I was given some little Infinity speakers that I want to totally rebuild. The interior dimensions of the box are: 10 5/16" tall, 6 3/16" wide and 5 1/2" deep. The woofer cutout is 4 7/8" in diameter and the tweeter cutout is 1 15/16" in diameter. The distance between the edges of the holes is 1 1/8".
I figure that gives about 351 cu. in. or 5.75 liters in volume and the box is sealed.
Has anyone out there designed a speaker this small? Which drivers did you use?
If you are willing to rebuild the baffle, the Vifa coaxials at the top of the page would be a nice little project. There is a crossover schematic on the site as well. They are a 4" woofer, so a little smaller.
Or, you could throw a Dayton Classic 5.25" 4 ohm round frame woofer and a Dayton 1-1/8" neo tweet in there. A crossover for that would be relatively simple to design and build, and both drivers should fit fairly decently in there.
I think I have a good starting point for a crossover. Modeled with Jantzen 18 gauge air coil inductors. Might need some slight tweaking, but it would make a nice, affordable all purpose speaker.
In sealed 5.75 liters, it will have a system "Q" of a little over 0.7. A little stuffing will bring it even closer. F3 would be 100 Hz so integration with a sub might be a little tricky but not impossible. These would be dandy desktop speakers.
I was given some little Infinity speakers that I want to totally rebuild. The interior dimensions of the box are: 10 5/16" tall, 6 3/16" wide and 5 1/2" deep. The woofer cutout is 4 7/8" in diameter and the tweeter cutout is 1 15/16" in diameter. The distance between the edges of the holes is 1 1/8".
I figure that gives about 351 cu. in. or 5.75 liters in volume and the box is sealed.
Has anyone out there designed a speaker this small? Which drivers did you use?
I designed the "Antigens" for Turn2, a fellow poster. You can find the brief picture explanation and such by searching the forum, my photobucket below, and Turn2's build-thread.
I don't know if they're the same speakers, but might be.
Good luck!
Wolf
"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith "We don't just make a crossover, we make a statement!" - Lawrence Fishburne for Cadillac
How about the Seas W12CY003? WinISD says that it should be used in a vented box (EBP is really high) but COULD it be used in a sealed box and if so, would it work in the box I have?
Re = 5.5
Le = 0.41
Fs = 60
Vas = 4 L
Qms = 2.3
Qes = 0.44
Qts = 0.36
SPL = 85.5
How about the Seas W12CY003? WinISD says that it should be used in a vented box (EBP is really high) but COULD it be used in a sealed box and if so, would it work in the box I have?
Re = 5.5
Le = 0.41
Fs = 60
Vas = 4 L
Qms = 2.3
Qes = 0.44
Qts = 0.36>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>this can be changed to .445 or .48 by adding a resistor
SPL = 85.5
If you add the resistor it models nicely a q of .71 and a f3 of 95 in a 4 liter box. it needs a 2 ohm 50 watt resistor for that result. or a 3 ohm 50watt resistor will get a f3 of 88 in a 4.5 liter box.
I come up with a box size of 2.4 liter and a box size of 3.1 liter when I put in the higher qts created by adding the resister. but remember the driver has volume so I feel that 4 liter and 4.5 liter are about right.
That is close enough to your box size to try the resistor mod.
You gain deeper bass f3's of 95 or 88 with the added resistor the tradeoff is volume is lost. You also do not need to build a new box. the resistor is placed right at the positive lead of the woofer. This is a variation of Daryl's idea a forum member. I use 50 watt resistors true overkill. 24 watts would most likely be okay
I use resistance as a tool to fit spaces and boxes that I want to reuse.