Shawn A... acoustic bass question... *PIC*

[romanbednarek]

Provided Link: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...tar?sku=519831


I seem to recall that you bought an acoustic bass a while back. I've been looking into possibly getting one for my birthday and was wondering what you thought of yours. I think you got a Dean. Could you tell me the model and what you think of it? How is the action? How does it sound acoustically and can it keep up with a steel string acoustic guitar in volume level?

I've been looking at the one at the link below. It is the least expensive one with a solid spruce top and solid mahogany sides and back. There's also an Ibanez in the same price range that looks interesting.

Can anybody else suggest a nice acoustic bass in the sub $400 range?

[shawn_a]

The one I bought is almost that one. Mine is a Dean EAB Playmate while the one in the picture is the Cutaway model. Get the cutaway, you'll be better off getting to the upper frets that way. That's about the only issue I have with mine. Still it has really surprised me a lot in many ways.

I read a metric buttload of comments at Musicians Friend that said the stock strings absolutely need to be replaced immediately. Well I didn't and now I'm kind of glad I didn't. Once things settled down a bit and I got it dialed in to the way I like things the sound has become pretty darn nice. The overall tone is sort of neutral to my ear. Not overly warm but it has character. I'm hoping that it ages well and develops a nice, rich sound but so far it's nice to hear. Great sustain and plenty o' volume too. I have to force myself to play pianissimo at the most for my small hours backyard chill sessions, it's pretty darn apparent that it's decently loud if I really hammer on it. Plus I've noticed that it's holding tune a lot longer than when I first got it. I was about to go Pete Townshend on the thing during the first month because the tuning would go waaaaaaaaaaay funky if I breathed on it wrong or looked cross-eyed at it.

The down side is that the neck isn't quite as fast as I would like but it's not that much of a problem and it's getting better the more I play on it. Another thing to watch for is too make sure the nut hasn't been filed down too much at the factory. I went ahead and replaced the stock one and I was finally able to get rid of a pesky fret buzz that was driving me crazy.

Overall it's a pretty decent axe for the money. I haven't tried the Ibanez you mentioned but that's due to more personal preference than anything. I had an old SR500 that I hated to no end and that pretty much spoiled me from liking the make ever again. I might have to go down to the music shop sometime soon for a research mission to see if I still have the same opinion of Ibanez but I'm not holding my breath.

shawn

[Mark65]

Provided Link: Ibanez Exotic Wood Acoustic-Electric Bass


> I seem to recall that you bought an acoustic
> bass a while back. I've been looking into
> possibly getting one for my birthday and was
> wondering what you thought of yours. I think
> you got a Dean. Could you tell me the model
> and what you think of it? How is the action?
> How does it sound acoustically and can it
> keep up with a steel string acoustic guitar
> in volume level?

> I've been looking at the one at the link
> below. It is the least expensive one with a
> solid spruce top and solid mahogany sides
> and back. There's also an Ibanez in the same
> price range that looks interesting.

> Can anybody else suggest a nice acoustic
> bass in the sub $400 range?

Hi, Roman, I need to tell you three things...first, your speaker designs and website are amazing, I can't wait to hear how your 2.5 way MTM's sound when Gary is done building them. Second, buy a guitar, any guitar, based on what YOU like. Get the info you need, then find someone who sells the models you like locally, and go play them. There's no substitute for holding it in your hands and feeling and hearing and touching and looking, the acoustic guitar that I have is a model that I never would have considered from looking at it online, but it's the best playing and sounding guitar that I've ever heard in its price range (which is budget, I have to admit). Third, I'm including a link to a bass on Musician's friend that's a little outside your cost specs, but IMHO, is well worth the extra bucks. I'm not a bassist, but I've played a guitar in the same line by them (sorry, Shawn it's an Ibanez) that just blew me away in its tone, looks, feel, and cost. I can't afford one right now, but when I go to get an acoustic bass (and I will) I'm gonna look HARD at this one. Hope I helped.

