RSS265HF-4 10 inch sub project

[ozob]

Greetings All,

First post, so let me first thank you for the fine information presented here. Many of my questions about DIY projects have already been addressed through the sharing of your expertise.

I've been researching amplifiers for subwoofers, and I would like some confirmation that I am on the right track.

I've purchased a Dayton RSS265HF-4 10 inch sub that I am intending (for the moment) to place in a small sealed cabinet of about 1 cubic foot. The goal is to have a sub with very good sound quality for listening to music (primarily) and for use in watching movies (secondary). I live in a high-rise so the presence of neighbors precludes me from running amok with with low frequency effects, and I tend to tone things down on that front.

From another thread, (http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=217322) I've learned that this driver may display 'oil can popping' in a small sealed box, so I will probably install the ScanSpeak AP vent to address that.

For a cabinet I will either do a 1 cu ft PE box or perhaps have one built to the same size.

That leaves the amp. I like the concept of the amp having some PEQ functions, so I've been looking at the O-Audio 500W Bash, which seems to be generally well liked. I am also considering, and leaning towards, the Reckhorn A403 because of the PEQ features and of its rack-mount design. PE also has a rack-mount, with similar features, but more reported power. I think the rack-mounts provide me with a little more flexibility in room placement (power outlet location limitations). I suppose I could build a box for housing a plate amp and use it as an outboard to achieve the desired flexibility, but that would seem to be a less tidy approach (spouse factor cannot be ignored, also a factor in the smallish 1 cu ft box).

BTW, the plan is to use this sub with a pair of MarkK's ER18DXT that I will be constructing first. I'm thinking I will build them vented, and then determine where to cross them over to the sub. I will hold off on the final sub design until I've got them up and running.

I've seen favorable comments regarding earlier generations of Reckhorn amp here. I guess my potential concern is regarding power. My gut says it should be plenty for my application, but I also like the idea of having plenty of overhead.

Any comments? Does this feel like it is on the right track? Anything to avoid?

Regards.

[philiparcario]

My older model reckhorn is still working fine with a dayton rss390hf-4 as an IB.. I have an a-400

[Mayhem13]

1 cuft is a bit small for the 265, i'd go with 1.5 cuft. While the Bash500 does offer a very nice feature set for a sealed sub, it's also capable of burning up the 265 so please, be carefull. Since your quest doesn't include the really low stuff, an SA240 should suffice.

[lunchmoney]

I built exactly that sub, in a 1 cu ft sealed enclosure, with a Dayton SA240B plate amp (the "with boost" version).

Using it for home theater and occasional music.

Very happy with it.

[jclin4]

I built exactly that sub, in a 1 cu ft sealed enclosure, with a Dayton SA240B plate amp (the "with boost" version).

Using it for home theater and occasional music.

Very happy with it.

I have been considering a sub like Lunchmoney's with the SA240 boost version amp, but with the RSS265HO-4 (High Output) version in stead. My thinking was that HO version would do better in a sealed box. But in a 1cu. ft. box, does it matter?

I modeled both HF and HO drivers with the 240-B plate amp below, first HO then HF. Both response curves look similar, but I notice that the HF has slightly higher sensitivity.

Also the HF has Qtc of .7 vs .5 for HO. Does this make the HF a better choice? (not to mention it is $20 cheaper until this Friday )

[jclin4]

I forgot to add that my putative sub would be used for music only. I've read that speaker designers often shoot for a Qtc of .707.

With that in mind, does the RSS265HF-4 make for a better sub in a sealed 1 cu. ft. enclosure?

[johnddaugherty]

A lower Qtc will (usually) result in a more gradual roll off and superior transient response, a slightly higher F3, but a lower F10.

[Mayhem13]

The desired rolloff and Q of the system as a design variable have a lot to do with the room as well and should be planned for accordingly. Small spaces usually produce quite a bit of gain in the lowest prt of the FR..below 50hz otr so. A small high Q sealed sub in a closed 10x15 ft room usualyy flattens out and them some to the amps filter Q. In a bigger or open space the low end gets 'sucked up' so to speak where there's little to no available gain. If it's a small closed space, i say shoot for a high Q which goes a long way towards power handling controlling cone movement via the air spring of the smaller sealed enclosure. I still like .5Q for music so i'll stick with the 1.5cuft recommendation.......

[jclin4]

Mayhem and JD, thanks, your comments are helpful. The lower Qtc and better transient response of the HO version seems more in line with my goals, so for now I think I will hold off on buying the HF subwoofer.

To the OP, apologies; I didn't mean to hijack your thread but we seem to be building similar subs. From the comments made, all of your options include plenty of power. Maybe if you went with less power, e.g. 240 watts, you might even avoid the oil can popping issue and the need for a AP vent.

