Active Bookshelf Speaker build RS-180 & DC28FS

[anunnaki]

So I wanted to do a set of bookshelf speakers on the cheap, yet deliver reasonably good performance. I have a Behringer DC2496 that is only taking care of a sub right now, as well as extra amplifier channels available. I might as well put them to good use.

The enclosures are sealed and offer about .4ft^3 after displacement placing my modeled anechoic f3 at around 72hz.

Below is some of my build progress so far. They will eventually be finished in a hammered texture black to match my subwoofer. I will also be building a matching center channel.

Going active, my target x-over point will be around 2Khz with an additional 4th order notch filter added on the woofer around 3Khz to ensure the cone breakup is well below audible. It will take some time to tune correctly but my target predictions look to bring good results.





2" Rockwool added


Center brace added:




Top attached & Bracing ribs added:


More to follow...

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

nice so far.

[superspeeder]

Looking good!

[anunnaki]

Here are some further updates on my "what seems to be taking forever" progress.

Test fitting the drivers in the baffle:


Some internal shots:




Shot of baffle prior to attachment:


Baffles completely attached:


Roundovers completed and holes filled and sanded:

[xavier]

Wouldn't it be great if somebody made a plate amp for active 2 ways? Pity something like this couldn't be made for universal (almost) applications.

(sigh)

[anunnaki]

For it to be done right, it would require an infinitely variable x-over point with multiple slope selections to do it correctly.Then, a couple different amplifier selections in power output.

[kmibb]

For it to be done right, it would require an infinitely variable x-over point with multiple slope selections to do it correctly.Then, a couple different amplifier selections in power output.

Exactly, it's that easy!

[Mayhem13]

Active filter are far more forgiving that passives. The Dayton amps on special are nice but the XO point is too high for the RS-180. There are mods for these that some have posted and worked out. There's some EXPENSIVE amps available from HYPEX as well. Solen has these too....

http://solen.ca/pub/cms_nf_catalogue...2=2&niveau3=40

There's also the Digimoda's below which are also quite $$$.

[anunnaki]

I finally found some time to post some updates of my progress!

I actually have these finished sans the grilles but here are the photos I have taken up to that point.

They do sound quite good, but I need some tweaks as to my baffle step correction and tiny adjustments to overall tweeter level, etc. Thankfully this is easy to do with an active setup.

All in all I am pretty pleased. The amount of detail I am noticing is quite nice

I have not weighed them yet but best estimates are that they net in a bit over 30lbs each.

Here is a picture taken during painting:


Binding posts installed:


Enclosures after painting and masking removed:


Wiring installed into enclosure:

[chileaudio]

Hello! How you did that kind of paint? is also applicable only paint or some other type of material? looks very professional...

[anunnaki]

Hello! How you did that kind of paint? is also applicable only paint or some other type of material? looks very professional...

Thank you...

It is Rustoleum Hammered Finish, Black. It turns out more of a really dark gray. I used the same finish on my sub and wanted the speakers to match. I have my center speaker partially constructed but that has been an extremely slow process. I will post those pics sometime soon in a separate thread.

So far I am really pleased with them considering the low cost of the drivers used. The RS 180 is a great value in a woofer.

[B_Rich]

Those look fantastic. Did you use any primer or just throw the hammered paint on? I'm looking for an easy solution to painting MDF, and this seems like a fair way to go. The edges don't soak up the paint like normal spray paint would, do they? It doesn't look like it.

Also, how many coats?

[anunnaki]

Those look fantastic. Did you use any primer or just throw the hammered paint on? I'm looking for an easy solution to painting MDF, and this seems like a fair way to go. The edges don't soak up the paint like normal spray paint would, do they? It doesn't look like it.

Also, how many coats?

I primered them with a filler primer. About 3 coats of primer sanding lightly between coats. 2 heavy coats of paint. The hammered finish paint looks best with heavier coats actually. It is still subject to run so one must be careful but it turns out really nice.

Thanks for the compliments!