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  1. #1

    Default Stained Pine (Color examples)

    Based on a couple responses about finishes for pine in one of my other threads, I thought I'd post a range of stain options that I've tried to help others get an idea of what colors to expect in the final product. unless mentioned otherwise, the wood is home depot 3/4" edge-glued pine shelving (which are nicely pre-planed, sharp-edged panels, and easy to work with. you do have to sand it first, and use a pre-stain. One of the easiest methods i've found for applying even coats is to use a nylon-fiber edger. pour or spoon some stain onto the wood, and go along the grain direction with the edger).

    almost all of these are done with Minwax Polyshades Satin stains, which I've found to be a good compromise of cost, speed, and ease of finishing. The major drawback is that it doesn't always get you the deepest brown colors, and in those cases I'd recommend some tests with a darker oil-based stain that can set in before the poly. (which can also be used as a top coat to tint the color from the oil-based finish)

    The first is Polyshades Natural Cherry Satin, 2 coats. This one's my favorite and most of the furniture in the a/v room.

    Second is 3 coats of polyshades Bombay Mahogany. this one produced a really nice dark reddish color that I really like, but doesn't really go with anything i have, but has been well-received as a gift. I wish I had a picture of the overnight sensations in this color -- the look with the copper cone was very cool, not unlike wolf's sophomores.

    Third has 2 speakers in it -- the 3CR-AL (a licensed knockoff of Wolf's 3CR-Ti in the project showcases) used 7 coats of polyshades Walnut. I detected little difference from coat 3 onward, but the goal was to match my father's furniture. The taller thinner speaker is a modified Needle with a B3N, which was for my dad's new sun room. The color is Minwax oil-based dark walnut (2 coats), then a coat of the polyshades Walnut (one baffle came out with a redder tint and didn't need this) and finished with 3 coats of wipe-on satin poly. the final finish was a tad rough, but a light sanding between the later coats was likely to blame.

    Fourth is minwax polyshades old maple. i think this color is discontinued.

    I've used the Honey Pecan, but don't have photos. It's between the old maple and classic oak. (I'll take a picture of a test sample of a bunch of light colors and post that later). I've also done some tests with oil-based natural redwood, which is interesting, but not something i'd like to see a lot of around my house . might be a good accent color for kids rooms or something, though.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Howell NJ
    Posts
    7,119

    Default Re: Stained Pine (Color examples)

    I used to like darker stains for pine in your second and third photos. Now twentyfive years later I prefer the fourth photo the most. Then the first photo. Funny how a couple decades can change someones taste in color. Are those pine boards backed with mdf?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    North Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,427

    Default Re: Stained Pine (Color examples)

    I'll vouch for Patrickm's application method. If you're doing pine or similar woods that will blotch, the conditioner is vital. The edger pad is also the way to go.

    First saw that trick when I visited a small furniture shop.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Stained Pine (Color examples)

    Quote Originally Posted by fastbike1 View Post
    I'll vouch for Patrickm's application method. If you're doing pine or similar woods that will blotch, the conditioner is vital. The edger pad is also the way to go.

    First saw that trick when I visited a small furniture shop.
    guess that's good confirmation. also, i usually sand with 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats of the polyshades stains, but not the oil-based.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    North Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,427

    Default Re: Stained Pine (Color examples)

    And again, except that I only use 0000.

    Also, if using water based products with natural wood, lightly dampen the surface before your first coat of stain. Raises the grain. Sand one more time w/ at least 600 sandpaper, then go ahead and stain.

    Quote Originally Posted by patrickm View Post
    guess that's good confirmation. also, i usually sand with 000 or 0000 steel wool between coats of the polyshades stains, but not the oil-based.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Stained Pine (Color examples)

    ok, finally got around to a few more photos.

    the light colored test stick, from right to left:
    polyshades classic oak, satin, 2 coats
    polyshades classic oak, satin, 3 coats
    Polyshades old maple, satin, 2 coats
    Polyshades old maple, satin, 3 coats
    polyshades walnut, 2 very light coats
    polyshades walnut & old maple mix, 2 coats
    the 1" sub on the left end is probably a 3rd coat of that, but since it wasn't the shade i was trying to match, i never wrote it down.

    the odd-shaped cutout piece is 7 heavy coats of polyshades antique walnut. this was cut out of the 3CR-AL project i've posted elsewhere. after about the 3rd coat, there's no longer any need to steel wool/sand between coats.

    the dark stick, from right to left (keeping the convention above), is minwax antique walnut oil-based stain:

    2 coats plus 2 coats clear wipe-on poly
    2 coats
    (the thin part is 2 coats plus 1 coat polyshades walnut (instead of clear poly)
    1 coat
    1 coat w/ 2 coats clear poly on the left side.

    the second photo is 2 coats oil-based redwood + 2 coats clear poly on the HD pine shelving, the second is 2 coats redwood on 1/2" pine 5-layer plywood.

    third photo is my system in the background (cherry stain), with pecan, classic oak, and mohagany from left to right. that's last year's christmas present armada, and the best shot i have with multiple finished projects next to each other.
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    Last edited by patrickm; 11-06-2011 at 11:07 PM.

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