B_Rich's Build Thread

[B_Rich]

So I'm currently a junior in college, living in an apartment that is owned by the school. I've always wanted to build a DIY setup for home, and this is going to be my first project. I chose the infamous Overnight Sensations (which was designed by Paul Carmody). I'll also be running a Dayton RSS210HF 8" sub underneath my desk. After talking to Wolf a little bit, I'm pretty sure I'll be going with a 1 cubic foot enclosure tuned to 30hz. These will mainly be used as computer speakers, but that doesn't mean I won't throw them next to a TV down the road. Hopefully these will be decent "all around" speakers.

I ordered the parts last week and had them shipped to my house. Thanksgiving break starts tomorrow (it's been a long week! haha), and, depending on my buddy Chris' schedule (he has the table saw) cuts will start tomorrow night. If not, then I'll be assembling the crossovers.

Here are a couple pics that relate to the build. I'll (obviously) be updating with build pictures as I go.


This is a picture of the desk they'll be installed on. They'll be on the top shelf, replacing the white computer speakers that are there now. Yes, I know it's going to be a higher sound stage than ideal, but it's what I've got to work with.





Here is a rendering of the desk with the OS's up top, and the sub down below.





And a rendering of the OS's themselves (this one done by my buddy Chris).






More pics to come tomorrow night.

[Cardsin2005]

I like to see my work published. lol It all starts with a good model.

[B_Rich]

Wow, first of all, I must say thank you to Paul Carmody for the design of these little buggers. I haven't even been tweaking with any type of setting and I'm already happy with how these sound. I'm hearing detail in the music that I've never heard before. I don't even have the mids screwed down, no gasket in there, and no polyfill in there, and already I'm very happy with them.

Another big thanks goes out to my friend Chris (cardsin). He let me use/borrow half of his garage to get these done. Couldn't have done it without him.

The drivers are currently just sitting in the enclosure under their own pressure of the flush mount. I have to get some T nuts and screws tomorrow and that'll take care of that. I'll throw a roundover on the sides tomorrow, throw the polyfill in there (a handful right behind the driver, I believe?) and, of course, be screwing the mids down. I won't be finishing them until Winter Break. I don't feel I'll have enough time this week, and I don't want to rush the finish.

Here are a couple of quick pictures of the build, and where I'm at now.


































Had a little mistake there on one of the baffles. It was the flush cut for the 2nd baffle. As I was finishing up the cut, the jasper jig must've slipped off of the pin real quick. Oh well, every build has these minor mistakes I suppose.

That's it for now. I'll be updating as I go when needed. Thanks for looking.

[Cardsin2005]

Very Nice my friend.

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

those look nice. i would not hesitate to just use good coarse threaded screws on these.

[KLR]

Nice work. How are you going to finish them?

[Paul Carmody]

those look nice. i would not hesitate to just use good coarse threaded screws on these.

Agreed. I learned on my first build that hurricane/t-nuts are overrated.

Honestly, if you're going to do threaded nuts, do LOTS of tests. Use a transfer punch to get the holes perfectly centered, then drill the holes with a drill press to make the holes perfectly perpendicular.

Otherwise, just use some coarse-thread screws of some sort. Even sheet metal screws work well as long as you don't over-tighten them (or you'll strip the MDF).

[B_Rich]

Thanks guys. I'm not sure how I'm going to finish them yet. I'm leaning towards paint, maybe some type of textured (hammered?) paint. I have 3 weeks to think about it.

Well the reason I kind of want to do T nuts is because I'd like to use allen head screws. Something small, black and that blends in would be nice. I'll have to do some tests this afternoon in the garage.

I've stripped out way too many screws in my sub box

[Ron_E]

Thanks guys. I'm not sure how I'm going to finish them yet. I'm leaning towards paint, maybe some type of textured (hammered?) paint. I have 3 weeks to think about it.

Well the reason I kind of want to do T nuts is because I'd like to use allen head screws. Something small, black and that blends in would be nice. I'll have to do some tests this afternoon in the garage.

I've stripped out way too many screws in my sub box

I've been using these on small drivers. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-422 They come in 6-32 too. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-435

If you're still in town, Hokel Machine on Duff by the RR tracks has all kinds of black allen cap screws.

Want to bring them over when you're done?

Ron

[theLinks]

Very nice build, if all fails for the paint, truck bed liner is the next best thing. Durable.

[B_Rich]

I've been using these on small drivers. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-422 They come in 6-32 too. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=081-435

If you're still in town, Hokel Machine on Duff by the RR tracks has all kinds of black allen cap screws.

Want to bring them over when you're done?

Ron

I went and got some T nuts and allen socket head screws at Ace today. They fit perfect. I ended up putting the T nuts in with a C clamp, it worked out great! I'd love to bring them over! I'll be back in Ames next Sunday.

Very nice build, if all fails for the paint, truck bed liner is the next best thing. Durable.

Thank you. Yeah, I'm kind of leaning toward a higher build type of paint. The whole "sanding for hours on end" deal doesn't appeal to me at all. I figure the high build paint will help with that.

[Paul Carmody]

Thanks guys. I'm not sure how I'm going to finish them yet. I'm leaning towards paint, maybe some type of textured (hammered?) paint. I have 3 weeks to think about it.

Rust Oleum hammered paint looks pretty good without much effort. I re-did the OSMTM in "hammered copper" when I gave them to my cousin for a graduation present; looked nice. Forgot to take a damn picture, though. Here's a photo of the China Syndrome in hammered black.

[ckmoore]

And here is what they look like in hammered copper...

[Pete00t]

Nice match to the drivers Ck that looks stunning.

[B_Rich]

Oh man that does look really nice ckmoore.

[KLR]

Yeah, I'm kind of leaning toward a higher build type of paint. The whole "sanding for hours on end" deal doesn't appeal to me at all. I figure the high build paint will help with that.

No matter what you use, prep is the key. A high build paint over a crappy prep job will still look bad.

Fill, sand, prime. Don't try to do it all at once. Repeat once or twice.

[B_Rich]

Couple more pictures of the build:




















I am running into a (major) problem though. I'm running this motherboard in my computer. I'm getting major interference into the sub though (sub only, not the speakers..... or at least I'm not hearing any). It's almost like a nasty, scratchy white noise. If I move my mouse and perform an action on the computer, it changes pitches and you can tell it's directly related to the mouse actions. I'm using 3.5mm out from my computer, to the RCA input on my Dayton 240w plate amp. I've tried 2 different 3.5mm to RCA cables, and both have the exact same results. If I use my iPod as a source, I get no interference, so I know it's the computer.

Any ideas on the interference issue?

[ckmoore]

Try a diff mouse

[B_Rich]

New mouse, no go

[Ron_E]

Make sure you have the latest MB audio drivers. Google "optimize audio" for whatever OS you're using.

This product has been recommended on the forum for easy finishing. http://www.speakerhardware.com/durat...-DuratexRG.php

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...hlight=duratex

Ron