active crossover ?

[merlin2049er]

Hi, just have a active crossover question.

I have a pair of diamond wharfdale speakers (with a damaged tweeter), it's almost impossible to find a replacement tweeter (other than the original - and it's obsolete) that will work with the passive crossover in the speaker.

Anyways, I thought maybe I can remove the passive crossovers in these speakers, and drop in new tweeters and bi-amp binding posts.

Then get an active crossover to drive these speakers (with a couple of t-amps).

Any suggestion, or am I on the right track?

[ryanbouma]

Sure could. But you'll still have to design a cross over. So you could design a passive also. If you can't do cross over design, then both options will be tough. An active cross over (assuming digital here) is easier to design though.

[XtremeRevolution]

Hi, just have a active crossover question.

I have a pair of diamond wharfdale speakers (with a damaged tweeter), it's almost impossible to find a replacement tweeter (other than the original - and it's obsolete) that will work with the passive crossover in the speaker.

Anyways, I thought maybe I can remove the passive crossovers in these speakers, and drop in new tweeters and bi-amp binding posts.

Then get an active crossover to drive these speakers (with a couple of t-amps).

Any suggestion, or am I on the right track?

Which t-amps were you thinking of?

Sounds like a good plan to me! What processor are you thinking of using?

[Deward Hastings]

An active cross over . . . is easier to design

A great deal "easier to design", since the amplifier eliminates all the complex interactions between the crossover and the driver(s). "Textbook" active crossovers do exactly what the textbook says they do, entirely unlike passive designs, and drivers behave just like their response curves since there is nothing between them and the amplifier.

The mostly ignored right hand side of the PCD spreadsheet should be a real eye opener for anyone who has not done active design before . . .

[ryanbouma]

The mostly ignored right hand side of the PCD spreadsheet should be a real eye opener for anyone who has not done active design before . . .

No kidding. I use it lots, but feel like the only one. Has its limits, but hasn't been an issue yet.

It's important to note that although the FR tracks the manipulation of the active crossover exactly, like you say, that's not a free pass for begginers to apply basic LR4 settings and it'll work. I know you know this, but I've seen far to many people do this. Just rescued a fried who went active on a pair of overnight sensations from this very pitfall.

[AMC]

Sure could. But you'll still have to design a cross over.

Or you could just buy this
Behringer CX2310
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...inger%20cx2310

Would do everything you need and give you much flexibility!

[natehansen66]

Or you could just buy this
Behringer CX2310
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...inger%20cx2310

Would do everything you need and give you much flexibility!

I have one, and would absolutely not recommend it, when you can get a miniDSP for not much more. With the Behringer you're stuck with lr24 slopes, inaccurate pots, and you need to be careful with the gain structure to keep the noise down. Even then it's much noisier than miniDSP.

The miniDSP is quite flexible, and allows you to tailor the response how you want it. It's also nearly silent.

[merlin2049er]

I was looking at that Behringer, it looks like a super value.

I think my tweeters crossed over at about 2k. Should I look for any tweeter with a similar crossover point?

What's with all those knobs?

[natehansen66]

All those knobs are for adjusting xover frequencies and gains. I bought one.........then went with the miniDSP when I found out how inadequate the Behringer is for full range speakers.

It works ok for a sub crossover, but the miniDSP is infinitely better here as well.

The Behringer IMO is not a super value. Again, www.minidsp.com

The only real downside I see for some people with the miniDSP is you either need a computer near your system or a laptop, for changing its settings.

To really do this right though, you need a measurement mic and any of the various free softwares to measure your drivers to determine xo slopes and frequencies. To me, active makes the implementation quicker and easier, but the design itself takes knowledge and trial and error to get right. Very interesting stuff once you get into it!

[merlin2049er]

Great, I was looking at the minidsp. I've got a friend who highly recommends it.

I'm going to consider it. I'll have to get my speakers repaired first...

I can't seem to find any info on my woofer or tweeter for the diamond iv. Will any tweeter work with it, or should I look for something specific?

Thanks,
Joe

[foxfire3]

All those knobs are for adjusting xover frequencies and gains. I bought one.........then went with the miniDSP when I found out how inadequate the Behringer is for full range speakers.

It works ok for a sub crossover, but the miniDSP is infinitely better here as well.

The Behringer IMO is not a super value. Again, www.minidsp.com

The only real downside I see for some people with the miniDSP is you either need a computer near your system or a laptop, for changing its settings.

To really do this right though, you need a measurement mic and any of the various free softwares to measure your drivers to determine xo slopes and frequencies. To me, active makes the implementation quicker and easier, but the design itself takes knowledge and trial and error to get right. Very interesting stuff once you get into it!

I've been curious about the miniDSP for some time now, but just don't know enough about them to pull the trigger on a couple.

Can you or someone else point me in the direction to a easy-to-understand tutorial on the miniDSP's?

Thank you...

[ryanbouma]

It's so easy to use, there isn't much to say. The biggest thing, is knowing what you plan to do with it. You need to buy a plug in. So if your controlling subs, you'll want a different plug in than if your doing 2way cross overs. You'll need a power supply as well, and some RCA connects. Pre outs on what ever you're using. Hook it up, program it, and away you go. The software is a snap.

There isn't much info on it, but once you use one you'll see why. I think there are some videos on minidsp.com about using it.