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  1. #1

    Default PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Rudy. *PIC*




    ok, so not so sure about the subject, or if I spelled it right, or what they're called. But all the same I'm building the Peter Schumacher designed Prisstina variant, using the dayton RS180S / RS52 / D26NC55.

    I start the woodwork stuff tomorrow, I'm not a woodworker really so I'll be finishing them with acrylic enamel automotive (dupont) black. Buffed to a "piano finish".

    So far all I have are the solidworks assembly files, but I'll keep PE tech talk updated with the project, as well as Pete, and Rudy ofcourse.

    Happy Holidays !!! and free shipping to all.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Her and there
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    1,976

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru


    looks good, excellent driver selection as well, but maybe one more brace running vertically?

  3. #3

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru


    > looks good, excellent driver selection as
    > well, but maybe one more brace running
    > vertically? Hey not a bad idea. Thanks. I modeled the enclosure during my lunch break, and was in a bit of a hurry. Appears I forgot to include the port as well.

    I'm not much of a woodworker so I may leave it as is (with the added port ofcourse) or add the vertical brace. I'll have to ponder it tomorrow when I actually start the hard work of trying to produce an enclosure.

    I'm good at design on a computer, but not so much so when I actually have to produce the design. I'm used to machines doing the labor for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Her and there
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    1,976

    Default Re: I can relate to that!


    You're talking to a guy who laser cuts half of his projects :P
    Here's my best bracing job, with the laser's help of course: <A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/3720338...7600917485822/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/3720338...7600917485822/</A>

  5. #5

    Default Re: I can relate to that!


    > What does the crossover look like? I just happen to have all the drivers to build those.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Her and there
    Posts
    1,976

    Default Re: I can relate to that!


    These are the modula MTs. THere is a version using the seas 27TDFC (the one I used), as well as the dayton RS28a. They sound very nice!
    <A HREF="http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...t=13154&page=1">http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...t=13154&page=1</A>

  7. #7

    Default Laser's booked full


    > You're talking to a guy who laser cuts half
    > of his projects :P
    > Here's my best bracing job, with the laser's
    > help of course:
    > <A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/3720338...7600917485822/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/3720338...7600917485822/</A>

    That's nice looking man, very cool project. I dig the burnt edges and all the tounge and grove. Very cool. Bet that smelled nice running it eh?

    I was going to try running them on our Amada Gemini, but out laser's booked for the next 4 months and the shop basically runs 24/7 so it was a no go.

    I'll have to do it myself. May the speaker gods smile upon me and take mercy on a poor woodworker.

    (good to meet a fellow sheetmetal man)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    452

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru *PIC*




    > I'm not much of a woodworker so I may leave
    > it as is (with the added port ofcourse) or
    > add the vertical brace. I'll have to ponder
    > it tomorrow when I actually start the hard
    > work of trying to produce an enclosure.

    You may want to get a locking miter router bit. That will hide at least 4 of the MDF edges and improve the finish quality of the paint.

    There is also a long post over at DIYAUDIO.COM in the loudspeaker section in regards to improving the MDF edge.

  9. #9

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru

    Provided Link: Speaker Pics


    The locking miter bit is great for hard woods but the lock part of the wood breaks off when using MDF.

    You can always use a miter 45

    > You may want to get a locking miter router
    > bit. That will hide at least 4 of the MDF
    > edges and improve the finish quality of the
    > paint.

    > There is also a long post over at
    > DIYAUDIO.COM in the loudspeaker section in
    > regards to improving the MDF edge.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Ballwin, MO 38.597554, -90.547423
    Posts
    16,593
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru


    > ok, so not so sure about the subject, or if
    > I spelled it right, or what they're called.
    > But all the same I'm building the Peter
    > Schumacher designed Prisstina variant, using
    > the dayton RS180S / RS52 / D26NC55.

    > I start the woodwork stuff tomorrow, I'm not
    > a woodworker really so I'll be finishing
    > them with acrylic enamel automotive (dupont)
    > black. Buffed to a "piano finish".

    > So far all I have are the solidworks
    > assembly files, but I'll keep PE tech talk
    > updated with the project, as well as Pete,
    > and Rudy ofcourse.

    > Happy Holidays !!! and free shipping to all.

    Can't wait to hear your impressions and see the pics.


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    452

    Default Re: PRISSTINAS II, Much thanks to Peter man and Ru


    Thanks for the update...never actually used one with MDF, only hardwood and plywood.


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