[ozob]

To the OP, apologies; I didn't mean to hijack your thread but we seem to be building similar subs. From the comments made, all of your options include plenty of power. Maybe if you went with less power, e.g. 240 watts, you might even avoid the oil can popping issue and the need for a AP vent.

I had the same questions myself. I was attracted to the HO version myself because of the potential for a smaller cabinet. THAT means I would probably have to build one from scratch, and as a high-rise dweller that means I've got no 'shop' or most of the necessary tools. I live in downtown Chicago. Belly of the beast. I could farm it out I suppose, but that only increases my costs. Based on my novice usage of WinID, and my intended use, I think the RSS265HF-4 in a 1 cu ft (or perhaps 1.5 as suggested here) will make for a better match with MarkK's ER18DXT that I will be constructing.

I am pretty curious what the impact of the ScanSpeak AP vent will have on things. The Madisound catalog says it will have the effect of increasing the apparent size of the box by about 20%. I may spend some time fiddling with it. Maybe others have some relevant experience with it.

I have no actual experience with any of these things, but I will be finding out shortly. I received a pile of boxes from PE and Madisound today. My router should show up in a day or so. I haven't used one of those since junior high shop class, so I guess I will be having all kinds of new experiences later this week.

I'm still leaning toward the Reckhorn as a rack mount. I looked at some photos of the O Audio and decided I could probably tear it down and reconfigure it as a rack mount, with controls on front and connections on the back, but I don't need any additional projects at the moment.

[ozob]

To the OP, apologies; I didn't mean to hijack your thread but we seem to be building similar subs. From the comments made, all of your options include plenty of power. Maybe if you went with less power, e.g. 240 watts, you might even avoid the oil can popping issue and the need for a AP vent.

I had the same questions myself. I was attracted to the HO version myself because of the potential for a smaller cabinet. THAT means I would probably have to build one from scratch, and as a high-rise dweller that means I've got no 'shop' or most of the necessary tools. I live in downtown Chicago. Belly of the beast. I could farm it out I suppose, but that only increases my costs. Based on my novice usage of WinID, and my intended use, I think the RSS265HF-4 in a 1 cu ft (or perhaps 1.5 as suggested here) will make for a better match with MarkK's ER18DXT that I will be constructing.

I am pretty curious what the impact of the ScanSpeak AP vent will have on things. The Madisound catalog says it will have the effect of increasing the apparent size of the box by about 20%. I may spend some time fiddling with it. Maybe others have some relevant experience with it.

I have no actual experience with any of these things, but I will be finding out shortly. I received a pile of boxes from PE and Madisound today. My router should show up in a day or so. I haven't used one of those since junior high shop class, so I guess I will be having all kinds of new experiences later this week.

I'm still leaning toward the Reckhorn as a rack mount. I looked at some photos of the O Audio and decided I could probably tear it down and reconfigure it as a rack mount, with controls on front and connections on the back, but I don't need any additional projects at the moment.

[jclin4]

Cheers! I was a former denizen of the Lakeview and Bucktown neighborhoods, but that was many years ago

I'm debating whether to build or buy the cab. But, PE makes it pretty easy with the driver cutout ready for the RSS265 and the rear panel cutout for the SA240.



I'm not crazy about the finish, but maybe it can be refinished by sanding down the 3 coats of enamel paint. However, with the 1/4" roundovers, applying a veneer would be problematic...

[ozob]

As I move ahead with this sealed 1 cu ft box, RSS265HF-4 10 in subwoofer and the scanspeak AP vent, what should I line and or stuff the box with? I seem to recall a 'general rule' along the lines of stuff a sealed box and line a vented one. Is that reasonable?

Regards

[bill poster]

What is the "oil can popping" referring to in the thread starter?

[bolland83]

The RSS265HF and SA240B are a great combo, check out the "au-rock-o sub" link in my signature below. I'm running it sealed and haven't had any issues with "oil canning". I think that was only an issue on the 12" version, and as far as I know has been resolved. I would think about maybe using this cabinet for a nicer finish. If you ask nicely, you may be able to ship the baffles to someone on the board to have them cutout.

[killa]

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker...0-sub-kit.html

[Whitneyville1]

FWIW, it look like I "volunteered" myself to build my apartment dweller friend a sub. I'm looking at the RSS265HF-4 in about 50 liters (1.5 cu.ft.) sealed and a Dayton 250 watt plate amp (with switchable 6dB boost). I will over-build the enclosure with a 1 1/2" baffle and excessive bracing because it works. This looks more "musical" at the expense of some power and F3. Messing around in WinISD PRO and changing stuff around, I got over 110dB peak SPL over a 20+ Hz range "where it counts" IMO. That'll run out half of the people in Carl's building.

[bolland83]

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker...0-sub-kit.html

Nice kit! just need a few clamps and some glue, do your own finish, I like it.