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Sunflower center build begins - and some questions

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  • #76
    I am also thinking of building this center channel out of 3/4" MDF. Is that what you ended up using if so could I get the External dimensions? According to my math from Pauls drawing it required a 877 cubic inch interior based on the 1/2" drawing. Any idea if that is correct?

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    • #77
      Originally posted by cody911911 View Post
      I am also thinking of building this center channel out of 3/4" MDF. Is that what you ended up using if so could I get the External dimensions? According to my math from Pauls drawing it required a 877 cubic inch interior based on the 1/2" drawing. Any idea if that is correct?
      Hey Cody,

      I used half-inch MDF and it was sufficient, given the size and power of these drivers, it was mentioned that 3/4 inch would be a bit overkill. If you are still worried you can do 1/2 inch and do 1 or 2 braces in the middle.

      Now I'm no speaker expert but I really love the sound of this center channel speaker. Loud and clear, with tons of detail. Dialogue comes through crystal clear for movies. Right now I believe it is set to -4 vs the two Amiga towers, since I believe it is pretty powerful in comparison (as it is made to complement the sunflower towers, which are quite a bit louder/ more powerful - those are definitely on my lost to build next)

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      • #78
        yeah I had to get a sheet of 3/4 MDF to replace a sidewall of the amiga's that swelled during shipping, so I was looking to utilize the remainder for this. I'm about 1/2 way through building an Amiga set. I did figure it would be rather overkill, I'm not worried about the structural integrity even with the 1/2'

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        • #79
          Originally posted by cody911911 View Post
          yeah I had to get a sheet of 3/4 MDF to replace a sidewall of the amiga's that swelled during shipping, so I was looking to utilize the remainder for this. I'm about 1/2 way through building an Amiga set. I did figure it would be rather overkill, I'm not worried about the structural integrity even with the 1/2'
          In that case, 3/4 MDF will do just fine; but the overall footprint of the speaker will be slightly larger (1/4 inch or so all around) since you want to try to keep the internal diameter more or less the same (Paul Carmody had stated that as long as you remain within 20% of original design sizing, the sound/performance should remain unaffected)

          Do you have any space restrictions for this speaker where it will be placed?

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          • #80
            have about 48 " wide by 10 inches tall by 15" deep available currently but could move my TV up or may upgrade its size eating up some of that space. I have a TV stand with a floating TV mount that can be set at 4 different heights and takes up to a 55" TV, currently a 42"

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            • #81
              Originally posted by Evan Steeves View Post
              some updates!

              Last night went to Home Depot and bought the 1/2'' MDF stock for the enclosure. Since you get 3 free cuts, I decided to get my front baffle cut. Guy did a nice job of getting dimensions exact. I then went home and put my old Engineering Drawing kit to use :P amazing what tools will come in handy a few years after graduation :D Dayton drivers and the tweeter are a little tight, no? I get that you want to be as close as possible, just hope the flush mount cut-out portion will cut well. Have barely worked with router so far. The router I got has variable speed - should I be setting it faster or slower for clean finishing on MDF?








              Looks like this will be a NICE fit under my TV, between my two Amigas :D




              on the layla mattress coupons


              On a more exciting note, I decided I'd buy a router kit. My dad had a fixed router and I figured it was not sufficient for making nice holes with flush mounting speakers. I found great reviews on this one and on top of it, Lowes has it on sale, plus an additional 5% off sale! So I ordered it online from them;


              https://www.lowes.ca/products/view.aspx?sku=9623272

              Also ordered the Jasper 400 circle jig, and a carbide onsrud straight upcut bit from Lee Valley last week. I should be all set to go now!

              My friend, who owns a gear cutting shop with his bro/dad, offered for us to go one weekend day and do the work there, as it is winter here and I have a condo. Hopefully I will get time in the next two weekends to get it done!
              Thank you, it helps
              Last edited by amy01; 10-24-2018, 10:08 AM.

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              • #82
                After lots of research, I had been set on using Sunflower as a centre to go with a pair of 2nd-hand Amiga's I recently bought, but was looking for a MTM version as the Dayton drivers presently cost ~AU$100 RRP each; this centre speaker will likely cost more than a pair of Amiga's. I found someone else asked the same question (post 44 of Center to go with Amigas - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum (parts-express.com)​ but am convinced to stick with the original design (I've already finished cutting the 3/4" MDF and dry-fit the pieces together).

