Don't let this happen to you

[jliedeka]

Last night I assembled the PE BR-1S kit. I put everything together without testing first. That includes hot gluing in the crossover and caulking the woofers. When I hooked them up to my receiver, the left speaker worked but not the right.

There was nothing to do but disassemble the non-working speaker. In the course of prying out the woofer, I broke one of the speaker terminals which I forgot to screw back down. Removing the crossover was fun. I was able to get it out using a hair dryer and a putty knife. I had to stop in the middle of that because I knocked over my beer with the hair dryer cord.

So anyway, I take it apart. The solder joints look fine. I test what I can with a continuity tester. Everything was fine. Turns out I wasn't getting any voltage on the right channel of my old receiver. I should have checked that first. D'oh!

By the way, is there a drop in replacement for the terminal cup for a BR-1S? I'm using an alligator clip for the moment.

Jim

[cole1]

. I had to stop in the middle of that because I knocked over my beer with the hair dryer cord.

I will be damn sure not to let that happen to me

[davepellegrene]

What kind of beer was it?

[brianpowers27]

I've always figured that the best way to learn s by making tons of mistakes. Just don't spill the beer on the speeks.

Side note: If you build tower speakers, someone will put there beer on them. Don't go all shellac since the alcohol will ruin the finish.

[charlielaub]

Crap! If I went through that same experience and then found out it was the receiver, that is when it would be sent flying through the window to the street below!!! Wow, I am not kidding, that would really have sent me through the roof.

I think that this is why separated are a better approach (versus the all in one receiver), since you can swap out components, add/change/delete components, etc. easily and this makes for a good way to test for problems.

Also, it is always a good idea to check for loose connections when there is no sound or something funny with the sound (e.g. drououts/distortion). That is now step one in my book as I have found this to solve a few problems for me in the past.

-Charlie

[brianp]

By the way, is there a drop in replacement for the terminal cup for a BR-1S? I'm using an alligator clip for the moment.

Jim

One of THESE oughta fit:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...TOKEN=57934395

Long time ago, Rat Shack carried such items. Dunno if they still do. Worth checking, though.

[gorbs]

what a god darn travesty .... beer running afoul due to electrical appliance entanglement.

i have had those days and sorry to hear about your misfortune with your speaker project. at least you get a new receiver out of it !!

[johnastockman]

Last night I assembled the PE BR-1S kit. I put everything together without testing first. That includes hot gluing in the crossover and caulking the woofers. When I hooked them up to my receiver, the left speaker worked but not the right.

There was nothing to do but disassemble the non-working speaker. In the course of prying out the woofer, I broke one of the speaker terminals which I forgot to screw back down. Removing the crossover was fun. I was able to get it out using a hair dryer and a putty knife. I had to stop in the middle of that because I knocked over my beer with the hair dryer cord.

So anyway, I take it apart. The solder joints look fine. I test what I can with a continuity tester. Everything was fine. Turns out I wasn't getting any voltage on the right channel of my old receiver. I should have checked that first. D'oh!

By the way, is there a drop in replacement for the terminal cup for a BR-1S? I'm using an alligator clip for the moment.

Jim

I just checked my BR-1 and the overall diameter is 2 15/16" and the cut-out hole is 1 7/8". This one looks to have the same dimensions, but not the same terminals/binding posts as the stock BR-1:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-294

This one has the binding posts like my original BR-1 cup:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=269-376

That first one has the little spring clips, but the second one is closest to the binding post style stocker. Be aware that part #269-376 says it needs a 2" cut-out, which is a bit bigger than the stock opening. It seems the only terminal cups that have the right cut-out size are those spring clip ones.

John A.

[jliedeka]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The beer was a Spotted Cow. Luckily I only lost about 1/3 of the bottle but that's still too much.

I think I'm going to get a close-out NAD T-744 to replace the old Yamaha. On paper it's a little underpowered but it should be plenty for a little used bedroom system.

I thought it was weird that I had a bad channel in the receiver. I used it for over 10 years without a problem. Since I replaced it with a Marantz, it's just been sitting on a shelf in my bedroom waiting for speakers. Guessing I made a mistake on the first soldering job I've done in a long time seemed like the right assumption.

Jim

[john trials]

I had a similar experience with an electric clothes dryer. It spun, but no heat. I tore it apart, thinking it was the heater coils or the thermal safety switches (I think there were 3 total).

The problem turned out to be the circuit breaker in my house. It was 220VAC, but was only putting out 110VAC on one leg and 0VAC on the other. I wasted a lot of time and effort, but learned a lesson!

[Dirk]

The beer was a Spotted Cow. Luckily I only lost about 1/3 of the bottle but that's still too much.

LOL. That told me you were a fellow Wisconsinite before I even glanced up at your profile. ;-)