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  • Altoid
    replied
    You're Welcome!  I am glad to have helped

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  • bsl100
    replied
    Great stuff... And thanks for replying to my queries on your Youtube channel. 

    .

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  • Altoid
    replied
    Originally posted by bsl100 View Post
    Excellent stuff... Build log please. Also, check out the Isetta boombox on Paul Carmody's site.
    Here is is: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ed-voxel-build  Also I just Saw Pauls, new build (Isetta's).  I really like it.  Great way to incorporate this woofer into a 2.1 project.

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  • bsl100
    replied
    Excellent stuff... Build log please. Also, check out the Isetta boombox on Paul Carmody's site.

    Leave a comment:


  • Altoid
    replied
    Originally posted by bsl100 View Post
    All the best with your Voxel build. Will look forward to the build log.
    Thanks, I just finished it last night. here is a sneak peak of it.

    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • bsl100
    replied
    Originally posted by Altoid View Post


    Thank You. I really appreciate that. I am actually building a Voxel sub (self powered) right now. Paul Carmody was concerned that if you put too much power to it, you would get port noise. I would definitely concur with that. I am giving about 35-40w and when it hits hard, you can get port noise. I am thinking of doing another build later with a redesigned box and a slot port to reduce/eliminate that port noise. Having said that, that voxel is a blast to play! Paul Carmody did an excellent job designing it.

    I have used the elder brother of the Voxel sub, the Tang Band W6-1139sif, in a 2.1 boom box with a Bluetooth 2.1 TPA3116D2 based plate amp. Its doing 0.1 duties paired with a Dayton RS100-8 and a B562 Air type AMT-8 tweeter (bought from Aliexpress). The 2.0 have a simple 1st order Butterworth filter. The sub is crossed over at 200Hz. Superb sound all around.

    When I was planning the 2nd Sprite build, I was tempted to do a powered 2.1 with the Voxel sub and Minions III Tang Band full range in one box. But, I was keen on carrying the boombox on my trips and felt that the box shape and weight would be a little tough to carry around.

    All the best with your Voxel build. Will look forward to the build log.

    Leave a comment:


  • bsl100
    replied
    Originally posted by Altoid View Post

    Interesting that you say that. I have been planning to do this for a while now. I may have to give that a shot. I was originally going to add the Peerless BCS25. I still may, but who knows. I love the idea that you used the AMT tweeters, that sounds amazing. Did you put them up on here anywhere? I would love to see your project.
    I haven't put them up. You guys know how to document stuff so well. This is just early days for me. Maybe I'll put it up someday. Unfortunately, PE has stopped stocking the AMT-8 tweeter. These are available on Aliexpress. I used the Soundlink AMT tweeter from there. Don't know whether its okay to link products from other websites here.

     

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  • Altoid
    replied
    Originally posted by bsl100 View Post
    The sound has gone from good boombox type sound to really great. The bass is more defined, the mids are now more clean and the treble has got so much of space and clarity. I'm listening to them with a big grin and can imagine that they would make superb separates. 

    Now to build my own box for them and put all the guts in. My suggestion to all those who started out with the Sprite build, try this out. Its a huge improvement over the Sprite sound, though it adds to the cost as you've got to buy tweeters, extra LPF coils, HPF caps and the L-Pad resistors. But, its worth it.

     
    Interesting that you say that. I have been planning to do this for a while now. I may have to give that a shot. I was originally going to add the Peerless BCS25. I still may, but who knows. I love the idea that you used the AMT tweeters, that sounds amazing. Did you put them up on here anywhere? I would love to see your project.

    Leave a comment:


  • Altoid
    replied
    Originally posted by bsl100 View Post
    Will do... Also, I was looking up a write up on the Minions III and the Voxel sub. It would make a good 2.1 boombpx in about the size of a Sprite enclosure.

    BTW.... I am a subscriber of your Youtube channel. Great stuff for newbies like me. 

