Has anyone replaced the tweeter in Behringer B212A/B215A

[victorlua]

Good Morning! I own a pair of Behringer Eurolive B215a, and have recently lost sound from the tweeter. I want to replace the tweeter but dread paying the $70 for an oem replacement. Has anyone found a suitable replacement here at PartsExpress?

Thanks in advance!!!

[Randy L]

I see that it uses a 1.35" diameter compression driver. I'm assuming the throat of the horn is standard 1". Can you take a look and see how the driver is mounted to the horn (bolt-on or screw-on?)

I'd be taking a look at the Selenium D220Ti driver first. I'll almost bet money that the sound will be a drastic improvement over OEM. There is a variety of models to suit the impedance and mounting needs.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-270


If the OEM is a screw-on driver, I'd even be confident the "lower model" Selenium DH200-E will outperform the Behringer horn. I have these in a couple full range PA's I built and the sound is surprisingly clear and LOUD.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-225

No matter what you end up choosing, if it will not be OEM replacement, you'll need to buy 2 of the new compression drivers and change BOTH cabs. Otherwise, the sound can be VERY different coming from the two speakers.

[victorlua]

Thanks for your reply! I cannot locate any documentation on the speaker that tells me how the tweeter is mounted.
I'm assuming that it's a screw-on because I cannot see or feel any bolts or screws once I removed the plate amp. I was able to remove the diaphram but Im still working on removing the rest of the tweeter assembly. Thanks again!

[Randy L]

So you're saying the tweeter diaphragm was able to be removed? SO all that's left is just the "horn" right? If so, that's all you need to replace...leave the horn there and mount the replacement driver to it.

My bet is that it screws in. Bolt-on drivers are typically on the more expensive cabinets.

[victorlua]

Well, after using a Big-ol wrench and a lot of elbow grease I was able to remove the horn. It was "glued" to the cabinet with huge gob of some sort of thread locker. Wish I wold have seen your post prior to all this, lol.
On the plus side, it is, at least I assume it is, a standard threaded-in horn, exit thread measure 3.5mm or about 1.35 inches, so I'm going to try out your recommendations, unless you think I can get away with just replacing the diaphram- it has 3 mounting holes spaced about 1-7/8" inches apart.
Here is what it looks like ;


Thank you so much for your time.

[Randy L]

That, in the pic, is just the actual diaphragm. To replace only it, you'd be best off getting one for that compression driver. Otherwise, (I'm guessing) just unscrew the driver magnet assembly from the horn and find a new-better compression driver.

[VilayL]

Hello,

I have a pair of Behringer's Eurolive B212A Active PAs and I believe 1 of the "horn" is blown, because all I get from it is mid/low sounds.. turning the "HIGH" dial I do NOT get any treble/highs at all... it's all mid/lows.

Am I having the same problem as original poster and what part do I need to replace?

Lastly how the heck do I replace it? I no longer have the manual.

Thanks,
VilayL

[VilayL]

Actually.. is there a good way to check to see if the tweeter is blown before dishing out $50 for the new part?

Thanks..

[billfitzmaurice]

Actually.. is there a good way to check to see if the tweeter is blown before dishing out $50 for the new part?

Thanks..

Use a VOM or DMM to test the voice coil continuity. If it's OK the crossover might have an open cap.

[VilayL]

It worked fine this past christmas at a home party... I haven't used it since. So not sure why the tweeter would be "blown?"

[Randy L]

Same reason woofers blow. Being driven too hard. Continually running the system "into the red" creates a heavily clipped signal which significantly increases the RMS power to the speakers. Most tweeters are only rated for a mere fraction of the speaker's power rating. If the increase in rms power nears or exceeds the tweeter's rms rating...more often than not...POOF!!! no more high's!!!!

Example: the older Carvin pro full range cabs were rated at 600wrms, they used the Eminence compression drivers, which are only rated at 80wrms.


But, as Bill suggested, the crossover can go bad too.

[wg_ski]

It worked fine this past christmas at a home party... I haven't used it since. So not sure why the tweeter would be "blown?"

When a tweeter (or woofer) has been overdriven/overloaded/overheated it might not quit on you until after it cools back off. It may have been damaged and still "working", but when you go back and use it next time, no dice.

[Randy L]

If you are not familiar with using an ohm meter, just swap the two compression drivers (the good one from the working cabinet to the bad one). If the high's return, then the driver was blown.