My 5.1 Build

[cantgetitright]

Update:
Got some parts from parts express today. So I went to work buttoning up my center channel. Also I assembled my first crossover today. It was for the center and I put all 3 networks on one 5x6 board. How much fun is building xo's? I enjoy that most of all so far. Heres some pics. I threw one of my true love in there. Lemme know what you think.

[zuki1000r]

hi im new to speaker building but very handy as a remodeler. was wanting to build a 5.1 system also. saw this thread and thought it would be perfect start. question is is where did the plans for your design come from. thanks and they look great.

[bendaniels]

You'll find the info on the Statements here... http://speakerdesignworks.com/index_page_2.html

hi im new to speaker building but very handy as a remodeler. was wanting to build a 5.1 system also. saw this thread and thought it would be perfect start. question is is where did the plans for your design come from. thanks and they look great.

[cantgetitright]

Something just dawned on me. I already cut the speaker holes and recesses in my baffles. After I veneer how do I go back and re-cut the recesses and holes?

[Soundslike]

Based on what I've been reading lately, the method used most successfully is to use a router and a flush trim bit. Make sure it's a sharp one, and move the router is the correct direction. Experiment as you work your way out to the final cut to avoid surprises.. I've noticed that Randall Kepley has a lot of experience in this area -- might want to check with him.

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/se...earchid=749496

[bendaniels]

I think the primary challenge will be finding a flush trim bit with a bearing that is thinner than your shallowest recess. I have seen this discussed on htguide, but I can't recall the thread title.

[cantgetitright]

Hello Again.

I did my final mock up on the speakers and started to glue on the baffles and veneering the center channel. All I have for rounding the verticals is a 1\2" roundover bit. So per pop's suggestion I laid wet towels on the corners before sticking them down. This wet the veneer just enough to make it pliable and viola, the corners are bent. I snapped some pics and I will take more later after I get everything trimmed up. Thanks for the good idea pops!

[cantgetitright]

a couple more.

[cantgetitright]

Also I ordered some of the bits below. I read either here or htguide to use these and grind the tips to whatever depth you need. Anyone have experience doing it this way??

[john trials]

I cut my veneer with a razor blade. Very slow method, but it worked. I was too chicken to try the flush trim bit. I have a flush trim bit now (and I ground it down), so I'll try it on my next veneer job (actually, I'll try it on some scrap first).

From your photos it looks like you didn't bevel the front edge (the end that is nearest the mids) of your tunnel foam. Just cut them with a 45 degree slant towards the front.

That's amazing that you bent the veneer around only a 1/2" roundover...plus the grain is going the 'wrong' way for an easy bend! The veneer looks great.

[cantgetitright]

OK. So I finished up the veneer on the center channel and started to polyurethane it. One coat down, not sure how many to go. Heres a couple of pics.

[cantgetitright]

John,
I cut my recesses with a razor blade today cuz Im to dang impatient to wait for my bits to arrive. What a pain in the ***. Ill be doing all the rest with the correct bit. Oh yeah and when I was flush trimming the veneer on the back for some reason my router decided to take a huge gouge out of my veneer. I decided to just let it go and call it a love mark.

[Leroy R]

I'll be interested in seeing how those ground down flush trim bits work for you. I trimmed everything on mine with a razor knife. Where did you order them from?

[cantgetitright]

Hey Leroy,
Thanks for the reply. I ordered the bits from the place below. They were on sale 2 days ago for like 7.50 a piece. When I went to get the link this AM apparently the sale had ended and they are back up to 22 bucks a piece. Ouch. I dont mind grinding on 7 dollar bits but at 22 bucks a piece I dont know how much grinding I would do on them. Oh well. You do what you have to. Heres the link:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5410

I will be picking up some more veneer today and getting started on my statements. Anyone know exactly how many 4x8 sheets of veneer its gonna take just for the statements? I figured 2 whole sheets but its prolly more like 3. Center channel will be receiving its second coat this morning.
On a different note, does anyone have plans for a low profile entertainment center for a flat screen? Thats gonna be my next project and I couldn't find anything I liked last night. Thanks to all.

