MLTL Build with RS225x2

[Ryan]

Now thats bracing! I need to get out to my garage and start making saw dust now , your photos may just be the inspiration I needed.

[bconline]

I'm ready to glue this thing shut now. I'm new at this, so I'd like to check my plan with you experienced hands. The last thing I want is to seal it up, then realize that I did something wrong. Here's my plan:

1) Install the wiring for both drivers. Staple the wire down along the edges.
2) Staple a loose curtain of cheese cloth below the divider in between the front half and back half to keep the polyfill from drifting into the back half. Recall that the design calls for polyfill in the front half only.
3) Put a thin layer of glue on the box surfaces which will attach to the side. I made sure that all the mating surfaces are the right height by running my level across the whole surface - No bumps up and no gaps. The white diamond in the pictures is where I glued up a shim made of 3 sheets of paper on a dowel which was a fraction too short.
4) Lay the side panel down flat on some blocks with the inside surface facing up.
5) Put a thick layer of glue on the side panel where it will attach to the box. You may be able to see in the last picture that I traced all the attachment surfaces in pencil.
6) Lay the box on top of the side panel (not the other way around) so that the excess glue on the inside will stay in the joint area rather than run away from the joint.
7) Let the glue dry for 24 hrs+
8) Put the polyfill in through the driver holes. Distribute evenly. I measured 16 oz using the scale at the local post office.
9) Put a layer of cheese cloth behind the drivers. (Does this need to be attached so it doesn't shift around? How? Any suggestions?)
10) Install the drivers.
11) Install the port tube.

How does this all sound? Any suggestions?

[Paul K.]

Instead of stapling the wiring for the drivers, which could lead to shorting out the pair of wires if the staple pierces the insulation, I'd run the wiring up the middle and simply attach it to the bracing in several places with plastic ties.

When you set the box down onto the side panel, are you going to weigh it down so the glue joint is properly compressed? If you have enough of them, I would use clamps instead.

Paul

I'm ready to glue this thing shut now. I'm new at this, so I'd like to check my plan with you experienced hands. The last thing I want is to seal it up, then realize that I did something wrong. Here's my plan:

1) Install the wiring for both drivers. Staple the wire down along the edges.
2) Staple a loose curtain of cheese cloth below the divider in between the front half and back half to keep the polyfill from drifting into the back half. Recall that the design calls for polyfill in the front half only.
3) Put a thin layer of glue on the box surfaces which will attach to the side. I made sure that all the mating surfaces are the right height by running my level across the whole surface - No bumps up and no gaps. The white diamond in the pictures is where I glued up a shim made of 3 sheets of paper on a dowel which was a fraction too short.
4) Lay the side panel down flat on some blocks with the inside surface facing up.
5) Put a thick layer of glue on the side panel where it will attach to the box. You may be able to see in the last picture that I traced all the attachment surfaces in pencil.
6) Lay the box on top of the side panel (not the other way around) so that the excess glue on the inside will stay in the joint area rather than run away from the joint.
7) Let the glue dry for 24 hrs+
8) Put the polyfill in through the driver holes. Distribute evenly. I measured 16 oz using the scale at the local post office.
9) Put a layer of cheese cloth behind the drivers. (Does this need to be attached so it doesn't shift around? How? Any suggestions?)
10) Install the drivers.
11) Install the port tube.

How does this all sound? Any suggestions?

[bungelow_ed]

Reading through your assembly steps a couple of things stand out to me.

1. Why not set the box on it's side apply glue to the box edges and then place the side panel on the box? The side panel is going to be much easier handle and adjust.
2. If you clamp some straight edges to the box they will act as guides to line up the side panel.
3. I normally have the internals fully assembled before gluing on the the last panel. It's much easier to ensure stuffing is properly placed and distributed while you cvan see the full length of the cavity.
4. A hot glue gun is an excellent means of affixing cables where you want them. It's not the only way to manage cables but it's a handy tool to have and relatively inexpensive.
5. Nice build. I can't wait to see the finished build read your listening impressions.

[bconline]

Thanks for the suggestions! How could I forget zip ties and hot glue! These are great ideas for attaching the wires. Should I use hot glue to attach cheese cloth to the drivers (to keep the stuffing out) or ???

Regarding clamping - I sure do which I had more long clamps, but I only have two that are long enough. So I was planning to use 100-200 lbs of weight on the box like the first picture below.

Regarding box on top versus side panel on top - I know that it will be harder to manage the big box on top. But I'm thinking that If I put the box on top, the excess glue will make a nice bead of glue in the seam, like the second picture below - versus drip away from the seam, like the third picture below.

Regarding straight edge for alignment - Nice idea, I'll use it.

Regarding stuffing first - I could try that. The specified amount of stuffing wants to overflow the cavity (see picture a few posts back) and I was concerned that it might get stuck into the seams.

[bungelow_ed]

Thanks for the suggestions! How could I forget zip ties and hot glue! These are great ideas for attaching the wires. Should I use hot glue to attach cheese cloth to the drivers (to keep the stuffing out) or ???

Regarding clamping - I sure do which I had more long clamps, but I only have two that are long enough. So I was planning to use 100-200 lbs of weight on the box like the first picture below.

Regarding box on top versus side panel on top - I know that it will be harder to manage the big box on top. But I'm thinking that If I put the box on top, the excess glue will make a nice bead of glue in the seam, like the second picture below - versus drip away from the seam, like the third picture below.