                I've searched for ages but can't find a more detailed XO parts list ie: which includes capacitor voltages and wire gauge size for inductors. Is there one? I noticed the pre-made XO PCB available from USA on eBay has component numbering, which I assume corresponds with the schematic. The listing also includes the above details (voltage, wire gauge) but can anyone confirm these are the correct values? (I haven't linked the eBay XO PCB in case it's against forum rules). The only parts list I could ever find was the schematic (1st page of this thread, and also in the linked thread above).

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                • #83
                  Originally posted by Basshead View Post
                  After lots of research, I had been set on using Sunflower as a centre to go with a pair of 2nd-hand Amiga's I recently bought, but was looking for a MTM version as the Dayton drivers presently cost ~AU$100 RRP each; this centre speaker will likely cost more than a pair of Amiga's. I found someone else asked the same question (post 44 of Center to go with Amigas - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum (parts-express.com)​ but am convinced to stick with the original design (I've already finished cutting the 3/4" MDF and dry-fit the pieces together).

                  I've searched for ages but can't find a more detailed XO parts list ie: which includes capacitor voltages and wire gauge size for inductors. Is there one? I noticed the pre-made XO PCB available from USA on eBay has component numbering, which I assume corresponds with the schematic. The listing also includes the above details (voltage, wire gauge) but can anyone confirm these are the correct values? (I haven't linked the eBay XO PCB in case it's against forum rules). The only parts list I could ever find was the schematic (1st page of this thread, and also in the linked thread above).
                  Hey Basshead - wow this is a trip down memory lane! I have been running this center channel with my amigas since 2017 with zero issue. I just wish I found time to finish my amigas (veneer etc.) like I did my center channel LOL

                  I would stick with original design if I were you - for the price of two extra drivers, you get a center channel powerful enough to keep up with any 5-channel or 7-channel setup (or just towers), so basically you can upgrade in the future without worrying that the center won't keep up. If you go with simply two Dayton instead of 4 (plus the tweeter) it would change the design and crossovers as well - in that case I would go for another MTM design on this site or parts express - the TriTrix comes to mind, or even the C-note center channel (https://www.parts-express.com/C-Note...142?quantity=1)


                  As for the crossover components and layout design, I posted all the components I purchased on page 1 of this thread, and also a few posts after that I posted the link to Paul Carmody's thread where he put the instructions - here it is again, but I believe Paul Carmody also put all the information on his website (a google search may work):

                  https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...h-amigas/page3

                  Good luck!

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                  • #84
                    Originally posted by Basshead View Post
                    After lots of research, I had been set on using Sunflower as a centre to go with a pair of 2nd-hand Amiga's I recently bought.
                    Though I am the first builder of a Sunflower CC (build thread here somewheres), if I had a set of Amiga's already I would simply build a small sealed Amiga as a center. Fully matched LCR's are a wonderful thing.

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                    • #85
                      Originally posted by rvsixer View Post
                      Though I am the first builder of a Sunflower CC (build thread here somewheres), if I had a set of Amiga's already I would simply build a small sealed Amiga as a center. Fully matched LCR's are a wonderful thing.
                      How would you go about that - build a shorter Amiga but on its side with exact same crossover and only one woofer/tweeter, or add a second woofer? I tend to like symmetry lol, which is why I love my Sunflower CC - and it works great with the Amigas IMO since the cone material is the same - I am not sure there is a benefit matching the tower speakers 100% ie fully matched?

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                      • #86
                        Originally posted by Evan Steeves View Post

                        How would you go about that - build a shorter Amiga but on its side with exact same crossover and only one woofer/tweeter, or add a second woofer? I tend to like symmetry lol, which is why I love my Sunflower CC - and it works great with the Amigas IMO since the cone material is the same - I am not sure there is a benefit matching the tower speakers 100% ie fully matched?
                        Don't do what I did and listen to a truly matching speaker surround system with LCR at the same height behind an AT screen .

                        Anyways I would just make the shortest possible vertical Amiga TM (keeping the cabinet width and driver spacing the same, and using the sealed volume Paul C suggests in his write up). That's as close as one is going to get (short of using another tower as center lol).

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