
> speakers in the car because the foam
> surrounds are shot (it's a 1993 Accord
> wagon). I got a power window repaired, saw
> the foam rot on the door speaker, changed
> those out, found the single sub, same rot,
> want to swap it out.

> How should I.. can I.. wire this TB driver
> into this system? Am I going to have to buy
> some .... device... amp or crossover or
> whatever.. to combine the two channels into
> a single signal?

> Thanks for any advice.

[Chris Roemer]

> I would run the wires to a box in the back
> containing one Dual voice coil sub or two
> single voice coil subs. You would not be
> limited to a 6x9 shape that way.
> Is this cheap enough?
> <A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-362">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=290-362</A>
> I would personally go with this:
> <A HREF="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-310">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-310</A>
> You are going to get better bass out of a
> decent enclosure, and if you are short on
> power just do a ported box.

> That's what I'd do.
> --Aaron Garmon

WinISD <A HREF="http://www.linearteam.org">www.linearteam.org</A> thinks that the GW will break 50Hz in a 2 cf closed box. That MA driver looks like it'll only do 70Hz in .5 cf.

Dayton's 8"DVC will also break 50Hz in a closed .7 cf box (.6 cf if stuffed w/fiberglass or poly), and will reach below 35 in 1 cf with a 2"d x 11" rear vent.