Mark

[shawn_a]

When I finally got totally fed up with the Ibanez I went from the SR500 directly to a Warwick Corvette FNA. Night and day, apples and oranges, whatever your favorite phrase. The Ibanez simply must have been born bad because I know people who swear by 'em. It was like Christine went from being a Plymouth Fury to a bass guitar. I played an Ibanez only once after that and that was painful because the owner had the action set about a yard off the board. No buzz for sure but my fingers were toast after an hour of jamming.

I traded it in as part payment on the Warwick and it was on the rack all of 1 day according to the guys at the store. I guess it made some kid pretty happy on his birthday but maybe I should have left a note of warning in the case for the next owner LOL.

shawn

[Mark65]

> When I finally got totally fed up with the
> Ibanez I went from the SR500 directly to a
> Warwick Corvette FNA. Night and day, apples
> and oranges, whatever your favorite phrase.
> The Ibanez simply must have been born bad
> because I know people who swear by 'em. It
> was like Christine went from being a
> Plymouth Fury to a bass guitar. I played an
> Ibanez only once after that and that was
> painful because the owner had the action set
> about a yard off the board. No buzz for sure
> but my fingers were toast after an hour of
> jamming.

> I traded it in as part payment on the
> Warwick and it was on the rack all of 1 day
> according to the guys at the store. I guess
> it made some kid pretty happy on his
> birthday but maybe I should have left a note
> of warning in the case for the next owner
> LOL.

> shawn

I had a soundgear bass, bottom of the line for sure, but still...the frets were so badly done that they were cutting my hand...that is unacceptable at any level. That's why I say go play the thing, no matter how great the writeups, or specs you can still get a "Friday special" when you buy online, you may hate the hot rod and love the base model, you just never know. Although, I have to admit, I would probably trust that I'm getting a good bass if I were to buy a Warwick online. Good choice, man.

Mark

[romanbednarek]

Provided Link: http://www.ibanez.com/acoustic/guitar.aspx?m=AEB10ELG


> I had a soundgear bass, bottom of the line
> for sure, but still...the frets were so
> badly done that they were cutting my
> hand...that is unacceptable at any level.
> That's why I say go play the thing, no
> matter how great the writeups, or specs you
> can still get a "Friday special"
> when you buy online, you may hate the hot
> rod and love the base model, you just never
> know. Although, I have to admit, I would
> probably trust that I'm getting a good bass
> if I were to buy a Warwick online. Good
> choice, man.

> Mark

I have an old Ibanez Iceman electric guitar that still plays great and the action is very low. I have no issues with Ibanez but I am not very familiar with their recent stuff.

I've been checking out the Ibanez acoustic bass below. The local shop has one and I'm going to go check it out. All of the reviews have been great. I like the fact that it has Fishman pickups and electronics (both my acoustic and classical have them). I like the solid spruce top and mahogany sides and back. My classical guitar is the same way and it has a nice, full sound which would be great for a bass. I've looked at some of the exotic wood basses but I'm not so sure I would prefer them to a good spruce soundboard.

I found the Dean acoustic bass that I was thinking about before on an Ebay site for a buy it now price of $250 here... <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Dean-Perform...QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Dean-Perform...QQcmdZViewItem</A>
I'm just not sure if it is a B stock item because I saw some different postings that were.

I'm probaby going to go with the Ibanez though as long as it plays nice and sounds good. I like to play a guitar before I buy it and that is tough to do over the internet. However the Dean is $100 less than the Ibanez.

[romanbednarek]

> I have an old Ibanez Iceman electric guitar
> that still plays great and the action is
> very low. I have no issues with Ibanez but I
> am not very familiar with their recent
> stuff.

> I've been checking out the Ibanez acoustic
> bass below. The local shop has one and I'm
> going to go check it out. All of the reviews
> have been great. I like the fact that it has
> Fishman pickups and electronics (both my
> acoustic and classical have them). I like
> the solid spruce top and mahogany sides and
> back. My classical guitar is the same way
> and it has a nice, full sound which would be
> great for a bass. I've looked at some of the
> exotic wood basses but I'm not so sure I
> would prefer them to a good spruce
> soundboard.

