Need some advice on 2.1 system

[XtremeRevolution]

His PC speakers are 8 ohm Aura NS3 with a 1000uf cap in series in 64 cubic inches sealed and stuffed. $12.50 per driver, $3 per cap, and http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=300-7040 for $15 ea.

$31 per satellite plus finishing materials.

We were looking for something cheap, but not quite that cheap.

[its_bacon12]

Look around in the Speaker Project section - people are extremely satisfied with the NS3 in that configuration.

[fbov]

...Is there any reason why this wouldn't work with the Dayton amp?
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...rol-mini-jack/

You've found the "upgrade!" Yes, this now works on both PE and Keiga with cables provided. But... so would an L-pad in a box.

I've built two 2.1 systems (2 kids), and thanks to PE's stocking policies, I've built one of each, PE and Keiga amps. No big difference in operation (input device is master volume control) or performance, even if the XO's operate differently.

I built with an MCA2550D. PE's now out of stock on MCA2550E, which adds a mini mic jack input, like Keiga always has. If you don't have the amp, wait for MCA2550F... or buy Keiga.

HAve fun,
Frank

[neildavis]

Any advice on an amp?

I'm probably going to make a few more of these amps in the near future. The circuitry works, and I've got enough code working that the amp is useable. These amps were put on hold until I could finish off the PC software to control them, but I've been working on the software and should have something with basic capabilities very soon. I'm not selling anything now--but if you want to make one for yourself I will give you all of the data you need. But notice that there is some careful soldering involved.

The amps are based on the Class D STA328 chip. These amps have 4 digital biquads per channel, so there is enough DSP to implement an 8-pole active crossover (or anything less). The STA328 running on 24V can be used as either a stereo (2.0) or 2.1 amp, with 50W/50W in stereo or 20W/20W/50W in 2.1 mode.

The picture shows an old board with just SPDIF input. The new boards have both SPDIF and USB audio input, but no analog input. The new board is a bit crowded, so adding analog input would be difficult. There is a jumper for adding a volume control (digital volume control) but the board itself doesn't have a place to mount a pot. There is a micro USB connector for connecting to the PC, and the code on the PC side can be used to model the response and program the DSP on the chip.

This was one in a series of "smart amps". The next generation of 2.1 amps will use the newer TI chips. I've also got a nice 4.2 amp that can be used for stereo 3-way speakers. The 3-year-old "roadmap" for these amps is here: http://www.audiodevelopers.com/plate...amp_family.htm

[Wolf]

His PC speakers are 8 ohm Aura NS3 with a 1000uf cap in series in 64 cubic inches sealed and stuffed. $12.50 per driver, $3 per cap, and http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=300-7040 for $15 ea.

$31 per satellite plus finishing materials.

Actually- it's a 500uF cap each.
Later,
Wolf

[Wolf]

Look around in the Speaker Project section - people are extremely satisfied with the NS3 in that configuration.

And of all the viewings on my Photobucket account, the 'blueprint' for the PC (Perfectly Compact) has the most views of pretty much any of my posted photos.

XR- I think they would suffice.
Wolf

[its_bacon12]

Actually- it's a 500uF cap each.
Later,
Wolf

Fixed for people who see that post and not this. Thanks.

[ani_101]

Wolf's PC is a great little speaker with good mid-range. Add to it Chris's little white sub and you have a great 2.1 at around 250$ or so. If a 12" sub is looks monstrous near the PC speakers, go for the cerberus and you can have neat little system ~150$.

If you want to have your cake and eat it too try the Pico Neo, slightly bigger (a whole lot actually) but you can do without the sub - a pair for around ~50$.

I build both PC and Pico, and they sound great!

If the NS3 is not your liking, then stick to Overnight Sensation ~130$. You don't need a sub for music. If you want more bass try the Nano Neo - a pair around ~150$. And this is including knock down cabinet kits.... for both OS and Nano

[XtremeRevolution]

Wolf's PC is a great little speaker with good mid-range. Add to it Chris's little white sub and you have a great 2.1 at around 250$ or so. If a 12" sub is looks monstrous near the PC speakers, go for the cerberus and you can have neat little system ~150$.

If you want to have your cake and eat it too try the Pico Neo, slightly bigger (a whole lot actually) but you can do without the sub - a pair for around ~50$.

I build both PC and Pico, and they sound great!

If the NS3 is not your liking, then stick to Overnight Sensation ~130$. You don't need a sub for music. If you want more bass try the Nano Neo - a pair around ~150$. And this is including knock down cabinet kits.... for both OS and Nano

I guess I was more looking for something to build and design from scratch. I've built enough proven designs to where it's not as interesting anymore. I built the Aurbacs, Overnight Sensations MTMs, my little Aura NS35/Nuance TMs, the Statement Monitors, Nano Neos, and then designed the Florians, which were a great success. Designing the Florians was much more fun.

