Dayton RSS390HO Bandpass through rear deck in a car?

[installerblizzake]

Hi all! I've modeled the Dayton RSS390HO in WinISD in a 4th order bandpass. I want to put it in the trunk of my 2007 Accord coupe with a 3" Precision Port firing through an adaptor plate installed where each of the factory 6x9's are. I realize that exact calculations and woodwork will be necessary for any degree of success. Does anyone see why this wouldn't work? The amp is an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 225.2, about 600 watts IIRC. I'm so tired of trunk bass. I miss my SUV! Thanks in advance for any input guys!

[Pete Schumacher ®]

Hi all! I've modeled the Dayton RSS390HO in WinISD in a 4th order bandpass. I want to put it in the trunk of my 2007 Accord coupe with a 3" Precision Port firing through an adaptor plate installed where each of the factory 6x9's are. I realize that exact calculations and woodwork will be necessary for any degree of success. Does anyone see why this wouldn't work? The amp is an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 225.2, about 600 watts IIRC. I'm so tired of trunk bass. I miss my SUV! Thanks in advance for any input guys!

Should work just fine, but I'd opt for at least a 4" diameter port with a 15" woofer of the capabilities of the RSS390.

[installerblizzake]

Should work just fine, but I'd opt for at least a 4" diameter port with a 15" woofer of the capabilities of the RSS390.

Even with two ports? I would have one port in each of the two 6x9 openings in the rear deck.

[charlielaub]

You might consider just sealing off the wall between the trunk and the cabin and doing a sealed alignment with the entire trunk as the "box". I did this back in the 80's with a VW Jetta that I owned. I actually cut the entire back deck out (including the metal support structure) and made a new deck out of carpet covered wood of some kind. Then I cut holes for a 15" sub in the middle, flanked by component 6.5" woofers and tweeters. I also mounted a carpet covered board just behind the seat in the trunk and mounted the amps and crossover there. That was a rockin system!

-Charlie

[installerblizzake]

You might consider just sealing off the wall between the trunk and the cabin and doing a sealed alignment with the entire trunk as the "box". I did this back in the 80's with a VW Jetta that I owned. I actually cut the entire back deck out (including the metal support structure) and made a new deck out of carpet covered wood of some kind. Then I cut holes for a 15" sub in the middle, flanked by component 6.5" woofers and tweeters. I also mounted a carpet covered board just behind the seat in the trunk and mounted the amps and crossover there. That was a rockin system!

-Charlie

The car only has 40k miles on it. I don't want to alter it that significantly. Pete said (2) 3" ports would work. I'm going to try this! Wish me luck!

[tomzarbo]

I did something similar to my friend's Olds several years ago, it worked fine... killer actually. Go for it! and post pictures

TomZ

[installerblizzake]

Will it hurt to face the RSS390HO upwards in the enclosure? Will the suspension sag over time?

[tomzarbo]

Will it hurt to face the RSS390HO upwards in the enclosure? Will the suspension sag over time?

Woah, that's a 15" subwoofer -- didn't realize that at first. You're putting that in a bandpass box in a car? Omigosh! You must like bass an awful lot!

I think most here would say not to mount it up or down, but in the vertical plane. I see why you're asking, it's gonna be pretty tough to get it into a cabinet oriented vertically.

There's a calculation you can do to determine if the driver will work acceptably in an up- or down-firing config, but I hate math, so I just estimate. It's the heavier of the two alum. coned subs, so I think probably not, but...

If you could position it in the box so that it could be reversed every year or so, pointing up-then pointing down, etc... I would think you'd be okay, but you will still probably loose a bit of X-max... No big deal, though. If you get that monster close to Xmax in a bandpass box in a car, you're going to have portions of your brain blowing out of your ears and nose from the extreme pressure, so you'll have bigger problems than loosing a bit of X-max! The box I made for my friend was a single 10" sub - not even an X-max monster -- and it made the whole car jiggle -- you may be overdoing it a bit... not that that's an entirely bad thing!

Please, take some pics, I'd love to see this.

TomZ

[installerblizzake]

Well, the bandpass plan sucked LOL. 2 things went horribly wrong. 1st, I had to make a 90 degree bend in the ports using a PVC fitting that had a sharp edge on the inside of the bend, which created a ton of noise. 2nd, the amount of air coming out of the ports in the small space betweet the rear deck and window was making the deck move up and down quite violently. Luckily, the sealed portion of the box was so close to what the sub needs for a sealed setup, that I was able to take off the lid of the ported section and give it a listen. I left out the rear speakers to let as much sound into the cabin as possible. It sounded MUCH better and was louder. I had another box laying around that is around 3 cuft, so I pieced the ports back into straight lengths to see how it sounded ported. The output is phenominal. It still has great sound quality, but of course it sounds best sealed. Even sealed the output is enough to flex my windsheild. I probably would have ditched the bandpass anyway, since the upper rolloff was -3 db at 70hz, and my 6 1/2 pioneers up front weren't playing low and loud enough to mesh - at least not without a ton of EQ. But this is all on a budget - I am using the factory CD player. It was still fun to try.

[tomzarbo]

I'm glad it's working out for you. I can only imagine what that much bass would feel like. That 15" sub can pressurize a large room pretty good, in a car with cabin gain, it must be crazy.

Any pics?

TomZ

[charlielaub]

Well, the bandpass plan sucked LOL. 2 things went horribly wrong. 1st, I had to make a 90 degree bend in the ports using a PVC fitting that had a sharp edge on the inside of the bend, which created a ton of noise. 2nd, the amount of air coming out of the ports in the small space betweet the rear deck and window was making the deck move up and down quite violently. Luckily, the sealed portion of the box was so close to what the sub needs for a sealed setup, that I was able to take off the lid of the ported section and give it a listen. I left out the rear speakers to let as much sound into the cabin as possible. It sounded MUCH better and was louder. I had another box laying around that is around 3 cuft, so I pieced the ports back into straight lengths to see how it sounded ported. The output is phenominal. It still has great sound quality, but of course it sounds best sealed. Even sealed the output is enough to flex my windsheild. I probably would have ditched the bandpass anyway, since the upper rolloff was -3 db at 70hz, and my 6 1/2 pioneers up front weren't playing low and loud enough to mesh - at least not without a ton of EQ. But this is all on a budget - I am using the factory CD player. It was still fun to try.

Are my suggestions still out of line? See:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...25&postcount=4

You wouldn't necessarily need to take out and redo the rear deck like I did. You do need to make a strong sealed enclosure, however, if it is "flexing your windshield"! If you can seal off the entire trunk and have a space open for the driver output to reach the cabin (as short and wide of a diameter as possible) then you regain trunk space and get awesome bass.

However you end up doing it, have fun!

-Charlie