> I found the Dean acoustic bass that I was
> thinking about before on an Ebay site for a
> buy it now price of $250 here...
> <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Dean-Perform...QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Dean-Perform...QQcmdZViewItem</A>
> I'm just not sure if it is a B stock item
> because I saw some different postings that
> were.

> I'm probaby going to go with the Ibanez
> though as long as it plays nice and sounds
> good. I like to play a guitar before I buy
> it and that is tough to do over the
> internet. However the Dean is $100 less than
> the Ibanez.

I ended up picking up the Ibanez for $350. They had the black ash one that you suggested there as well but I didn't like the way that one sounded as much. It had a tinny sound to it and I preferred the warmer tone of the mahogany. I didn't like the flat black either because it made the guitar look like painted plywood.

The action is pretty good and the built in tuner is very handy. It isn't quite as loud as I was hoping but the black one wasn't any louder. I'll have to break it in and get used to it.

[paulv]

Hi guys.

This is a bit different response based on all of your observations and comments.

When reading about or doing a hands-on evaluation of a guitar or bass, please keep in mind the following :

The factory “setup” will seldom, if ever, meet with your approval.

Instruments are set-up at the factory to
proprietary specifications that facilitates the fastest and least expensive (you can also read that as: cheapest) way to get the instrument from raw wood to out-the-door. Setups take time and (especially)in a production environment: TIME=$$$$$$

Think of it like buying a new car. You have to adjust the seat, mirrors, steering column and other stuff until it’s comfortable for you.

It’s the same with guitars & basses. And this just doesn’t apply to budget or entry level guitars. I’ve had to do setups on several brand new $3K+ that were unplayable right from the factory. This is especiall true of 2 of America's most trusted and famous makers. One makes extremely heavy mahogany & maple electrics and one makes the most traditional of acoustics. You'd be amazed!

If buying from a local store, ask the dealer to have their guitar technician do a personalized setup as part of the buying agreement. What? They don’t have a tech on staff? WOW….I guess CG , Sam Ash etc., AREN’T the godsends we thought they would be. Gee, and they’ve killed all the mom & pop shops in the process. See how we’re now paying for their “best-procing benevolence”? But that’s a rant for a different time.

Also, when reading online reviews (and I’m putting my Nomex suit on now) PLEASE remember that many are written by people who have no technical knowledge of how an instrument is built or adjusted. “I’ve only been playing for a year” should be a red flag to go onto the next review. Look for reviews written by experienced players. But over-all, make your own observations and decisions. “Votes” are worthless…especially once you plunk down your hard-earned $$$$$$.

In order to get the knowledge and information needed to evaluate an instrument, I suggest that ALL guitarists & bassists get a copy of Dan Erlewine’s “Guitar Player Repair Guide”. It’s usually in stock at larger book stores or search for it on the web .

This book is written for the sub-novice to the intermediate level technician and will provide you ALL the basic information you need to make almost any instrument [that doesn’t have severe structural deficiencies] play like a top-of-the-line instrument. It will also instruct you on how to modify and maintain your instruments.

But most importantly, it will give you information on how to adjust the instrument to YOUR personal preference.

Can a $125 instrument be made to play like a $5000 instrument? YOU BET and with only about a $25 investment in tools (that will continue to serve you for decades) and a few bucks worth of wet/dry sandpaper, a little 0000 steel wool and a wothwhile INVESTMENT of your time. Learning just a few simple setup skills along with basic fret leveling and dressing techniques will save you many hundreds of dollars in maintenance and repair costs over a lifetime.

The absolute best part is that you will be able to take an “I love it but the action & frets suck” instrument and turn it into a pro-grade playing instrument with a few hours of work.

Now, for the sake of clarification, these improvements will make the instrument sound “a bit better” but it won’t make that $125 guitar SOUND like the $5000 guitar. It’ll just play like one.

If you’d like guitar/bass/amp advice or guidance that’s not covered in this post, PLEASE FEEL FREE to send your questions to my personal e-mail. No charge for PE forum readers.

