Hyperproductive kind of day on the project *PIC*

[shawn_a]

I braved the searing heat today and got quite a bit accomplished on the latest project. The main parts of the cabinets are almost completely assembled. You gotta love a really hot day when you want the glue to dry faster. The Titebond was setting up in record time today, I was able to take off the clamps after 20 minutes which is darn near instant compared to my normal waiting time.

Then I got a wee bit anxious to see how the veneer would look. So I had to make up a couple of samples of course. I was originally planning on using a cold press adhesive which is what I told Mr. Stockman yesterday on the phone. Well hold the presses folks, I'm going to go a different route.

I headed out to Lowe's for a fresher bottle of glue than the one I've been using for awhile. I decided to give the iron method a go and I have to say I'm rather impressed at how easy and well it worked. The veneer is on the scrap MDF solidly with no signs of troubles yet. Maybe I won't have any more veneer shrinkage reports to post this time around (yes, that was directed at YOU, Mr. Cottiers.)

Then I started playing around with finish ideas. I have a couple of tins of Danish Oil on hand so what the hey, let's see what happens. After two coats I'm pretty happy with it. The figure on the madrone burl is popping out pretty good. The sapele is looking pretty sweet too IMO. I'm going to put the full efforts on these speakers this week and I hope to be veneering the cabinets by the end of the week. Lemme know what you think of the samples.

shawn

[nick29498141]

Those do look amazing!

I like the sapple. it just has the right grain look for me.

Nice work, as usual.

NK

[chrisn]

I prefer the one on the right, but you can't go wrong with either. You are making me want to veneer something, but I will resist, for now.

I went out to work on my car around midnight and it was still 85 degrees, hotter in the garage.

[Wolf]

The figure on the madrone burl is
> popping out pretty good. The sapele is
> looking pretty sweet too IMO.

Is that from right to left?

I got the Scandivifia project paint initialized on one of the cabs. The other still has to be primed. I'm taking my time on these! I have about 3 coats of paint on it, and have sanded with 400 in between. Tomorrow, the grit is 1000, then steel wool....

(sorry- no pics yet)

I have all the damping handy, just need to cut it, and install.

Those of you with clear-coat experience, what is a great non-yellowing clear-coat? Polycrylic? I am using Krylon's crystal-clear-gloss right now. I don't want a lacquer, as I don't want to have to wear a respirator, or use an unowned sprayer. Spray-bomb or brush-on only.
Later,
Wolf

[Andy_G]

ditto!!

Construction on bass cabinets for "The Juke" is complete. Now I just have to clean them up in preparation for painting.

They are now effectively 1.5" mdf all round with 3"x1.5" bracing !!! should be solid enough I reckon !

Darn things have got mighty heavy though !!! :-)

[garys]

> The figure on the madrone burl is

> Is that from right to left?

> I got the Scandivifia project paint
> initialized on one of the cabs. The other
> still has to be primed. I'm taking my time
> on these! I have about 3 coats of paint on
> it, and have sanded with 400 in between.
> Tomorrow, the grit is 1000, then steel
> wool....

> (sorry- no pics yet)

> I have all the damping handy, just need to
> cut it, and install.

> Those of you with clear-coat experience,
> what is a great non-yellowing clear-coat?
> Polycrylic? I am using Krylon's
> crystal-clear-gloss right now. I don't want
> a lacquer, as I don't want to have to wear a
> respirator, or use an unowned sprayer.
> Spray-bomb or brush-on only.
> Later,
> Wolf

Hey Wolf )
I like to use Deft spray cans. It is laquer, but I doubt you would be exposed long enough to do any damage. The Deft cans have a great spray head and lay down a nice vertical or hoizontal pattern, not round. If i can't use my compressor and a gun with laquer the I use Deft with great results!

Gary S.

[waynew]

That's just awesome Shawn. I love the grain on both of those. I will be posting on the finalized and completely finished Scimitars in a few days (we can't forget about our buddies the walnut trees and oak trees), and then, I hope to be done veneering the cherry onto the Cinderella's Part Deux.

[billschu]

I like the one on the right the best but I do like them both. Is that the Watco Danish oil? Perhaps in Walnut? If not, what is it?

Bill

> I braved the searing heat today and got
> quite a bit accomplished on the latest
> project. The main parts of the cabinets are
> almost completely assembled. You gotta love
> a really hot day when you want the glue to
> dry faster. The Titebond was setting up in
> record time today, I was able to take off
> the clamps after 20 minutes which is darn
> near instant compared to my normal waiting
> time.

> Then I got a wee bit anxious to see how the
> veneer would look. So I had to make up a
> couple of samples of course. I was
> originally planning on using a cold press
> adhesive which is what I told Mr. Stockman
> yesterday on the phone. Well hold the
> presses folks, I'm going to go a different
> route.

> I headed out to Lowe's for a fresher bottle
> of glue than the one I've been using for
> awhile. I decided to give the iron method a
> go and I have to say I'm rather impressed at
> how easy and well it worked. The veneer is
> on the scrap MDF solidly with no signs of
> troubles yet. Maybe I won't have any more
> veneer shrinkage reports to post this time
> around (yes, that was directed at YOU, Mr.
> Cottiers.)