I really wanted to try my hand at a higher end full range driver. I've used the NS3, and while impressed, I want to try something different.

My total cost for this whole thing so far is $265, which includes that 6.5" TB subwoofer, the two 4" full range drivers, the amp, and the BSC and shaping circuit. Add another $15 plus shipping for that volume control pod off Madisound.

[its_bacon12]

Ok, well you were looking for inexpensive to fit the bill and I posted what I thought would fit the bill.

GL is your search

[XtremeRevolution]

I'm scrapping the W4-1320 idea. It's just too expensive to get it to sound good. In order to get what I wanted out of it, I ended up with way too many crossover components. The response is just too ragged. I can see it working excellently in a high-crossed 2-way, but I haven't enjoyed working with it so far. I don't see the point in spending $37 on a driver to add another $25-$30 to it in crossover components to flatten it out get some BSC, when I could start with a more expensive Fountek, Fostex, or Mark Audio driver from Madisound and need a much simpler circuit, as well as have a more reliable frequency response to work with. I'm even considering the CSS-EL70.

I'll let you guys know what I end up with.

[technodanvan]

If you're getting the EL70 you better jump on it quick. I purchased a pair from Meniscus a few weeks ago and was told they are no longer in production, Mark had to order mine right from CSS. It sounds like whatever they have in stock is pretty much all there will be, and you might have to order directly from them. I'm just putting together a quick project with it because I was curious about full range sound and this seemed an inexpensive way to get into it.

I haven't gotten mine running yet so I can't really tell you much about them other than they are incredibly light compared to the three Tang Band 4" drivers I have on my desk (W4-1337SD, W4-1720, and W4-1879). I only read good things about them though so I'm pretty eager to get the boxes done...

[XtremeRevolution]

If you're getting the EL70 you better jump on it quick. I purchased a pair from Meniscus a few weeks ago and was told they are no longer in production, Mark had to order mine right from CSS. It sounds like whatever they have in stock is pretty much all there will be, and you might have to order directly from them. I'm just putting together a quick project with it because I was curious about full range sound and this seemed an inexpensive way to get into it.

I haven't gotten mine running yet so I can't really tell you much about them other than they are incredibly light compared to the three Tang Band 4" drivers I have on my desk (W4-1337SD, W4-1720, and W4-1879). I only read good things about them though so I'm pretty eager to get the boxes done...

Thanks for the tip. I'm still not sure if I want to use them. The response looks like it really rolls off above 10khz. I know it's a full range driver, but the response charts for the other drivers I'm considering don't exhibit that same behavior, or at least not to such a degree. I currently have 2 other drivers that I'm considering:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-3-full-range/
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com...-4-full-range/

Edit: turns out the EL70 is a 4ohm driver, and I'm looking for an 8ohm driver. I'll be choosing one of the above two.

[kmibb]

See what this dude has left.

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...ura-NS3-194-8E

[kmibb]

http://www.zaphaudio.com/smalltest/compare.html

RS100-8 Doesn't look bad. Top end has an F2 spike after 6kHz and an F3 spike at 2kHz and 4.6kHz. Also you'll have to tame the FR spike at 15kHz.

Not sure how audible any of this would be, or how it compares to other fullrange drivers.

This one has a great FR, not the greatest HD though. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-844

[kmibb]

Also want to recommend the Tang Band W3-1723SA 3" Coaxial Midrange. It will be hard to beat at $15. Ludo used it in his Truffle design, which also includes plans for a nice subwoofer.

[jsr]

I'm scrapping the W4-1320 idea. It's just too expensive to get it to sound good. In order to get what I wanted out of it, I ended up with way too many crossover components. The response is just too ragged. I can see it working excellently in a high-crossed 2-way, but I haven't enjoyed working with it so far. I don't see the point in spending $37 on a driver to add another $25-$30 to it in crossover components to flatten it out get some BSC, when I could start with a more expensive Fountek, Fostex, or Mark Audio driver from Madisound and need a much simpler circuit, as well as have a more reliable frequency response to work with. I'm even considering the CSS-EL70.

I'll let you guys know what I end up with.

I did some quick modeling of the W4-1320 about half a year ago and didn't have trouble making a simple circuit to compensate for BSC. The rest of the curve isn't bad with just as light rise at upper frequencies which you'll get with most full range drivers. I don't have working microsoft office right now, or else I'd try to model up the W4-1320 again, but I recall it worked out easily with a very simple circuit.