OT: Installing door trim

[killersoundz]

I'm not much of a carpenter but I took on the task of installing some baseboard and door trim at my mothers house and could use some advice from anyone that could help.

The door jamb and drywall aren't flush around the door. If I tried to install the casing around it as is there would be a big gap and it would look awful. What are my options? Should I try to chisel out the drywall to make it flush with the jamb?

Stupid carpentry....in my perfect box building world you don't run into stupid problems like this.

[edlafontaine]

can you make a trim piece to sit on the edge of the jamb?...fill in the gap?

Is the margin consistent all the way around?

Is the condition the same on both sides?

It is normal for jambs to be slightly proud of the drywall...~1/16-1/8"

What are you cutting the trim with? If you can tilt the blade you can make joints that are tight...you may just have to leave 45 & 90 degrees behind though...and cut every joint custom

[killersoundz]

can you make a trim piece to sit on the edge of the jamb?...fill in the gap?

Is the margin consistent all the way around?

Is the condition the same on both sides?

It is normal for jambs to be slightly proud of the drywall...~1/16-1/8"

What are you cutting the trim with? If you can tilt the blade you can make joints that are tight...you may just have to leave 45 & 90 degrees behind though...and cut every joint custom

No it's definitely not consistent lol. It's flush in the middle than the drywall is out further on the top and bottom. It's really rubbish, the whole house was built awfully.

I think what I might just have to do is put a thin piece of wood on the jamb and hand plane it down flush with the drywall.....way more work than I was hoping to do.

Also would it be bad practice if I used some caulk around the trim to....cover up that it was done by an amateur??? It's getting painted over anyways.

[edlafontaine]

Caulk was invented for sloppy carpenters like your predecessor.

Yep, fixing other's mistakes is a pita. However, your mother will love you for it. You are being a good son.

Just a few moments ago I handled a call from my daughter's realtor. I get to install a handrail on a set of steps my daughter doesn't own yet...before they can close.

I understand...

[mike s]

Your first thought is reasonable and probably how I would also do it depending upon how bad it is. That said, most door trim has a shallow area cut out on the back, it's to help with the problem you are talking about where the jamb is "lower" than the wall. You might try a different brand of door trim with a deeper cut. You may still need to shave the wall a bit, but it then may just be needed at the edge.

[killersoundz]

Caulk was invented for sloppy carpenters like your predecessor.

Yep, fixing other's mistakes is a pita. However, your mother will love you for it. You are being a good son.

Just a few moments ago I handled a call from my daughter's realtor. I get to install a handrail on a set of steps my daughter doesn't own yet...before they can close.

I understand...

Sometimes I feel like I shouldn't volunteer to do things for people..hehe.....

I stopped letting people know I could fix computers a long time ago because everyone and their brother would ask me to fix their computer. And it's just not something I want to spend my time doing even if they are paying for it.

[killersoundz]

Most door trim has a shallow area cut out on the back, it's to help with the problem you are talking about where the jamb is "lower" than the wall. You might try a different brand of door trim with a deeper cut. You may still need to shave the wall a bit, but it then may just be needed at the edge.

Yeah the trim we got has that but it's not deep at all. I *could* dado it on my table saw however it would be twisted when it gets up to the top so I think trying to level the jamb with the drywall is going to be the best way to go. Hope it goes well.

[MrkCrwly]

I have had to shim between the drywall and stud to widen the wall and/or added screws to pull the drywall to the stud. Sometimes both in the same run.
Drywall that is glued to the studs usually only had enough nails to keep it from falling off the wall. Tight at the nails and out a a 1/4" between nails. It is amazing how little pride some people take in their work. They do just enough to get by.

[Dirttracker73]

You could try installing the trim to the outside of the door jams and using 1/4 round moulding attached to the trim and the door jams. If the 1/4 round is smaller than the thickness of the trim boards, it will blend in pretty well. Of course, if there are large gaps, it will still look like ****. As you may see in the photo, my homemade 1/4 round is not really 1/4 round, but thats the idea. The rounded moulding didn't fit really well on the hinge side, thats why the photo shows it only on top.

[davepellegrene]

If you are 45 degree cutting. I usually back cut the miters with a block plane until they fit each other when they are in place. If the miters roll back and cause a gap back cutting the miter should make them fit better.
Dave
Thats my simple answer without getting into a long drawn out explanation. I will give you that one if you want it.

[danklugherz]

Hi Killer, I've had this problem quite often when trimming doors. I usually cut the rock back so 1/2" of trim still covers the drywall. These can be a pain to trim but doable. Also when the drywall sticks out further than the frame, you'll have to start with less than a 45 on that corner or it will be open when you bend it to the frame. Try 43 degree first and I always put the top piece on first. You'll want to put a pencil or shim under the tail end on your miter saw to raise up the trim on that end so after cutting, the face is open a little when laid flat and remember "Do your best, caulk the rest".

Dan