Hello,
I’ve been lurking around a while and contemplating building some Vince’s VHT’s. My goal is to make some high end sounding speakers for not so much the high end price, along with the satisfaction of building them myself. Never attempted to build any type of speakers myself so I would be relying totally on the DYI write up. I can run a soldering iron, but no nothing about crossovers.
So with saying all that, I have a few questions. I see a compartment in the back of the floor standing speakers for the crossover but no compartment in the back of the center channel. Would I just pick a spot in the center to put my crossover in? Wouldn’t this take away from the volume? The next question I have is what about running wires from one chamber to the next. Can I just drill a hole and run the wire through or does that hole with the wire in it have to be sealed between chambers?
I looked at these years ago and went with the Schumakubins and a Zaph BAMTM center, mostly because of the large size of the Center Channel. You can just put the crossover in the box. Yes, you should seal the wire holes between chambers.
And check on the tweeter availability, it was unavailable for a while.
What would I seal the holes with? And when you add the stock list to your cart it puts in an alternative tweeter. I looked through all the DIY’s and don’t recall those speakers. Do you have a link to the Schumakubins and Zaph BAMTM center?
You'll have to ask forum member Pete Schumacher about the Schumakubin plans. He has some links in his signature line, but not the exact model I built with the Seas tweeter, that matches the BAMTM.
I stuffed mine with Wal Mart pillow stuffing. Crossovers can go inside boxes. You should do some reading about speaker building, all of your basic questions have been answered many times.
No problem. With Pete's design, it's more up-to-date as opposed to the VHT's. You'll be very happy with them. For one who is jumping head-first, may I suggest going here and reading everything under "Resources" at the right of the page:
This can answer a lot of questions. Easy to understand, and it won't take long to read through. I wish Paul's excellent write-up had been available when I was first coming around here over 12 years back now. The "Speaker Building" sticky thread can guide you in the right direction also. But we're still here to help you along your road to DIY speaker nirvana. You'll get much closer to your personal sound-quality goodness with a well-done DIY design than with a vast majority of store-bought offerings. Good luck!
John A.
Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.
"Children play with b-a-l-l-s and sticks, men race, and real men race motorcycles" - John Surtees
Emotiva UPA-2 amp, USP-1 pre-amp, ERC-1 CD player
Yamaha KX-390 HX-Pro cassette deck
Pioneer TX-9500 II tuner
Yamaha YP-211 TT w/Grado GF3E+
Statement Monitors
If you decide to go with the Schumakubins, you should know that they are set up with full baffle step compensation. If you'd like a little less, the solution is as simple as reducing the 10mH inductor to as low as 4mH, and reducing the tweeter padding resistor.
R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
If you decide to go with the Schumakubins, you should know that they are set up with full baffle step compensation. If you'd like a little less, the solution is as simple as reducing the 10mH inductor to as low as 4mH, and reducing the tweeter padding resistor.
Yes, I do like them, but I have not idea what you just said? I assume your talking about the coils of wire in the cross over? And what will full baffle step compensation give me? More bass? Sorry, I'm a little green.
Yes, I do like them, but I have not idea what you just said? I assume your talking about the coils of wire in the cross over? And what will full baffle step compensation give me? More bass? Sorry, I'm a little green.
Baffle step compensation: EQ applied to the crossover that overcomes the the relative bass level drop that occurs when you mount a driver on a narrow baffle and place it out into the room. In smaller rooms, the amount of bass can sound excessive when full baffle step is applied to drivers that can reach below 80Hz.
I built those for my larger living room, and the bass levels there sound about right. I've heard them in smaller rooms and thought that the amount of BSC could be reduced for that application.
R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
Pete,
Thank you for your explination. The room I will be using them in is 1760 cubic feet, and one end is open to another room the same size. Could I just leave the 10mH inductor, set my reciever at 80Hz and let my sub cover the bass below that?
The original design used a HiVi K1 tweeter. The two designs in the link use the SEAS 27TBFC and the RS28A. The A or F version will both work without changes to the XO, as both the A and F version have almost identical low end performance. The only difference would be in the top octave where the F version has a bit more extension.
The center channel djg referenced was Zaph's BAMTM. I don't have a version of a center channel that uses the RS28, though I could model up something relatively quickly.
R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
The center channel djg referenced was Zaph's BAMTM. I don't have a version of a center channel that uses the RS28, though I could model up something relatively quickly.
I think I'm going to use the "F" because of a bit more extension, and yea, if you don't mind modeling something up that would be great! Thanks!
Vince's VHT
![$vboptions[bbtitle]](images/techTalkHeader-leftGray2.jpg)
![$vboptions[bbtitle]](images/techTalkHeaderRepeatGray3.jpg)
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by djg
