I theorize: 'Stance' a mini 2-way with RS125-4 and Beston RT003C...

[Paul Carmody]

looks like it's ready to survive a nuclear blast!

[Wolf]

looks like it's ready to survive a nuclear blast!

The cockroaches of speakers these may be! (without all the disease stuff)

Thanks for the compliment, Paul!
Wolf

[Taterworks]

So will these be ready for InDIYana or will it be Dayton?

[Wolf]

So will these be ready for InDIYana or will it be Dayton?

Hope so!
I will finish xovers when I return home and tweak tweeter resistor.
I have to install the terminals and I can proceed.
Wolf

[ontariomaximus]

Is there a schematic of the crossover for this one?

[Wolf]

Is there a schematic of the crossover for this one?

Yes- but it's not the final one.

I have the tweeter dialed in now, and have to measure the value.
Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Wolf, What are your impressions of the contrast between the HiVi RT1.3 and the Beston RT003C?

The RT1.3 is better 'controlled' than the RT003C, and can play lower. I'm certain the 1.3 is also lower in HD than the Beston. The units also have a different tonality, but I think that is due to the horn-loading of the Beston. Beston is also more peaky on axis due to the waveguide. If you listen off-axis a tad, I think you'd pad it a bit less than if you listen directly on-axis.
In the Stance- the Beston is a 2nd order electrical, and in the Vijon- the 1.3 is on a 4th order electrical. I have debated trying a third order on the Beston, but simulation doesn't warrant it.

So- I definitely favor the 1.3 over the 3C, but at a higher price and larger stature, and likely requiring a steeper electrical xover slope.

Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

I'll be playing with the top-octave a bit...
Stay tned for an updated schematic.

BTW- I have to move the files from the former HDD to get the schematic and update it before I can even dink around with it and post it up.

Been busy...
Wolf

[PWR RYD]

Been busy...
Wolf

Painting a nursery room?

Do we know what color yet

[Wolf]

Painting a nursery room?

Do we know what color yet

We're having a tweeter.
Room will likely be a light purple, as 'Mrs. Buttery Smooth' (look it up in the Scandivifia thread) doesn't want pink in any shape or form.

We're in process in building a LARGE bookshelf for the dining room to house all the books in boxes that are currently in that room, and we'll be adding some totes on rigid plastic shelving for the basement to house some other things we've been storing in the kid's future room.

I may have to sell the 6ft^3 dual-15" carpeted box I bought sooooo many years back, since it likely will not be required in that room. I have the old Rat Shack 15" woofers for it too.

Lots to do to prepare....
Wolf

[fjhuerta]

I like it a lot, Wolf!

I've been listening lately to a pair of micromonitors in my room (using the 4" Dayton Neo and a 1" Monitor Audio Neo) with a nice sub and a MiniDSP as the active x-over. I love them. Although big speakers do have a lot more sonic impact (as it should be) I feel mini speakers do a lot of things just right - imaging, etc.

Can't wait to hear your impressions about this design.

[Wolf]

I like it a lot, Wolf!

I've been listening lately to a pair of micromonitors in my room (using the 4" Dayton Neo and a 1" Monitor Audio Neo) with a nice sub and a MiniDSP as the active x-over. I love them. Although big speakers do have a lot more sonic impact (as it should be) I feel mini speakers do a lot of things just right - imaging, etc.

Can't wait to hear your impressions about this design.

I've had them on the stands since InDIYana, and I like what I'm hearing.
If something is sssibilant in source, it definitely comes through, as that Beston lets you know it's there. I just feel I'm lacking a bit of air on top octave extension- Likely due to the waveguided rolloff inherent in the response.

The Beston has a sound all its own, but it's not a bad quality. Sometimes a vocal will sound grungy in its lower ranges, but that is how it actually should sound. I'm very happy with my choices of drivers.

I'll keep you posted,
Wolf

[Wolf]

The series tweeter resistor is 15 ohms. Measured and verified.

