Think I can wrap some wood on wood veneer I got around a 5/8" radius? It's the largest roundover I got. I plan on cold-pressing the front first with Franklin cold press veneer glue, letting it cure, then wrapping it around and doing each side one at a time. I bent it, it seems pretty flexible, but want some opinions please from those who've done it. Thanks.
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You can buy or make stuff called "veneer softener" (a solution of glycerin and alcohol, http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com/Fl...g_Formula.html) which should make it safer to do that. Depends on how brittle your veneer is.
veneer softener is designed to be used on RAW veneers. It is NOT recommended to be used on a 2-ply. If the radius is a bit tight, spray some water on the face veneer prior to bending and gluing.
Thanks for the replies. some information I forgot is that the face veneer will be running vertical, quarter-sawn white oak. The backer is running cross grain, opposite the oak giving it stability. I think the next step for me is to round over a test piece and see how easy it is to bend. I'm trying to avoid buying an expensive 3/4 or 1" roundover, but if I have to,
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You're using 2 ply veneer. NBL veneer is 2 ply with the backer grain running in the same direction as the face. That's what you want if you plan to bend it around corners. I don't think you'll have much luck doing 2 ply on that tight of radius.
Thanks for the replies. some information I forgot is that the face veneer will be running vertical, quarter-sawn white oak. The backer is running cross grain, opposite the oak giving it stability. I think the next step for me is to round over a test piece and see how easy it is to bend. I'm trying to avoid buying an expensive 3/4 or 1" roundover, but if I have to,
Cross-ply isn't really ideal for wrapping -- especially with white oak. It's designed for stability on big thin panels. Try it on a test piece and let it sit for a day or two. If the oak doesn't split you maybe OK.
Personally, I wouldn't try a round over with cross-ply without a vacuum bag or caul press. But you may make it work.
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Looks like I'm going with chamfered corners, I've tossed it around in my head now for a week and I'm ok with it, although it was hard to give up the idea of a seamless look. The biggest thing is I want to use up the veneer I have before buying more, and this would allow me to do that. Thanks guys for the valuable input.
Your mistakes do not define you, they tell you who you're not. -3 Doors Down
Looks like I'm going with chamfered corners, I've tossed it around in my head now for a week and I'm ok with it, although it was hard to give up the idea of a seamless look. The biggest thing is I want to use up the veneer I have before buying more, and this would allow me to do that. Thanks guys for the valuable input.
Have you thought about cutting out a 1/2" or so groove out of the two front side corners and gluing in some matching solid wood, sanding, veneering to the corners, then rounding over afterwards? It is a bit more work, but if you're going after the small radius roundover look, it works fairly easily.
Saturate with pure denatured alcohol in the radius area only, you can use a foam brush. Go about 3-4 inches wide where the radius area splits and dry fit your veneer. Alcohol penetrates faster and dries quick ! Do not attempt to glue until veneer has dried and you are comfortable with the fit ! From there a household iron can assist you when gluing, just put a piece of blank paper between the veneer and it ect... Alot of cabinet shops use this method only with-out heat, they use a vacuum former instead ! Best of luck, and have happy 4th !
Have you thought about cutting out a 1/2" or so groove out of the two front side corners and gluing in some matching solid wood, sanding, veneering to the corners, then rounding over afterwards? It is a bit more work, but if you're going after the small radius roundover look, it works fairly easily.
TomZ
I have a similar approach that I am going to use with the chamfer. I am going to leave a 3/4 notch missing from the corners and slice a little triangle wedge out of mdf, veneer it and the cabs minus the corners, and then trim flush and sand the wedges to fit the corners exactly. I think if I do it this way I should be able to only see the white oak and not the dark backer like I can on some of my other projects where I've used this veneer. See my triumph sub in the project gallery.
Your mistakes do not define you, they tell you who you're not. -3 Doors Down