Ported Tritrix center Channel

[joeybutts]

So today I started to whip up my ported Tritrix center channel build.

I bought the drivers a while back from some one on the forum (sorry I forgot your name!) and am planning on picking up the crossover parts in about 10 days. So I tore apart a previous car enclosure that was lying around and used that wood for this.

It's 1/2" MDF, but I left the Tritrix enclosure the same external dimensions as in the plans and threw in a brace and the binding post plate will be bumped in to the enclosure, so I figured it would balance out for the most part.

I just picked up an air compressor and brad nailer and wow, it cut down the building time about 75%. It is AWESOME. Just thought I would throw that in there.

Pics.
Panels.


Side Baffles glued.


Brace in.


Top on.



One question for someone who knows. The plans call for a 2" port 6.5" long. Is that butted to the rear baffle or flush with the rear baffle?

[lunchmoney]

looking good so far!

make the port flush with the outside of the rear panel

[joeybutts]

Thanks Lunch!

Do I need to roundover the port opening?

[lunchmoney]

Thanks Lunch!

Do I need to roundover the port opening?

No. The port is large enough in diameter that it's not necessary. I did a small roundover for aesthetic reasons, but it's not necessary.

Another brace or two in there wouldn't hurt. Even just one oak dowel brace going from top to bottom in the center of your largest unsupported areas there wouldn't be a bad idea.

[joeybutts]

Sounds good. Hoping to pick up the PVC and oak today to finish this up structurally.

[lunchmoney]

You also have Tritrix mains, right?

You're going to love this as a center... I have the very same setup (only my center is smaller and sealed), and it's really nice.... having the center match the mains makes a world of difference.

[joeybutts]

No, I have D8's, but they are the same line of drivers, DC200s and DC28F.... so hopefully the timbre's will match well.... thought about going with a D3 but liked Curt's design for a center a bit better.....

[Dirk]

Good call, Joey. The 5.25" will give cleaner midrange, and that's pretty much exactly what you want from a center.

[joeybutts]

YES! My noobishness is wearing away! Only took 2 or so years.....

I'm excited and apprehensive at the same time. I really like my D8's WITHOUT the center, so I'm eager to hear how things change with the center. I know some guys out there are 2 speaker front stage guys for HT.....I'm in the middle right now, but part of that may be that I have not had a center for the about 2 years I have had the D8's.

Just going to have to see.....

[joeybutts]

I'm hoping to get some work done tonight on this concerning the binding post recess and front baffle.

On a side note, I was thinking the Tritrix TM's would be nice for surrounds. I can't seem to find where the port goes or how long it is. I see that he used an adjustable, but I was just going to use between a 1" and 2" piece of PVC for the port. Thanks for any help!

[MrkCrwly]

I'm hoping to get some work done tonight on this concerning the binding post recess and front baffle.

On a side note, I was thinking the Tritrix TM's would be nice for surrounds. I can't seem to find where the port goes or how long it is. I see that he used an adjustable, but I was just going to use between a 1" and 2" piece of PVC for the port. Thanks for any help!

I was also thinking about TriTrix TM's for surrounds but I think it was cheaper to get the PE's RD kit and just build MTM's. Would 5 matched speakers in a theater make any difference?

[joeybutts]

I may go that route actually. I already have D8 mains, and these would allow me to replace my used Dc130s and build TM's.....hmmmm....good point...

EDIT: NEvermind. Parts don't matchup between the destroyer kit and the TM's.....

[curt_c]

I'm hoping to get some work done tonight on this concerning the binding post recess and front baffle.

On a side note, I was thinking the Tritrix TM's would be nice for surrounds. I can't seem to find where the port goes or how long it is. I see that he used an adjustable, but I was just going to use between a 1" and 2" piece of PVC for the port. Thanks for any help!

I put the port on the back behind the tweeter, although it has been demonstrated that there is 'just' enough room to front port as well.
Try a 1 3/8" x 5.5" port or 1 1/2" x 6.5" port.

C

[joeybutts]

Thanks for the input Curt. I may try them on the front so as to not need to space them from the back wall....

[joeybutts]

I may go that route actually. I already have D8 mains, and these would allow me to replace my used Dc130s and build TM's.....hmmmm....good point...

EDIT: NEvermind. Parts don't matchup between the destroyer kit and the TM's.....

This.

[joeybutts]

Haven't had a chance to post the pics, but last night got the binding post plate cut, got the binding post recess cutout and sanded, and the basic form of the front baffle is done. That took some time to do, but went a lot quicker than the towers.

Tomorrow glue together the front baffle, finish binding post recess/plate, recess and cutout driver holes on baffle, glue it all up! Then just need the crossover parts, and do the finish.

Will the crossover parts for this speaker easily fit through the driver cutouts?

[curt_c]

Will the crossover parts for this speaker easily fit through the driver cutouts?

If you size the crossover board appropriately, yes they will.

[joeybutts]

Should have posted these a long time ago.

[joeybutts]

Some more.

[lunchmoney]

Looks good.

I'd do some more bracing.

At the very least I'd stick a simple brace behind the tweeter connecting the top and bottom panels... you've got some pretty large unsupported areas there.