Hope this helped,

Paul
Guitar Improvements LTD.

[Mark65]

> Hi guys.

> This is a bit different response based on
> all of your observations and comments.

> When reading about or doing a hands-on
> evaluation of a guitar or bass, please keep
> in mind the following :

> The factory “setup” will seldom, if ever,
> meet with your approval.

> Instruments are set-up at the factory to
> proprietary specifications that facilitates
> the fastest and least expensive (you can
> also read that as: cheapest) way to get the
> instrument from raw wood to out-the-door.
> Setups take time and (especially)in a
> production environment: TIME=$$$$$$

> Think of it like buying a new car. You have
> to adjust the seat, mirrors, steering column
> and other stuff until it’s comfortable for
> you.

> It’s the same with guitars & basses. And
> this just doesn’t apply to budget or entry
> level guitars. I’ve had to do setups on
> several brand new $3K+ that were unplayable
> right from the factory. This is especiall
> true of 2 of America's most trusted and
> famous makers. One makes extremely heavy
> mahogany & maple electrics and one makes
> the most traditional of acoustics. You'd be
> amazed!

> If buying from a local store, ask the dealer
> to have their guitar technician do a
> personalized setup as part of the buying
> agreement. What? They don’t have a tech on
> staff? WOW….I guess CG , Sam Ash etc.,
> AREN’T the godsends we thought they would
> be. Gee, and they’ve killed all the mom
> & pop shops in the process. See how
> we’re now paying for their “best-procing
> benevolence”? But that’s a rant for a
> different time.

> Also, when reading online reviews (and I’m
> putting my Nomex suit on now) PLEASE
> remember that many are written by people who
> have no technical knowledge of how an
> instrument is built or adjusted. “I’ve only
> been playing for a year” should be a red
> flag to go onto the next review. Look for
> reviews written by experienced players. But
> over-all, make your own observations and
> decisions. “Votes” are worthless…especially
> once you plunk down your hard-earned $$$$$$.

> In order to get the knowledge and
> information needed to evaluate an
> instrument, I suggest that ALL guitarists
> & bassists get a copy of Dan Erlewine’s
> “Guitar Player Repair Guide”. It’s usually
> in stock at larger book stores or search for
> it on the web .

> This book is written for the sub-novice to
> the intermediate level technician and will
> provide you ALL the basic information you
> need to make almost any instrument [that
> doesn’t have severe structural deficiencies]
> play like a top-of-the-line instrument. It
> will also instruct you on how to modify and
> maintain your instruments.

> But most importantly, it will give you
> information on how to adjust the instrument
> to YOUR personal preference.

> Can a $125 instrument be made to play like a
> $5000 instrument? YOU BET and with only
> about a $25 investment in tools (that will
> continue to serve you for decades) and a few
> bucks worth of wet/dry sandpaper, a little
> 0000 steel wool and a wothwhile INVESTMENT
> of your time. Learning just a few simple
> setup skills along with basic fret leveling
> and dressing techniques will save you many
> hundreds of dollars in maintenance and
> repair costs over a lifetime.

> The absolute best part is that you will be
> able to take an “I love it but the action
> & frets suck” instrument and turn it
> into a pro-grade playing instrument with a
> few hours of work.

> Now, for the sake of clarification, these
> improvements will make the instrument sound
> “a bit better” but it won’t make that $125
> guitar SOUND like the $5000 guitar. It’ll
> just play like one.

> If you’d like guitar/bass/amp advice or
> guidance that’s not covered in this post,
> PLEASE FEEL FREE to send your questions to
> my personal e-mail. No charge for PE forum
> readers.

> Hope this helped,

> Paul
> Guitar Improvements LTD.

I couldn't have said it better myself, and in fact when given the opportunity, I failed miserably. Roman, I've never had a guitar that I didn't play around with the action, neck, bridge, pickups, switches, or some combination of the above. Dan Erlewine is my hero, and you can subscribe to his newsletter at <A HREF="http://www.stewmac.com">www.stewmac.com</A> , he and other luthiers send out weekly tips that are mostly repairs but there are plenty of setup tips as well. If I could afford his book, I'd have it, and when I try to get serious about setting up and repairing guitars, you can bet that I will.

