I am Jack's sense of accomplishment

[Dirk]

This was the first time we had a weekend in the 60's since, well, September, I think.

So I was able to put the first layer of plywood on my cabs. Glued them down with PVA, band clamps between the ribs and then 1-1/2" brads about every 2 inches. I would already have the 2nd layer of plywood on the sides, but I only have 5 wratchet straps and I was making sure the glue was fully set before I moved onto the other cab.

I should be fretting over my front baffle construction before long!

[brianpowers27]

Dirk,

I have looked at the curved cabs and thought they would be very challenging! Is this your first go round with curves?

[Dirk]

Dirk,

I have looked at the curved cabs and thought they would be very challenging! Is this your first go round with curves?

It is indeed my first time. After doing a test-fit with the cabinet standing vertically, I came to the conclusion that I was probably best off to lay it on its side and only try to glue one side at a time. It did limit me to one cab per day, though.

Really, though, I don't think it'll be a whole lot more difficult than executing a good square box. Most of the hard stuff was just in the planning. I think I made 4 different mockups in SketchUp just trying to decide on joinery techniques.

There's definitely going to be a load of sanding by the time I'm done. The bendable plywood is pretty ugly. That's luan for ya, I guess.

[Dirk]

Does anybody think I should add more bracing? The curved walls will be 3/4", comprised of 2 layers of 3/8" plywood laminated together with a healthy dose of rolled-on wood glue.

[johnnyrichards]

+2... One point for the curved cabinets and one point for the Fight Club reference.

[tomzarbo]

Nope, I think you will have a plenty sturdy cabinet. I'm sure you're aware by now how much stiffness the curve adds to the side walls, I think you'll be good. Nice looking job, by the way!
TomZ

[brianpowers27]

Nope, I think you will have a plenty sturdy cabinet. I'm sure you're aware by now how much stiffness the curve adds to the side walls, I think you'll be good. Nice looking job, by the way!
TomZ

I am wondering if 2 plys for the outside is necessary...

[Dirk]

I am wondering if 2 plys for the outside is necessary...

I'm thinking a big yes. It's only 3/8", and since the plys run in the same direction, it's definitely not as rigid as regular 1/4" ply where the layers are tangential. I gave the cab a good rap of the knuckles and it's got some ring to it. We'll see what the 2nd layer does.

[brianpowers27]

i am jack's sense of hope.

[Dirk]

i am jack's sense of hope.

LOL. I thought about sloping the top of the speaker to keep stuff from being set on them, but I got realistic about my woodworking skills...

This will be my first time veneering beyond PE peel-and-stick vinyl, too.

[Eric.DeYoung]

What kind of veneer do you plan on using? I might suggest paper back if it is your first time with veneer, my experience with some figured maple has been a bit of a learning experience I will suggest the Better Bond Cold Press glue:

http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...9a4508ed035777

I've used it on my raw veneer and I've been pretty happy with it as long as you have ample clamping pressure - however on second thought I'm not sure if you'll be able to get sufficient clamping pressure on those curved sides.

[martyh]

Can I assume we're putting our Tang Bands and X25's in there? Because that cabinet might just be a little overkill...or maybe not.

[Dirk]

No, Marty, these will be the home for a pair of RS225's, a CSS FR125SR and some yet-to-be-determined small faceplate tweeter. Tentatively. We'll see how the FR125SR's measure. I'm hopeful, but there were some real horror stories regarding unit consistency when they first came out.

[critofur]

How about this tweeter:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=279-450

[Dirk]

That's actually my leading candidate! There's a small sniggle in its frequency response between 3-4khz, but I'm thinking of crossing around 3.5khz and I might be able to tweak it out. The price is certainly right.

I *was* going to go with the ND20FB but it would have caused me all sorts of headaches with a 1.5" front baffle.

If I decide against the "PeeViPhany", the next most likely choice is the Vifa DQ25.

[tombond]

This was the first time we had a weekend in the 60's since, well, September, I think.

So I was able to put the first layer of plywood on my cabs. Glued them down with PVA, band clamps between the ribs and then 1-1/2" brads about every 2 inches. I would already have the 2nd layer of plywood on the sides, but I only have 5 wratchet straps and I was making sure the glue was fully set before I moved onto the other cab.

I should be fretting over my front baffle construction before long!

I am Jack's Raging Jealousy!

And....... I haven't seen speakers like that since Grade School.

[tombond]

That's actually my leading candidate! There's a small sniggle in its frequency response between 3-4khz, but I'm thinking of crossing around 3.5khz and I might be able to tweak it out. The price is certainly right.

I *was* going to go with the ND20FB but it would have caused me all sorts of headaches with a 1.5" front baffle.

If I decide against the "PeeViPhany", the next most likely choice is the Vifa DQ25.

I would spend the extra couple of dollars and go for the DQ25, I'm liking it so far in my Satori project.

[brianpowers27]

That's actually my leading candidate! There's a small sniggle in its frequency response between 3-4khz, but I'm thinking of crossing around 3.5khz and I might be able to tweak it out. The price is certainly right.

I *was* going to go with the ND20FB but it would have caused me all sorts of headaches with a 1.5" front baffle.

If I decide against the "PeeViPhany", the next most likely choice is the Vifa DQ25.

I foudn that mounting the nd20db was a breeze. I just had to make sure to machine the baffle beforesealing it to the cabinet. I hand drilled the 1.375" hole and the lsop was enough to make it fit. I then used the good old straight router bit on the backside and got as sloppy as I needed, since no one would ever see it...

You could also use the rabbit bit.

[Dirk]

A quick note for anyone doing multiple-layer curve lamination:

Make sure that each successive layer you put on is longer than the one before it. Not because the radius of the curve is greater (though that's part of it), but because otherwise the wratchet-straps don't snug the pieces together as well. You need to have a good bit of overhang to make sure that you have maximum clamping force at the very edge. I can post a pic if anyone is curious.

I'll make sure to fix this oversight on cabinet #2...

[martyh]

No, Marty, these will be the home for a pair of RS225's, a CSS FR125SR and some yet-to-be-determined small faceplate tweeter. Tentatively. We'll see how the FR125SR's measure. I'm hopeful, but there were some real horror stories regarding unit consistency when they first came out.

Now D-Man, we gotta have nice cabs and by the looks of it that should be just about enough...