How to "Print" an enclosure... Question

[WWWJD]

So, in our efforts to make the best stuff out there, we just dropped 30k on a 3D printer for rapid prototyping. (insert evil laugh here).

For smaller enclosures, this thing shows mucho promise. The build material is ABS plastic, and it'll lay down a model accurate to a few thousandths. Maximum part size is something like 12x12x15 on the model we had made. The only problem is the cost for a part. For a 100% solidity in the material, you'll pay $4 per cubic inch.

The machine will also do crosshatch/honeycomb fill, with outer wall thickness of around a 1/10th of an inch to save on material. For this honeycomb material, I'm thinking I would still need a wall thickness of at least 1/2" for rigidity. Thoughts or recommendations for a first stab at this?

[djg]

It's mindboggling.

[moose404]

I would take a look at how the honeycomb flat plates are made, and try to mimic that in the walls. If you are not familiar with them they use an open honeycomb and laminate thin solid sheets on either side. Sometimes another honeycomb and then sheet is added on top. This is the best way to maximize strength while minimizing material.

[WWWJD]

I guess my biggest concern in doing this is resonance issues because of the ABS... however, this method of construction also affords me an effortless ability to do complex shapes which would step up rigidity... so it may actually be a break-even.

[Ryan_M]

AMAZING!!!

I guess my biggest concern in doing this is resonance issues because of the ABS... however, this method of construction also affords me an effortless ability to do complex shapes which would step up rigidity... so it may actually be a break-even.

What about designing the walls so a filler can be poured in like epoxy or something?

[shawn_a]

What about designing the walls so a filler can be poured in like epoxy or something?

Exactly what I was thinking. This is the way I would attack the issue. I would just be careful about filler choices when it comes to know how it will react with the ABS. Some epoxies can be quite exothermal while curing and plastics generally don't like an overabundance of heat. Might end up with some Salvador Dali looking speaker boxes when it's all said and done.

shawn

[johnnyrichards]

That rapid prototyping has come a ways. I went and watched a 3D printer like that a few years ago, and it just sprayed ink on cornstarch, making multiple passes. The other printer they had used some type of plastic vapor, and a pair of lasers. Where the lasers crossed poof! a piece of plastic. Neat-O.

I bet you could get as many orders for small projects as Nick gets for big ones. If I send you the CAD file, you could make me pods for my car doors!

[mrp]

I've seen this before and it is very cool. I thought they used some sort of corn starch mixture? My senior year English teacher had a ball bearing and nut/bolt "plot" that used to sit on her desk. The ball bearing actually worked and I used to sit there and play with it during class. I asked her how they were made and all she said was that they were "printed out" and gave a brief explanation on how it worked. Quite amazing.

[Max_Andrews]

You can definitely do it, but it will take forever and will be quite expensive. A 12x12x12 box will likely take 20 hours to print...

What might be a better solution would be to print one honeycombed thin box, then use it as tooling to make a mold so that you can make multiple boxes out of concrete or resin. You could also make a lay-up mold for composites

[WWWJD]

What might be a better solution would be to print one honeycombed thin box, then use it as tooling to make a mold so that you can make multiple boxes out of concrete or resin. You could also make a lay-up mold for composites

I had actually just considered this route a few minutes ago.. except I think to save on expense and time even further, perhaps just let it print the baffle with a wire frame attached for fiber glassing the rest of the enclosure..

freakin' possibilities are endless. I need to arrive at a final shape, and get the concepts over to a buddy in engineering so he can put it to a SLA file..

[Max_Andrews]

oooh, a wireframe mold for composite layups would be awesome! You could do any organic shape you want!

[rogoll]

AMAZING!!!


What about designing the walls so a filler can be poured in like epoxy or something?

My thoughts as well...

[nick29498141]

Awesome.



NK

[lunchmoney]

As an Industrial Designer, I work with FDM (fused deposition modeling) machines like the one you're describing all the time... we've had one in our office for about 6 years...

Bear in mind that you'll need to need to be able clean the support material out of any negative spaces... if it's the "break-away" kind of support material, you'll need to be able to break it out... if it's the soluble kind of support, that's easier, but the dissolved material still needs to be able to drain away.

Also remember that it will have a grain to it, and is weaker along the grain... I would coat them with MEK or Acrylic solvent after they're done building... this helps fuse the layers together and makes them much stronger, as well as airtight... otherwise the layers could start splitting on you...

Unless you get some kind of deal, building cabinets would be monstrously expensive... remember that height is the enemy on these builds, in terms of time and cost.... hopefully you can lay the cabinets on their side...

Also, any round features (i.e. screw holes) ideally want to face up in the machine for the most accuracy.

Let me know if I can help... I've worked a lot with these machines, and have Jedi Knight status in CAD ... I'd be VERY curious to see how these come out.

[john trials]

A complete cabinet would be expensive, but making a 'shapely' baffle or an oddly shaped port tube/flare would be a pretty cool project. They probably won't help much in the auditory sense, but for aesthetics, it could be very interesting.

I've only designed for a 3D printer once in my career...the fun part is the ability to make prototypes that cannot be machined, or even molded. You can make some very intricate parts.

[philiparcario]

A complete cabinet would be expensive, but making a 'shapely' baffle or an oddly shaped port tube/flare would be a pretty cool project. They probably won't help much in the auditory sense, but for aesthetics, it could be very interesting.

I've only designed for a 3D printer once in my career...the fun part is the ability to make prototypes that cannot be machined, or even molded. You can make some very intricate parts.

you could make a front baffle with a flared ported built into it. the pe box baffle for the curved boxes would be nice in a one piece with port.

[lunchmoney]

A complete cabinet would be expensive, but making a 'shapely' baffle or an oddly shaped port tube/flare would be a pretty cool project. They probably won't help much in the auditory sense, but for aesthetics, it could be very interesting.

I've only designed for a 3D printer once in my career...the fun part is the ability to make prototypes that cannot be machined, or even molded. You can make some very intricate parts.

+1

I would cry if I saw an FDM enclosure that was a boring box... take advantage of the technology.

WWWJD, let me know if you need any help in CAD.

[DougP]

That's cool.
We (Grinnell College) just recently got one of these:
http://www.zcorp.com/en/Products/3D-...450/spage.aspx

I don't do much with the 3D files but I am the one who runs the printer for everyone. I would love to play with speaker stuff on it but I am not going to even ask at this point, it's just to busy at the moment.

The zprint uses a plaster like materiel with a water based binder. After it has cured the piece is finished by infusing it with a very thin super glue. The finished parts are very strong and it also "prints" in full color. The cost is also high at about $3.50 a cubic inch.
Doug