I'm glad that you like your bass, I truly meant that you should pick the one you like, and it makes no difference to me if it's not the one that I suggested. Enjoy!!!!

[donparsons]

I would never have looked at a thread with this title, but I learned a thing or two, and found yet another guy on this forum willing to share his knowledge with others.

DP

> Hi guys.

> This is a bit different response based on
> all of your observations and comments.

> When reading about or doing a hands-on
> evaluation of a guitar or bass, please keep
> in mind the following :

> The factory “setup” will seldom, if ever,
> meet with your approval.

> Instruments are set-up at the factory to
> proprietary specifications that facilitates
> the fastest and least expensive (you can
> also read that as: cheapest) way to get the
> instrument from raw wood to out-the-door.
> Setups take time and (especially)in a
> production environment: TIME=$$$$$$

> Think of it like buying a new car. You have
> to adjust the seat, mirrors, steering column
> and other stuff until it’s comfortable for
> you.

> It’s the same with guitars & basses. And
> this just doesn’t apply to budget or entry
> level guitars. I’ve had to do setups on
> several brand new $3K+ that were unplayable
> right from the factory. This is especiall
> true of 2 of America's most trusted and
> famous makers. One makes extremely heavy
> mahogany & maple electrics and one makes
> the most traditional of acoustics. You'd be
> amazed!

> If buying from a local store, ask the dealer
> to have their guitar technician do a
> personalized setup as part of the buying
> agreement. What? They don’t have a tech on
> staff? WOW….I guess CG , Sam Ash etc.,
> AREN’T the godsends we thought they would
> be. Gee, and they’ve killed all the mom
> & pop shops in the process. See how
> we’re now paying for their “best-procing
> benevolence”? But that’s a rant for a
> different time.

> Also, when reading online reviews (and I’m
> putting my Nomex suit on now) PLEASE
> remember that many are written by people who
> have no technical knowledge of how an
> instrument is built or adjusted. “I’ve only
> been playing for a year” should be a red
> flag to go onto the next review. Look for
> reviews written by experienced players. But
> over-all, make your own observations and
> decisions. “Votes” are worthless…especially
> once you plunk down your hard-earned $$$$$$.

> In order to get the knowledge and
> information needed to evaluate an
> instrument, I suggest that ALL guitarists
> & bassists get a copy of Dan Erlewine’s
> “Guitar Player Repair Guide”. It’s usually
> in stock at larger book stores or search for
> it on the web .

> This book is written for the sub-novice to
> the intermediate level technician and will
> provide you ALL the basic information you
> need to make almost any instrument [that
> doesn’t have severe structural deficiencies]
> play like a top-of-the-line instrument. It
> will also instruct you on how to modify and
> maintain your instruments.

> But most importantly, it will give you
> information on how to adjust the instrument
> to YOUR personal preference.

> Can a $125 instrument be made to play like a
> $5000 instrument? YOU BET and with only
> about a $25 investment in tools (that will
> continue to serve you for decades) and a few
> bucks worth of wet/dry sandpaper, a little
> 0000 steel wool and a wothwhile INVESTMENT
> of your time. Learning just a few simple
> setup skills along with basic fret leveling
> and dressing techniques will save you many
> hundreds of dollars in maintenance and
> repair costs over a lifetime.

> The absolute best part is that you will be
> able to take an “I love it but the action
> & frets suck” instrument and turn it
> into a pro-grade playing instrument with a
> few hours of work.

> Now, for the sake of clarification, these
> improvements will make the instrument sound
> “a bit better” but it won’t make that $125
> guitar SOUND like the $5000 guitar. It’ll
> just play like one.

> If you’d like guitar/bass/amp advice or
> guidance that’s not covered in this post,
> PLEASE FEEL FREE to send your questions to
> my personal e-mail. No charge for PE forum
> readers.

> Hope this helped,

> Paul
> Guitar Improvements LTD.