Table saw repair question

[rpb]

I have a small 25 year old table saw that has started loosing power. I suspect that maybe the brushes are worn out, but it could be a bearing maybe. With no load on the saw, you can ear the speed drop about 15%. When I cut the saw off, it comes to a stop quicker than it used to as well. Is it worth tracking down the parts, or is it just time to replace it.

[MagicO309d]

Take the saw apart and pull out the bearings. If they are bad and have numbers printed/stamped on them, you may be in luck. Google "bearings" and the part numbers and see if you get any hits. You may be able to order new ones for only a few dollars if the bearings have standard industry part numbers.

[jerryanderson]

It certainly sounds as if the bearings are going bad. If you like your old table saw, then see if you can track down the required parts and repair or repalce the motor if it's cheaper then the cost of a new table saw.

[PWR RYD]

It must be the bearings because single phase AC motors do not have brushes.

[rpb]

Thanks for the suggestions so far. The saw is nothing special. A new one at Lowes or Home Depot would be about $150 I think. I'd rather replace bearings, if the cost is under $40 or so. If it's much more than that, I'd opt for a new and maybe better saw.

[Zach C.]

if the cost is under $40 or so.

If you just need common bearings, you are probably looking at just a few bucks. 6203 (very common in smaller motors) for example are about $2.00 each retail.

Also, bearing stores won't need the part number, just the dimensions and a description should get you there.

Zach

[PWR RYD]

Generally speaking bearing of that size and speed rating are only a couple bucks each. I guess the question we should have asked is: is the blade belt driven or is direct driven (i.e. bolted directly to the motor shaft)?

[kornphlake]

you can usually hear a bearing when it is going bad, it will whine, or rattle or make some other noise that doesn't sound quite right. If it is the bearings it should be a cheap fix.

[gabel87]

You might want to check the run capacitor as well. Depending on the type of motor, it may have a start capacitor as well.

[linwin3000]

Now might be a good time to upgrade to a more modern motor that might output more power at the same amp draw. Also, if you are running on 110v then you should convert to 220v if remotely possible. This would require a double pole 20 amp 220v breaker and dedicated run just for your saw. The saw will run like the wind!
Richard

[rpb]

Generally speaking bearing of that size and speed rating are only a couple bucks each. I guess the question we should have asked is: is the blade belt driven or is direct driven (i.e. bolted directly to the motor shaft)?

It's a direct drive, there are no belts. The only odd sound I've heard is when I start it, it doesn't go to full rpm as quickly as it should. It sounds as if it's under load, when it isn't. This is a small table top type saw.

[marvin]

It's a direct drive, there are no belts. The only odd sound I've heard is when I start it, it doesn't go to full rpm as quickly as it should. It sounds as if it's under load, when it isn't. This is a small table top type saw.

It likely has a start capacitor or winding which is normally engaged at start up and is disengaged by a centrifugal switch as it reaches running speed.

If the centrifugal switch gets dirt in between the contacts (common with sawdust), then it will be reluctant to start. That doesn't sound like your problem. It is possible the centrifugal switch contacts are welded/stuck closed and keeping the start winding/cap in the circuit. See if you can find a centrifugal switch and clean the contacts (with the motor unplugged, of course).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_switch

HTH,
Marv