I'm in painting mode, but facilitated a better way of experimenting with bypass caps to lessen the attenuation of the top-octave.
When these have allowed the paint to cure, I'll reassemble and play with that cap.

Oh- and I found another use for that dowel in the port- It allows you to zip-tie a 'cork' over the inner end of the port so you don't have to remove the stuffing for fear of it getting painted through the port.
No paint inside box = no paint inside box!

I'm sanded on 2 coats of primer up to 400g, and just applied the Primer Sealer. A light sand with 400g and 1000g, and I'm on to actual painting!
Stay tuned for something completely different....
Wolf

[jhollander]

I'm sanded on 2 coats of primer up to 400g, and just applied the Primer Sealer. A light sand with 400g and 1000g, and I'm on to actual painting!

1000g on primer sealer? That seems a bit fine, I assume you have had good results?

[Brewski]

1000g on primer sealer? That seems a bit fine, I assume you have had good results?

Wolf's an artist with a can of spray paint it's one of the many things I appreciate about his builds. While I'd not go that fine on primer cause I lack the patients if the sophomores are a result of that level of dedication I can see why he'd do it.

Take it easy
Jay

[Wolf]

Wolf's an artist with a can of spray paint it's one of the many things I appreciate about his builds. While I'd not go that fine on primer cause I lack the patience if the sophomores are a result of that level of dedication I can see why he'd do it.

Take it easy
Jay

The Primer Sealer from Duplicolor is awesome stuff. I've used it on the Sophomores, Vijon, and now these. I get better results with it as the paint does not soak into the primer after it's applied.
The baffles on the Vijon look like a solid piece of something milled, and this is the quality I want to achieve. I now have a consistent source for it at Meijer, as Advance Auto didn't always have it in stock. That's why I don't always use it.

The primer I sand with 150, 220, and 400 grits, and reapply if necessary, and resand. These took a double application and sanding, and the Sealer is sooooo smooth that you can resand with 400 and 1k and it's almost like glass. You do know that's how you get the gloss-black, right? The smaller and smaller scratches the grits make as the paint builds is what makes them 'shine'. Being that the prep is the most important, not the actual painting itself, that is why this being this smooth is sooo important.

While there are other methods of getting a buttery smooth finish, this seems to be the fastest for me. The Scandivifias were another method that takes a lot more time and patience.

FWIW, Jay- I did the paint I have on the Stance in 2 evenings. Prep is done, now on to paint!!!

Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Just finished sanding the Sealer with 400 and 1000 grits, and it shined in the light without any paint on it. That's how good this stuff is! Felt like butter too!

Then I sprayed the base coat, 1 light, one medium wet, and I'll have a couple runs to sand in a couple days. It's supposed to approach 90+ as the week goes on,
and these will need to cure a bit before sanding again. Maybe Wed evening I can get these sanded and lay another coat of base down. Then I can lay the color on,
and things will start to get fun! They already look pretty good in the base alone.

Oh yeah- you notice no pics or mention of what color that is? Heehee- you'll have to wait until MWAF to find out!

Later,
Wolf

[AR3A]

I can't wait to see these finished

[Wolf]

It turns out the air is dry enough I was able to sand tonight. I hit the previous paint with 320 and 1000 grits since I was out of 400 grit.

I then laid on the Krylon Fusion stuff, in the color of my choosing, and got the coverage and smoothness I was looking for as usual.
There are some very light runs that I do not believe will be an issue with another sand tomorrow. I may not need the 320 tomorrow if it lays right.
Another kiss with 1000 grit, and maybe another layer of paint, and I'm on to the next step!

If the next step is not too much trouble, then I may be letting them cure by the weekend- which is usually 2-3 days before some serious handling.

I think I have enough clearcoat on hand to finish them off.

Stay tuned!
Wolf

[pnoneal...]

Anxiously awaitng the final result as you have me fired up.