Aura and Dayton

[Geniuss_dad]

I am about ready to pull the trigger on some of the Aura NS6 speakers. I think that the Dayton DC28 will go with them. This will go into a 1.8 c/f sealed box with 3 of the NS6 per in a series/parallel configuration. This is a first build, so I might use a PE X-over. Any thoughts, opinions, or advice would be great. Thanks

[johnnyrichards]

A. I can cut you a heckuva deal on 4 of the NS6 woofers.

B. Try looking for "Auerbach" (I think). There is an MTM version either in the works or already done.

[GranteedEV]

This is a first build, so I might use a PE X-over.

expect very random results.....

[Chris Roemer]

I am about ready to pull the trigger on some of the Aura NS6 speakers. I think that the Dayton DC28 will go with them. This will go into a 1.8 c/f sealed box with 3 of the NS6 per in a series/parallel configuration. This is a first build, so I might use a PE X-over. Any thoughts, opinions, or advice would be great. Thanks

It's next to impossible to wire up a bunch of drivers in a way that your amp will like and where they each develop the same SPL, IF the number of drivers is a prime number. The only good exceptions being a single driver, and a pair of drivers (in series OR parallel - depending on their impedance).

The only way 3 really works is if you've got 3 low impedance drivers in series (like 2 ohm or 4 ohm), or 3 higher than average drivers in parallel (like 12 or 16 ohms). The NS6 are 8 ohms, aren't they?

To "series/parallel" (and keep the single driver impedance) you need 4 drivers (which is 2 squared), 9 drivers (3^2), 16 drivers (4^2) . . . see the progression?

Chris

[Geniuss_dad]

It's next to impossible to wire up a bunch of drivers in a way that your amp will like and where they each develop the same SPL, IF the number of drivers is a prime number. The only good exceptions being a single driver, and a pair of drivers (in series OR parallel - depending on their impedance).

The only way 3 really works is if you've got 3 low impedance drivers in series (like 2 ohm or 4 ohm), or 3 higher than average drivers in parallel (like 12 or 16 ohms). The NS6 are 8 ohms, aren't they?

To "series/parallel" (and keep the single driver impedance) you need 4 drivers (which is 2 squared), 9 drivers (3^2), 16 drivers (4^2) . . . see the progression?

Chris

So if I read this correctly, wiring speakers 1 and 2 in series then those to #3 in parallel will not get the 8ohm that I am looking for? Or 1 and 2 in parallel to 3 in series to maybe a 6ohm?

[Mark65]

So if I read this correctly, wiring speakers 1 and 2 in series then those to #3 in parallel will not get the 8ohm that I am looking for? Or 1 and 2 in parallel to 3 in series to maybe a 6ohm?

Short answer: Nope.


Longer answer: Actually yes, in terms of overall load, but you'll get either one driver shouldering most of the load, and louder than the other two, or one lagging behind, and lost in the others' wake. This has been discussed in another thread, wish i could remember where and when, though.


What I'd do in your shoes is look for the AURBAC mtm by Don Radick, build two of those, and build the original AURBAC (he caps it, don't blame me) as surrounds.

Or keep the extra NS6's as spares....



Mark

[chrisn]

Here's the link for Don's TM using this driver and a small Vifa tweeter: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...d.php?t=224391

1.8cf would work ok for two of these drivers vented

[50 watt head]

So if I read this correctly, wiring speakers 1 and 2 in series then those to #3 in parallel will not get the 8ohm that I am looking for?

#1 and #2 in series = 16 ohms. This in parallel with #3 = 5.33 ohms

Or 1 and 2 in parallel to 3 in series to maybe a 6ohm?

#1 and #2 in parallel = 4 ohms. #3 in series with 6 ohms = 14 ohms. 4 ohms in series with 14 ohms = 18 ohms.

Suggestion: build the Aurbacs or Stentorians

[ROTECH]

All of the technical help you have gotten here is vastly correct, and great information for you to follow. The more you learn, the less you will know- trust me!!! If your the type of guy that can handle simply borrowing an existing design, it will be much easier and faster for you. Designing from scratch will take about a year without measurement gear and a wealth of knowledge. I was not that type of guy and my designs do not happen nearly as fast as the other more experienced guys here.

I think you need a positive booster though.... I like the DC28f tweeter. I have used in 3 designs and it does everything well. Nothing breathtaking, but it will make you very satisfied.

[donradick]

I'm finishing voicing and tweaks on the MTM version of my Aurbacs.
If you want to do own design, I've got a NIB pair of the DC28 "silkies" that I'll make you a deal on. Otherwise, get 4 of the NS6s from Johnny, get 2 of the Vifa BC2506-04 tweeters, and start on the boxes. 2X NS6 in 1.8 cubes should get a very nice bottom end. See my sig for details on the TM version.

[Geniuss_dad]

Don, I like those Tm's. I have looked at a lot of different designs. One of the problems that I am finding is a lack of 8 ohm plans. For a first build, I would like to run them off of my receiver. I would use it for 90% HT/10% music. If all goes well and I like it, then I could look into an amp for 4 ohm stuff. Any suggestions?

[donradick]

Don, I like those Tm's. I have looked at a lot of different designs. One of the problems that I am finding is a lack of 8 ohm plans. For a first build, I would like to run them off of my receiver. I would use it for 90% HT/10% music. If all goes well and I like it, then I could look into an amp for 4 ohm stuff. Any suggestions?

If you are asking if this is an 8 ohm design, well, pretty much. The minimum resistance (Re) of the woofer is 6 ohms, and then you add the resistance of the inductor, so you've got about 6.5 ohms. Any 8 ohm reated HTR will have no problem. You can even build these into 1/2 cube boxes sealed for surrounds. The MTM version, though is definitely a 4 ohm design, which is pretty true for most center channels.

Not sure if you asking for recos for 4 ohm HTRs. Big subject around here. Search the recent threads and you'll find a couple.

[johnnyrichards]

Well, my quad of drivers is gone, sorry.

I was doing 20-200 hz sine sweeps at 90 db for ten minutes with a 10" subwoofer the other day before my Onkyo 603 pitched a fit. The driver has an Re of 3.2. I think a typical 4 ohm MTM would not present a problem to most receivers.