DIY Audio Racks

[Flacjunky]

I'm in the process of gathering ideas to build me my first audio rack.

I would like to replicate something similar to these.



Mine will be sitting on a desk not the floor ..... but I'm having a hard time sourcing the specialized hardware (fancy escutcheons, etc)

Does anyone care to share their setups or sources?

[marvin]

I'm in the process of gathering ideas to build me my first audio rack.

I would like to replicate something similar to these.



Mine will be sitting on a desk not the floor ..... but I'm having a hard time sourcing the specialized hardware (fancy escutcheons, etc)

Does anyone care to share their setups or sources?

I made one some years ago very similar to the left one on your picture. No fancy hardware. Used PVC for the posts, spray painted them silver. Used 1/4" threaded rod to clamp them all together, with rod couplings at the top end of the rod to mate with a countersunk furniture bolt through the top shelf (available at some HD or Menards stores).

Marvin

[DDF]

I'm in the process of gathering ideas to build me my first audio rack.

I would like to replicate something similar to these.



Mine will be sitting on a desk not the floor ..... but I'm having a hard time sourcing the specialized hardware (fancy escutcheons, etc)

Does anyone care to share their setups or sources?

Just down the road from me, these guys have some interesting things:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...,40993&p=41284
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...?cat=3%2c43496

[jettore]

Probably not a cheap option but you could use stand offs like these. Many lengths and diameters and both end are threaded.

http://www.standoffsystems.com/catal...minum-Barrels/

[Jim Griffin]

The brushed metal look shelves remind me of some modular shelving that Lowe's sells. Of course the components are realized with primarily plastic parts and the shelves are wood look wrapped chip board. You can choose plastic wheels or a plastic finial to terminate the base. The various components are inexpensive eventhough the overall unit looks nice to casual viewing. But with some thought you could use real wood shelves, spikes on the bottom, and similar upgrades.

For my audio gear I use the Lowe's supplied unit with 48" wide shelves as is except I drilled additional holes in the shelves for another set of verticals in the center of the unit. I used three shelves with one partition of 12" verticals and another of 8" verticals. The result is a relatively stable and attractive unit for not much money.

[ckmoore]

Here some links to rack builds I found...

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php...=album;id=2201

http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html

http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue16/diyrack.htm

[Flacjunky]

I've got some 1" chrome pipe, that I salvaged from a broken clothes rack, stashed for future considerations.

.... I wish I could come up with a way to use them as the corner posts, but also allow me to adjust the shelf heights (ie, not cut them into fixed lengths).

I'd hate to build them to fit my current A/V equipment, then have them be the wrong height for future stuff.

..... So I was thinking about using silver painted closet rod in lieu of the chrome pipe. That way if I had t change hgts in the future it would be easier to find

I got them images from here btw

http://www.racksandstands.com/Audio-...ds-C14143.html

[williamrschneider]

Here's an audio equipment table that I built a couple years back. The finish on the uprights is lime-wash (from Lowe's) over schedule-40 PVC, and it changes the plastic-look to something textured/different. I used 1/4-20 all-thread inside the PVC tubing to pull the parts together.

I have some build pictures and notes in one of my PE galleries here.



PVC is cheap, and easy to cut square on a table saw. That's one of the reasons I chose it. Another reason is that the finishing matches my Linkwitz Pluto loudspeakers that I have in the same room.

[Flacjunky]

Here's an audio equipment table that I built a couple years back. The finish on the uprights is lime-wash (from Lowe's) over schedule-40 PVC, and it changes the plastic-look to something textured/different. I used 1/4-20 all-thread inside the PVC tubing to pull the parts together.

I have some build pictures and notes in one of my PE galleries here.



PVC is cheap, and easy to cut square on a table saw. That's one of the reasons I chose it. Another reason is that the finishing matches my Linkwitz Pluto loudspeakers that I have in the same room.

Nice Bill ..... Very Nice.

[marvin]

For more money, this aluminum T-rail is available, too.

http://www.8020.net/Default.asp

http://www.steinerelectric.com/index...h=80-20&p=home

Marvin

[rone]

Just for fun:
http://wiki.eth-0.nl/index.php/LackRack

[LouC]

If you're looking for shiny & cheap, try electrical conduit. Comes in a variety of diameters, easy to bend and cut. It's galvanized, but some emery cloth and clear coat can make it look like stainless.

To make it adjustable, run a length of all thread through the middle of the tube. The only time most people adjust height is when they get new gear. Just cut some new tubes. You might look into black ABS drain pipe too. PVC is usually cheaper, stronger, & can be painted though.

[donprice]

You can also get aluminum electrical conduit. You might have to hit an electrical supply house rather than Lowe's or Home Depot to find it. Find a matching hole saw to countersink it ~1/8" into the shelf material. Shelves? I'm thinking 3/4" oak veneer plywood shot with black lacquer would be strong and slightly retro looking. Get the iron-on oak veneer edge banding to get rid of the plywood edge look.

[WayneN]

Here's an audio equipment table that I built a couple years back. The finish on the uprights is lime-wash (from Lowe's) over schedule-40 PVC, and it changes the plastic-look to something textured/different. I used 1/4-20 all-thread inside the PVC tubing to pull the parts together.

I have some build pictures and notes in one of my PE galleries here.



PVC is cheap, and easy to cut square on a table saw. That's one of the reasons I chose it. Another reason is that the finishing matches my Linkwitz Pluto loudspeakers that I have in the same room.

Very nice Bill,

Your write up is nice and easy to follow, I might have to consider this with my Maple windfall

Would you mind telling me what the dimensions are, width, height and length as well what you used for spacing between the shelves?

Thanks,

WayneN

[williamrschneider]

Well, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's one with a virtual yardstick tossed in for good measure.

[gowa]

Tony Gee's Flexy Table.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Flexy.html

[tomzarbo]

Just another idea to throw into the pot.

I've thought that a really nice rack could be made similar in appearance to this:



It used to be a dual subwoofer with 10" Cadence subs magnet side out in the lower angled areas.

It used 3/4" copper pipes and 1 1/2" MDF painted with black lacquer. The copper needed to be buffed to a shine, then clear coated, but once done, it had a very rich look to it contrasted with the black lacquer gloss.
The whole shebang stayed together with a couple of screws from the bottom for insurance, but the entire unit really stayed together as a friction fit.

A nice custom rack could be done cheap, and fairly easy (except for the end grain on the MDF!).

TomZ

[WayneN]

Well, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's one with a virtual yardstick tossed in for good measure.

Thank you, especially for the yardstick

WayneN

[Flacjunky]

Whats a good rule of thumb for minimum clearance over receiver for heat dissipation?

The receiver is 6 3/4" Tall.

[Starkiller4299]

+1 on the flexy. You can use o-rings for vibration dampening as well, if that's your thing. Mine are 3/4 done; the oak ply I'm making them out of is stained and 1/2 varnished. Just need to finish that up, cut the all-thread to size, and go crazy threading .