[cantgetitright]

What kind of feet do you all reccomend for my center channel. Its going to be sitting on a china hutch under my plasma.

[bendaniels]

You've got lots of options for feet. PE, of course, has a lot of spikes to choose from, most of which come with round dimpled discs which would protect the surface of your hutch.

Do you have a need to tilt or otherwise level the CC speaker?

[Soundslike]

Thought I'd add my thoughts regarding your build and the challenges you've encountered..

First of all -- let me say I'm amazed that you have the confidence and courage to launch into a project this complex, given that you are fairly new to woodworking and speaker building. When I say "fairly new," I guess I should make that a qualified statement -- you were fairly new when you started, but you're "experienced" now. I've built 17 speakers to date, but I've yet to tackle something as complex as this build of yours. You should be an inspiration to lots of aspiring speaker builders.

Regarding the veneer and the router bit, I can't tell exactly what you've purchased, but it looks like a steel bit (as opposed to carbide) of constant diameter from the cutting edge down to the area that guide the bit. If it's carbide, you'll need a special grinding wheel -- sorry, I can't remember what they're called, but I think your's is a steel bit anyway.

If it's a steel bit, it can be ground down but you'll need to be careful. You don't want to get the bit hot because you're likely to change the temper. If I were doing it, I'd grind a little, and before it got hot I'd dunk it in water. If it starts to change color, you've probably gotten it too hot -- don't dunk it if that happens. Allow it to cool gradually, before beginning again. Of course, you'll want to stay away from the cutting edge.

The other thing about steel bits is that they dull quickly, and without a bearing to guide against the wood inside the cutout, you can generate a lot of heat pretty quickly. That can burn the wood, and cause the bit to become coated with melted resins. So, I'd experiment on the inner portion of the area you're removing, to get a good idea of what it's going to do, before making the finish cut.

One other option I don't think has been discussed so far, is to sand the veneer to the finished edge. You will get a near perfect result, if you take your time. If after experimenting with your router bit you don't have much confidence in it, I'd use it to get close, then sand the rest of the way.

Regarding the veneer tear out, you can probably fix that problem as well. I tore a big chunk out of the veneer during my Overnight Sensation build, but managed to repair it so that it's not going to be seen by anyone who doesn't know it's there. If you're interested, visit my OS build string by following the link below my signature.

As for the open area you have on the base, I think I'd close that in. That should be easy enough to do by cutting a piece of MDF that will fit over the opening, either on the inside, or covering the entire front, whichever looks best proportionally. I'd do that, because I have a tendency to first look at the flaws in something I've made, and I usually wish I'd corrected them.

Your build is looking good... If you decide to advance in this hobby, I can't wait to see what you'll do next. This will be a tough act to follow..

[cantgetitright]

Thanks Soundslike. Its comments like yours that have given me the confidence to continue.

Ben, No need to tilt or anything (at least not yet). The hutch is the perfect heigth to put the speaker ear level when Im sitting on my bed watching tv. So any feet will do?? Thats cool.

[bendaniels]

I'm sure any feet would do. Spikes are typically used to couple the speakers to the floor. Rubber feet would have the opposite effect, decoupling the speaker from the surface. In this case, where the cabinet is probably not coupled all that well to the floor, I'm not sure which approach would be the best.

I suppose that if the speaker were to transfer vibrations to the hutch, the hutch may have some rattling points. In that case, decoupling would make sense. But I really don't have much foundation to theorize. Maybe someone else will chime in.

You could do something as simple as get some little clear rubber bumper type things at walmart. Cheap and editable if something makes more sense in the future.

[cantgetitright]

A few pics of the center channels 4th coat and a statement ready for veneer. Ill start that later this afternoon.