    Thank You. I really appreciate that. I am actually building a Voxel sub (self powered) right now. Paul Carmody was concerned that if you put too much power to it, you would get port noise. I would definitely concur with that. I am giving about 35-40w and when it hits hard, you can get port noise. I am thinking of doing another build later with a redesigned box and a slot port to reduce/eliminate that port noise. Having said that, that voxel is a blast to play! Paul Carmody did an excellent job designing it.

    Leave a comment:


  • bsl100
    replied
    Double post

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  • bsl100
    replied
    So, I got hold of the old Paul Carmody Sprite speaker I had built last year and given away to my brother. It was based on a TD7498 bluetooth amp with the Dayton ND90-8 drivers. The Sprite contour filter (BSC) was a 0.9mH coil in parallel to a 16 ohm resister. The plan was to make it into a 2-way speaker with the addition of an AMT-8 tweeter. I thought I'd give it try with the old box before I built a completely new one for me. The tweeter would be placed outside with all the other added components.

    I added the 0.3mH LPF before the BSC on the ND90-8 and a 2.2uF cap on the tweeter. This is a 1st order Solen Split crossover at around 6200 Hz. It gives a 2LR sort of -6db dip at the crossover point. The only difference is that the slopes are like the Butterworth 1st order slope. I padded down the tweeter with a 12db L-Pad (6 ohm resistor in series with 2.7 ohm resistor in parallel).

    The sound has gone from good boombox type sound to really great. The bass is more defined, the mids are now more clean and the treble has got so much of space and clarity. I'm listening to them with a big grin and can imagine that they would make superb separates. 

    Now to build my own box for them and put all the guts in. My suggestion to all those who started out with the Sprite build, try this out. Its a huge improvement over the Sprite sound, though it adds to the cost as you've got to buy tweeters, extra LPF coils, HPF caps and the L-Pad resistors. But, its worth it.

     

    Leave a comment:


  • bsl100
    replied
    Based on your inputs, I was considering these 2 ports (link below). They are tapered ports with 26.33 mm dia inside the enclosure and a flared 35 mm dia outside. The length is 165 mm (usable 155 mm because of the flare).
    Do you have any inputs as to how to how the calculations are done for the dia. Do we consider the opening to the outside 35 mm or the one the one facing the back of the drivers inside 26.33 mm. Do we take an average of the two diameters.The total volume of air will obviously be slightly lower in the tapered port because of conical shape compared to a regular 35 mm dia port..
    I did read up somewhere that a tapered port with a wider opening towards the outside slows the airflow and reduces turbulence / port noise at the cost of efficiency.

    http://www.jantzen-audio.com/wp-cont...Tubes-2017.pdf
    Part #051-0008

    Leave a comment:


  • bsl100
    replied
    Chris.... The Sprite that I built last year had two ports but without a divider. This time I was planning a single port as it was modelling quite well in WinISD. Didn't know about the L-R signals screwing up with the sound and more importantly its action on the drivers. Wish I had got this info earlier before ordering the parts. Looks like the port size and numbers will need to be reordered.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    If you built a sub using a pair of woofers and a single vent, the only way you could end up w/it tuned "properly" would be if both drivers were driven w/the same signal (or if they each had their own port). When you've got L & R (stereo) signals, anytime you've got only one side "driven", the box volume won't be what you targeted (it will twice as big), and it's not impossible for the active driver to modulate the driver that's NOT being driven (at THAT freq. - LIKE a PR) as well as trying to move the air in the box and the slug of air in the port (or, the PR in your case). Seems like one giant tuning mess, to me.

    Not saying that the little boom box can't sound pretty good (esp. compared to commercial stuff), but it's definitely not tuned properly, and could sound better if each driver had its own port or PR. If the bass does sound pretty strong, it's probably extra "distortion". There's no way to tune it (accurately) like that (unless your signal was combined in the band the PR is generating output in).

    Leave a comment:


  • bsl100
    replied
    Will do... Also, I was looking up a write up on the Minions III and the Voxel sub. It would make a good 2.1 boombpx in about the size of a Sprite enclosure.

    BTW.... I am a subscriber of your Youtube channel. Great stuff for newbies like me. 

    Leave a comment:

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