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I want to build a cheap computer sub to use with my Madisound RB's. I ordered the Dayton SD215-88 and a Foster plate amp from NHT. WinISD gives me a somewhat flat response curve in a 1.85 ft^3 box with a 1.5x10x15 inch slot port. Anyone have experience with this driver?
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
I am thinking you might not have applied the stock boost as listed here. Are you intending to modify the response?
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
I see, the Foster has a built in bass boost. Which would be easier, compensating for the bass boost in my box design or modifying the plate amp for a flat fr?Comment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
Build it sealed. The +6 db boost at 30hz in 1 cuft will give you a fairly flat response where the F6 is at 40hz or so. Either way be carefull, that amp can easily tear up that driver. 25-30watts is all it needs to reach max excursion. I see no benefit to a ported alignment with a driver with an Fs of 34hz. The amp has the boost and allows for the smaller box and more simple construction.Comment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
+6dB at 35hz isn't that use full in a vented alignment like you started with.
You may be ok with sealed but vented would allow you to play lower(f3) and with more output around fb at least.
I suggest at least modeling a vented box with a bit of boost and using the high pass on the low end as a subsonic filter.Comment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
OK, I figured out how to add eq in WinISD. Adding eq to that driver in a closed box makes it exceed x-max with only a few watts. In a vented box, the bass boost allows me to use a much smaller enclosure (~1 ft^3), while still being able to handle ~25-30 watts before reaching x-max. Getting a flat curve is pretty tricky with this driver, but I don't expect much for $20. My finished sub will still be cheaper then the SUB-80
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
How is this coming along? I am wanting to do the exact same thing as you. I also thought about using the Tang 5 1/4" driver. Which Dayton plate amp do you think would work the best, the 25 watt or the 70 watt? Also, what about a passive radiator instead of a port? Is there any benefits? Please post some pictures when you get it done and let us know what you think.Comment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
I used the 5.25" Neo Tang Band and like the results in a 0.38 cubic foot enclosure, tuned to (I think) somewhere in the low 40's. It gives me a theoretical F3 of about 36 Hz.
The 70 Watt might be a stretch for the little guy - but who knows? Worth a try.
The major advantage of a passive radiator over a port is low tuning in a small enclosure. I first built mine with a 1.5" round port but it was awful noisy. I went with a slot port about 1/2" by 7". Much quieter. Putting a 2-2.5" port in there would have required a not inconsiderable length for the little volume. The slot port doubles as a nifty brace as well, allowing a longer path.Don't listen to me - I have not sold any $150,000 speakers.
https://www.jfcomponents.com/product...range-mid-bass
https://www.jfcomponents.com/product...range-mid-bass
https://www.jfcomponents.com/product...um-cone-wooferComment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
Here's my $50 (OK, $51) sub from last year. I got both the driver and the SA25 plate amp on sale at different times for $19 and $32.
3/4" box, outside H = 15", W = 11", D = 20-3/8", 1.4 cf gross, 1.32 net.
3"id x 16-1/2 port, Fb = 27, F3 = 27.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
The speaker and amp were delivered last week, but I have been out of town from fri-sun. I have this week off and should have my sub built in the next couple of days. I'll try to remember to take some pictures and keep you updated on how the sub works.Comment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
It definately goes LOW. The 25w amp underpowers it, but it's used to fill out the bottom end in the basement w/ a pr of BR-1 clones, so not real loud, but very nice. Most use the SA70 with this driver. I actually made these TB 3"ers (sealed/stuffed) for computer speakers to go with it.
ChrisAttached FilesComment
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Re: Building a cheap computer sub: Dayton SD215-88
OK, finally got around to taking a picture of my new sub. I haven't decided if I'm going to finish it or not, it sits under my desk and I prop my feet on it. I might just cover it with some auto carpet. Total cost for this project was:
Driver: $23
Amp: $32
MDF: $7 for precut 2x4 foot sheet
Total: under $80 after shipping.
The outer dimensions of the sub are 11.5W x 13.5H x 16D, it's a bit larger then I would have liked, but for the sound I think it is worth it. The sub it replaced is shown in the photo as well.
Here's a shot of my computer setup with my Madisound RB speakers. I have a behringer crossover on order as well. The entire setup including the Madisound speakers, sub and crossover totals about $275 (the receiver I'm using was free), and I think it's a pretty killer 2.1 computer setup.
The Dayton sub crushes the one it replaced. It has useful output down to about 30Hz. My old computer sub bottomed out at 40Hz, and was just a boomy, muddy mess. My first impression is that it is just a tad muddy, but after some listening I think either it is breaking in, or I am just getting used to it. Overall, I am very happy with the performance, it is great for gaming, and far better for music then my old sub. I owned the Dayton SUB80 before I upgraded to a DIY Kappa Perfect 12 for my HT. This sub is smaller then the SUB80, and does not have the port noise issue either. Two thumbs up for a super budget sub solution :DComment
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