Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers
Yup, EXCEPT on the BP, instead of series/shunt/series/shunt (for the caps & coils) I modeled it with the series cap & series coil FIRST (either of those can come before the other - they're in series - so THAT doesn't matter),
(hmmm . . . I also see that you flopped the 2 coils around - the series coil is the 0.50mH, the shunt (to gnd) coil is the 2.0mH)
THEN
the 3 "shunt" legs to ground: cap, coil, & Zobel. THEIR order doesn't matter either - as they're all in parallel with each other
BUT they have to follow the 2 series elements or the response will be affected.
Notes: poly caps probably just for the 6.8 & 18 uF on the tweeter, otherwise the cheap npes.
I don't bother with the "Dayton Audio Grade"s, I just use the 0.50c cheap 10w wirewound resistors - they all measure the same. The $1.25 ones DO have a gold plating that falls off when you make a sharp bend in the leads - if you go for that sort of thing.
For coils: follow any "DCR" (DC resistance) or ohms (n) notation I might have made for any in series (DCR of shunt coils usually don't matter, so the smaller/cheaper the better - like the 2mH shunt coil on the bandpass, use a #20 with the 1.2n DCR - it'll be fine). I THINK that means a #18 for the BP 0.50mH. Your mid is the least sensitive driver, so if you used a #20 here, you'd cut its output even more (not by much, but let's not, anyway). And use the ERSE? "I-Core" for the 8.0mH in the low pass, 0.5n.
Chris
Yup, EXCEPT on the BP, instead of series/shunt/series/shunt (for the caps & coils) I modeled it with the series cap & series coil FIRST (either of those can come before the other - they're in series - so THAT doesn't matter),
(hmmm . . . I also see that you flopped the 2 coils around - the series coil is the 0.50mH, the shunt (to gnd) coil is the 2.0mH)
THEN
the 3 "shunt" legs to ground: cap, coil, & Zobel. THEIR order doesn't matter either - as they're all in parallel with each other
BUT they have to follow the 2 series elements or the response will be affected.
Notes: poly caps probably just for the 6.8 & 18 uF on the tweeter, otherwise the cheap npes.
I don't bother with the "Dayton Audio Grade"s, I just use the 0.50c cheap 10w wirewound resistors - they all measure the same. The $1.25 ones DO have a gold plating that falls off when you make a sharp bend in the leads - if you go for that sort of thing.
For coils: follow any "DCR" (DC resistance) or ohms (n) notation I might have made for any in series (DCR of shunt coils usually don't matter, so the smaller/cheaper the better - like the 2mH shunt coil on the bandpass, use a #20 with the 1.2n DCR - it'll be fine). I THINK that means a #18 for the BP 0.50mH. Your mid is the least sensitive driver, so if you used a #20 here, you'd cut its output even more (not by much, but let's not, anyway). And use the ERSE? "I-Core" for the 8.0mH in the low pass, 0.5n.
Chris
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