Regarding straight edge for alignment - Nice idea, I'll use it.

Regarding stuffing first - I could try that. The specified amount of stuffing wants to overflow the cavity (see picture a few posts back) and I was concerned that it might get stuck into the seams.

Yes, absolutely you can use hot glue for the cheese cloth. I would....

Clamps, you can never have to many... The more you have to use the better your odds of achieving a nice tight bond. Yellow glue will never make up for a poor joint. As for glue control, use some blue painter's tape along the glue line. It will keep the runs and excess from marring the adjacent areas.

I would guess if the stuffing is overflowing to the point of interfering with achieving a good joint it needs to be re-arranged. A few fibers in the joint could be a benefit by helping to minimize movement/settling of the stuffing over time.

End of the day, there is more than one way to skin a cat. You need to use the methods that make sense to you and you feel have the highest probability of success.

[2leftthumbs]

I'm confused by the front-back dimentions: Shouldn't the difference between internal and external should be 1.5" rather than 1.75"?

[bconline]

You are right. Good eye!

Paul K. originally suggested 1" stock for the front baffle and that's what the drawing indicated. But I didn't have easy access to 1" stock, so I used standard 3/4". I updated the drawing to reflect the as-build box. So the external front-back is 19.75 now.

If I were to do it again, I would double-up the front panel. with another 1/2 or 3/4 panel. This would increase the front to back dimension.

But I'm going to try my box as-is. If I am not satisfied, I have a secret plan to add a second baffle that adds thickness and is also decorative. See the drawing below.

I'm confused by the front-back dimentions: Shouldn't the difference between internal and external should be 1.5" rather than 1.75"?

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

very nice build. i suspect you have learned a few things. i think your idea for the additional baffle could work well. cant wait to see the rest of your build.

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

PS nice bracing

[6thplanet]

Right on, man!! Thats coming together nicley...and braced out the wazoo! With the top section being open back I kinda wonder what the "enclosure" will do to the FR response. Have you tested it with and with out (i.e. flat baffle/no baffle)?

[bconline]

Thanks for the encouragement. I have one of these cabinets glued up now. Here's some pictures of the process. Hope this thread is not to much detail for you readers!

Picture #1) Zip ties to secure the wiring. I added some dabs of hot glue also.
Picture #2) Cheese cloth between the front and back halves.
Picture #3) Glue on the side panel to be attached.
Picture #4) Stack of heavy stuff for weight on the glue joint. Only the bottom cabinet is being glued. The upper cabinet is just for weight.
Picture #5) Cheese cloth behind the woofer to keep the stuffing out

[bconline]

Here's a few pictures of the one box. I plan to paint it and ask my wife to help select the color . I'm thinking of doing a small radius or chamfer on edges (1/4" - 1/2"). Suggestions?

The midrange/tweeter box on top is a very rough prototype using a Neo8 (instead of the intended Neo10). Obviously, it's open back. I can add varying amounts of stuffing to adjust the sound. I'm running it tri-amp with protective caps on the mid and tweet.

I have long ways to go. But so far, I'm liking the sound.

[bconline]

With the top section being open back I kinda wonder what the "enclosure" will do to the FR response. Have you tested it with and with out (i.e. flat baffle/no baffle)?

I don't have the equipment/software to do any quantitative testing. I do have a PC and access to a USB microphone (Samson C01U). Perhaps I can do some testing with those. Any suggestions on how I could do that?

[RINNAV]

Any progress on this build? I am waiting with baited breath

[bconline]

I went on vacation with the family, and recently got back to speaker building.

I finished the second bass bin (identical to the first) and built a second prototype mid-tweet box. (See pictures.) This mid-tweet box is larger than my previous one, so that it can handle a Neo10. I haven't purchased NEO10's yet. The recent price hike it making me hesitate and look on the 2nd hand market. For now the box has a Neo3 and Neo8. The box also has recessed tweeter, 1/2" radius edges is made from 3/4" MDF.

In early listening, I am very pleased. The bass capabilities of four RS2225's in the MLTL configuration is impressive! The transient response and clarity of the Neo8 and Neo3 is just what I was hoping for.

However, I'm feeling more and more like I need to do some real measurements to get these dialed in before finalizing the size and shape of the mid-tweet box and the tuning of the MLTL.

[6thplanet]

Since your in experimenting mode I'd try the neo3 (no face plate) on top of the 8 on a flat baffle.
I used the neo8 by itself totally open (no baffle) with some upright struts and it sounded great. Like this:



I'd say give that a try, too. I know it's not aesthetically the same as what you have going, but worth a listen....

[bconline]

Since your in experimenting mode I'd try the neo3 (no face plate) on top of the 8 on a flat baffle...

I've tried a number of configuration of the Neo8 and Neo3. See the pictures below. I think the best sounding was the line array of 6 Neo8's and a Neo3 next to it. But that would be too expensive and a bit large. I haven't tried a bare Neo8. I thought that I would lose too much on the low end of the midrange. But its easy enough to try...

[6thplanet]

I ran it down to 500Hz @18dB electrical.

[natehansen66]

Killer build!

I'd highly recommend a measurement setup. You can get a calibrated mic, mic pre, and a stand for less than $200. Then a miniDSP so you can really get it dialed in. You think they sound good now......

The Philharmonics run the Neo8 down to 500 or so don't they?