Hey Pete © *PIC*

[Æ]

A few days ago I read your comments about the ND16 and the ND20 tweeters. I need good tweeter(s) for DIY coaxials. Do you think that they would make good coaxials? Or any other tweeters you can think of? I'm planning on converting some slightly older FOCAL Neoglass 6½" woofers.
Thanks

The pictures are what I have done in the past.
The white one is a PE woofer with a Boston Acoustics tweeter and the black one is a SEAS P17RCY with a VIFA tweeter. Both tweeters used have neo magnets and ferrofluid.

[j_dunavin]

wow, i gata ask, you made these yourself?? Did you just teach yourself? how did you mount them? The wiring seams easy enough.
that is cool.

[Pete Schumacher ®]

> A few days ago I read your comments about
> the ND16 and the ND20 tweeters. I need good
> tweeter(s) for DIY coaxials. Do you think
> that they would make good coaxials? Or any
> other tweeters you can think of? I'm
> planning on converting some slightly older
> FOCAL Neoglass 6½" woofers.
> Thanks

> The pictures are what I have done in the
> past.
> The white one is a PE woofer with a Boston
> Acoustics tweeter and the black one is a
> SEAS P17RCY with a VIFA tweeter. Both
> tweeters used have neo magnets and
> ferrofluid.

But either tweeter is pretty nice if you cross them high enough. 2nd order electrical at 3KHz is the minimum you'd shoot for, so if the woofer can go smoothly to 3K, you should be OK.

[blair]

Also, how do they sound? Did you get a chance to measure them?

Blair

[Max_Andrews]

[Pete Schumacher ®]

Places like photobucket are blocked here at work.

[Max_Andrews]

<A HREF="http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1767">http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1767</A>

Highish FS, but much lower distortion than the ND20 tweets, especially odd-order products. Hell, it has better third order than a seas tdfc.

Only other issue besides needing to be crossed above 3khz is that it has a squarish rear-mount flange. I don't know if it can be easily swapped into a different housing...

[Æ]

First thing you have to do is peel of (carefully) the woofer dust cap. I use woofers that have vented pole piece so that you can attach the tweeter standoff with a machine screw.
I take several precise mechanical measurements, then draw up plans for a machinist to make the standoff out of plastic, delrin etc. I glue tweeter to standoff. Poke holes and pull tinsel leads or flexible wires through cone and then attach to separate solder terminals pop riveted to the woofer frame.

[Æ]

> Also, how do they sound? Did you get a
> chance to measure them?

> Blair

The white ones sound very good. I did a custom crossover to go along with them. I had them mounted in the doors of my Honda Civic. I no longer have the Civic, but I kept the speakers.

[blair]

Kinda makes me want to do that to a fullrange driver with a whizzer cone in a TL enclosure.

Thanks,

Blair

[johnl]

Provided Link: Hammer Dynamics Loudspeaker


> Kinda makes me want to do that to a
> fullrange driver with a whizzer cone in a TL
> enclosure.

> Thanks,

> Blair

Same here. I just got in my two Pioneer B20FUs, 290-045. and two of the tiny little ND20FA-6 dome tweeters, 275-030. I would like to modify it by cutting out the cap and attaching the tweater to a modified phase plug. However, I'm not certain how to route the wire, or if the wire would hinder the acoustics of the driver.

Perhaps someone can lay it out for us.

Of course you could always go the Hammer dynamics route, but it would be a second choice for me.

[blair]

Sitting here thinking about it, I think I would actually use a removeable baffle and use a long thread binding post in place of two of the woofer mount screws. That way you don't have to damage the cone or worry about the wires changing the T/S parameters at all really. Plus if it is mounted to a piece of PVC with a few washers in the middle, all you have to do is stick it in the center like a detachable phase plug, and if you don't like it, you can always put back in a phase plug. I may be thinking way too hard about something I will never do, but it is a fun and cheap enough project I guess.

Blair

[johnl]

> First thing you have to do is peel of
> (carefully) the woofer dust cap. I use
> woofers that have vented pole piece so that
> you can attach the tweeter standoff with a
> machine screw.
> I take several precise mechanical
> measurements, then draw up plans for a
> machinist to make the standoff out of
> plastic, delrin etc. I glue tweeter to
> standoff. Poke holes and pull tinsel leads
> or flexible wires through cone and then
> attach to separate solder terminals pop
> riveted to the woofer frame.

If you have a vented pole piece, then why can't you just run your wire through that also?

[Wolf]

...will fit inside a 1.5" VC midbass. You'd have to shave the mounting holes and remove the dustcap, but it should work! I've yoyed with this myself, but haven't done it.
Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

> Same here. I just got in my two Pioneer
> B20FUs, 290-045. and two of the tiny little
> ND20FA-6 dome tweeters, 275-030. I would
> like to modify it by cutting out the cap and
> attaching the tweater to a modified phase
> plug. However, I'm not certain how to route
> the wire, or if the wire would hinder the
> acoustics of the driver.

If you pole-mount the tweeter, the offset will be substantial, and the whizzer's highs will be slightly muted. I'd "Hammer" them if it were me.
Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

The NT1 or ND20FB fits inside a 1.5" VC, so a little glue should be all you need, unless the magnet will repel it. I would take a small ring of craft felt and attach to the cone and tweeter adjacent edges for a dust-shield if required. I'd like to try it with the RS-180-4 in-car, but knocking out the phase plug could cause issues.... The RS' breakup is off-axis in most applications.
Later,
Wolf

[Æ]

> If you have a vented pole piece, then why
> can't you just run your wire through that
> also?

I use a screw up through the hole to hold things together.