> Then I started playing around with finish
> ideas. I have a couple of tins of Danish Oil
> on hand so what the hey, let's see what
> happens. After two coats I'm pretty happy
> with it. The figure on the madrone burl is
> popping out pretty good. The sapele is
> looking pretty sweet too IMO. I'm going to
> put the full efforts on these speakers this
> week and I hope to be veneering the cabinets
> by the end of the week. Lemme know what you
> think of the samples.

> shawn

[hulan]

> I prefer the one on the right, but you can't
> go wrong with either. You are making me want
> to veneer something, but I will resist, for
> now.

I second that! Definately the one on the right. Is that the saple?

[Paul K.]

I used Polycryllic on the oak bases on the TuLines applied with a brush. It came out perfectly clear and hasn't yellowed.
Paul

> The figure on the madrone burl is

> Is that from right to left?

> I got the Scandivifia project paint
> initialized on one of the cabs. The other
> still has to be primed. I'm taking my time
> on these! I have about 3 coats of paint on
> it, and have sanded with 400 in between.
> Tomorrow, the grit is 1000, then steel
> wool....

> (sorry- no pics yet)

> I have all the damping handy, just need to
> cut it, and install.
> Those of you with clear-coat experience,
> what is a great non-yellowing clear-coat?
> Polycrylic? I am using Krylon's
> crystal-clear-gloss right now. I don't want
> a lacquer, as I don't want to have to wear a
> respirator, or use an unowned sprayer.
> Spray-bomb or brush-on only.
> Later,
> Wolf

[shawn_a]

> I second that! Definately the one on the
> right. Is that the saple?

The piece on the right is the madrone burl. The sapele will be used in a supporting role to the madrone, which I find to be almost too darn nice to believe. Very easy to use and is flexible as all get out. I did some goofing around today wrapping some tight radius bends and it did very well.

shawn

[shawn_a]

> I like the one on the right the best but I
> do like them both. Is that the Watco Danish
> oil? Perhaps in Walnut? If not, what is it?

> Bill

Watco Danish oil of the natural flavor. What I've found out about using Danish oil is that the color of the wood gets richer and richer as the days, months and years pass.

shawn

[Wolf]

> I used Polycryllic on the oak bases on the
> TuLines applied with a brush. It came out
> perfectly clear and hasn't yellowed.
> Paul

Thanks, Paul! I will most likely take this approach for the final layers. Did you steel wool?
Later,
Wolf

[billschu]

I use the same stuff but I have only used it on Birch and Maple. Now I can't wait to try it on Cherry and Walnut, etc.

To be honest, I wasn't real pleased with how it came out on the Birch so I threw on a coat of Zar poly which really came out nice. I can send you a picture if you'd like. The styling is to avant-guard for my wife but they sound really nice.

Bill

> Watco Danish oil of the natural flavor. What
> I've found out about using Danish oil is
> that the color of the wood gets richer and
> richer as the days, months and years pass.

> shawn

[Paul K.]

I usually brush on 4 coats of this poly. I use a very high-quality synthetic-bristle brush, sanding after the first 3 coats with 240-grit sandpaper. I don't do anything after the 4th coat, but I put it on very thin (the better the brush, the easier this is to do). In fact, the instructions on the Polycryllic can tell you NOT to use steel wool.
Paul

> Thanks, Paul! I will most likely take this
> approach for the final layers. Did you steel
> wool?
> Later,
> Wolf

[waynew]

> I usually brush on 4 coats of this poly. I
> use a very high-quality synthetic-bristle
> brush, sanding after the first 3 coats with
> 240-grit sandpaper. I don't do anything
> after the 4th coat, but I put it on very
> thin (the better the brush, the easier this
> is to do). In fact, the instructions on the
> Polycryllic can tell you NOT to use steel
> wool.
> Paul

Steel wool should only be used if you are going to attempt to polish the poly. I like to go with the 220grit in between coats, and then let the last coat sit flat if it will...if it won't, I use steel wool to apply paste wax or buffing compound, and then work my way up to terry cloth with polishing compound...(this usually doesn't work well with poly!).
Another nice trick is to wait about 24 hours and rub the cabinet with a T-shirt. Rub briskly and apply moderate pressure, this helps knock off the dried bits of schmegma that get caught in the poly as it dries.

[Paul K.]

Whether or not it is, I know what you're talking about and I appreciate the tip on how to get rid of it.
Paul

> Steel wool should only be used if you are
> going to attempt to polish the poly. I like
> to go with the 220grit in between coats, and
> then let the last coat sit flat if it
> will...if it won't, I use steel wool to
> apply paste wax or buffing compound, and
> then work my way up to terry cloth with
> polishing compound...(this usually doesn't
> work well with poly!).
> Another nice trick is to wait about 24 hours
> and rub the cabinet with a T-shirt. Rub
> briskly and apply moderate pressure, this
> helps knock off the dried bits of schmegma
> that get caught in the poly as it dries.

[envisionelec]

> Whether or not it is, I know what you're
> talking about and I appreciate the tip on
> how to get rid of it.
> Paul

Hehehe. Yeah, but it's not spelled like that. Kind of like dingle-berries. It's not a fruit.

[waynew]

> Hehehe. Yeah, but it's not spelled like
> that. Kind of like dingle-berries. It's not
> a fruit.

Heehee. I wondered if anyone was paying attention.

[shawn_a]

> Heehee. I wondered if anyone was paying
> attention.

I was just circumsiziventing the whole issue.

shawn