Tritrix Center Channel build thread...

[lunchmoney]

5 sides glued up...



Front baffle dry fit...



Hurricane nuts on back of front baffle...



Crossover using hot glue and cardboard... sounds ghetto, but it works very well... hot glue bonds extremely well to cardboard...



Crossover glued to bottom floor with hot glue...



Walls lined with eggcrate foam... will also add stuffing later... I suppose I could have skipped the foam and just done stuffing, but I had plenty of foam lying around and not much stuffing... plus I like how the foam helps keep the stuffing in place and away from the drivers...



Front baffle glued on...



Sanded up the seams, then 1/4" round over on the top and bottom edges, and 2 coats of shellac...



More to follow...

[tubbsbright]

Your workshop looks like a class 10 cleanroom :|....

[lunchmoney]

Done.

(actually finished last weekend, just got around to posting this pic today)



Went with black so that it's not too visually distracting, since it's directly under the TV... high WAF factor too.

Very happy with it, definite upgrade over Definitive Technologies ProCenter 2 I'd been using.

Highly recommended for a center channel on a budget.

As always thanks to everyone who helped with this.

[Fred T]

Nice work lunch.

[Lespaul20]

lunch -

What kind of finish is that? Any texture? I'm working on my tri-trix right now. Just put on a coat of primer. I can't decided on adding texture to minimize and imperfections or just using a flat black.

[lunchmoney]

lunch -

What kind of finish is that? Any texture? I'm working on my tri-trix right now. Just put on a coat of primer. I can't decided on adding texture to minimize and imperfections or just using a flat black.

Go for a non-textured paint... I just think it just looks much better, and shows some real craftsmanship when done right.

I would add a couple more layers of primer (if using rattle can primer, I always do at least 3 layers)

Ideally, wait about 8 minutes between primer coats (you're first coat is already dry, but that's ok... you can still add more coats), and then wait at least 8 hours for the paint to cure before sanding... then sand with 320 grit (dry, not wet!)... doing this will work wonders to even out some imperfections...

If you still have noticeable imperfections after sanding the primer, fill them with 3M Spot Putty (you can also use bondo, but this stuff is much easier for tiny imperfections)... then sand and primer again... rinse and repeat until you're satisfied... this is the exact process I use.



When painting, wait about 8 minutes between coats, with the can about 8-10 inches away... 3-4 LIGHT coats, not heavy... expect that the first coat will NOT completely cover... lay down each light coat AND THEN WALK AWAY... if you try to get achieve full coverage with one coat, you WILL get drips.

If you want a bit of light texture to help hide tiny imperfection, try this: do one more coat, holding the can about 2 feet away... the paint will dry slightly in the air before it lands, and result in a very light texture... it's a nice effect... this is also done if the paint looks to glossy for you... but you're using flat black, so that's no issue.

And most importantly: Patience, young Skywalker... YOU CANNOT RUSH PAINTING... take your time, and do it right... the results will be very rewarding...