Cast Woofer Mounting Kit *PIC*

[tomzarbo]

Provided Link: Linkamundo


How thick can the baffle be while using this mounting kit? The description says that it has 1 1/2" of thread length which would equal a total length of approx. 2" for the bolt adding in the un-threaded part, but then goes on to say that it works well with 1" cabinet thicknesses.
I will be using this for the HiVi SP10 sub part # 297-460. It looks like I will also need to use a washer with this so I don't tear-out the foam rubber surround in the process of mounting it like Wolf said.
Do you think this bolt will work okay, or do I need to raid my local hardware store?
TomZ

[Wolf]

> How thick can the baffle be while using this
> mounting kit? The description says that it
> has 1 1/2" of thread length which would
> equal a total length of approx. 2" for
> the bolt adding in the un-threaded part, but
> then goes on to say that it works well with
> 1" cabinet thicknesses.
> I will be using this for the HiVi SP10 sub
> part # 297-460. It looks like I will also
> need to use a washer with this so I don't
> tear-out the foam rubber surround in the
> process of mounting it like Wolf said.
> Do you think this bolt will work okay, or do
> I need to raid my local hardware store?
> TomZ

They are a pain, and don't do what you tell them. The threaded-inserts, hurricane nuts, or straight-up wood screws should be enough to hold it. I would use a black nylon washer for the piece between the woofer and screw-head. Be careful, as they may still grab and turn that foam. Typical black-oxide machine screws from Ace will be fine, and the threaded inserts are my choice for assembly. Drill and insert the inserts in the rear of the baffle, and bolt through the front. Let me know how it works, alright? I want to know the best way to mount mine. I will have double thick baffles.
Later,
Wolf

[johnastockman]

Just echoing what Wolf said...I use either hurricane nuts or threaded inserts. The inserts I install from the rear, like in the pic. Especially for a heavier driver, they won't pull out. McMaster and McFeely's have some nice coarse threaded inserts that are made for MDF. I get 'em from McFeely's. I've used the H-nuts on a number of sub drivers and haven't had any trouble with them turning or falling out. I use an unplugged drill press to get the inserts installed at a perfect 90 degrees...just turn the chuck by hand while slowly pressing on the handle. This way when you start the screw from the front, you won't have any alignment issues or cross-threading.

John A.

[tomzarbo]

Thanks Wolf and John,
I will go the threaded insert route.
Come to think of it, I have had a few problems with T-nuts in the past.
TomZ

[Wolf]

I have had a few
> problems with T-nuts in the past.
> TomZ

With your "Beast" sub. I am glad I helped jog your memory. The inserts are great, and I get mine from HD.
Later,
Wolf