Trump Tower build

[mattp]

PI, I wish I had as much talent as your pinky finger. Absolutely stunningly gorgeous as usual.

[PassingInterest]

Thank you for the kind words, Kevin and Ambassador Wolf!

[Wolf]

Kevin- find the subwoofer project he did...

Yeah- PI build threads are a resource!
Wolf

[Kevin K.]

Holy Cow you're talented Dan! Beautiful work. Cant wait to see how these speakers turn out. I'll butt out now and let you get back to work!

[PassingInterest]

Don, I really appreciate your assistance with this project. Thanks for the wiring diagram and wiring tips.

[PassingInterest]

Ok, I've just got to ask. Were you a furniture or cabinet maker in another lifetime? I'm looking at all the equipment you have and the stacks of lumber in the background and thinking this couldn't just be for speakers.

Haha! Thanks, Kevin! I've had no formal woodworking training. I'm self-taught and am enjoying a woodworking hobby in my retirement years. You are right, it's not just speakers. I recently designed and built a coffee table for a friend. I've never made a coffee table before, so this was an interesting challenge for me.

Here is the coffee table, before I added the table top.




And here it is complete.

[Kevin K.]

Ok, I've just got to ask. Were you a furniture or cabinet maker in another lifetime? I'm looking at all the equipment you have and the stacks of lumber in the background and thinking this couldn't just be for speakers.

[donradick]

Spent a few hours last weekend pulling them apart and working on a new tweeter crossover for the 10 degree angle.
Not real happy w the results, so I'll repeat the effort.

BTW, I numbered all the drivers from top to bottom, then soldered the wires that all reached down to the crossover board
near the bottom. In retrospect, that added some unnecessary complications .
So make a sketch for the wiring, top to bottom.

Of course, this is just an assembly aid. The proper connections are made to the crossover later.

I suggest that you wire the intermediate connections ( 1 pos to 3 neg) , (4 pos to 5 neg), (6 pos to 7 neg) directly between the
drivers (taking great care with polarity of course). Only wire to the bottom the connections for neg in and pos in.
Makes things simpler later.

And it's easy to make a polarity mistake (at least for me). Get a battery and check each woofer before you close it up.

[PassingInterest]

Thanks, Don! I hope they are as excited about the project as I am!

[donradick]

Looking pretty awesome! There's going to be some happy peeps soon.

[PassingInterest]

With Mrs. Interest.

[PassingInterest]

Here is my clamping scheme. I began by installing the bottom, using Titebond 2. And the port piece got installed on the back, using Rapidfuse superglue for wood and the accelerator mentioned earlier in this thread and just held it in place with my hand for a few seconds.




I did a dry-fit check, to make sure the port was angled properly before gluing the back in place.




Glued and clamped the back in place.




The first cabinet is a little ahead of the others.

[PassingInterest]

Boring a hole in the back for the connector cup.




Marking the screw holes.




One back installed, three braces, one bottom and one slot port. That's as far as I got before I ran out of time for today.

[PassingInterest]

I deliberately oversized the baffle width and length. The width will be trimmed with a router after it is glued onto the cabinet. To trim the length and put a 10 degree bevel on the bottom edge, I first need a straight reference edge along one side.






I tilted the miter saw 10 degrees to cut the lower edge of the baffles. I'll set the saw back to 0 degrees when I cut the other end to length.

[PassingInterest]

KEtheredge87 - Thanks! Documenting with photos is worth the extra time if I am helping others with their projects.

@Passing -

do you ever have problems with your double-thick baffle glueups coming out warped?
The last one I did was a little warped, but I was able to glue to the box just fine.
Wonder how you might check, once the boards are covered with clamps.

I have seen some very slight warping, but it pulls flat when clamped to the cabinet. If I were concerned about it - perhaps because I had some warped stock to begin with I would flatten the baffle when gluing a double or triple layer by either clamping it to my workbench or by using clamping cauls. As for checking for flatness after all the clamps are on - If you can't get a straight edge on the surface or along the edge, because there is just no gap available, it may be worthwhile to remove some clamps long enough for a quick check.

re: braces - sheesh I've built a bunch of boxes, and read about a whole lot of builds, and
no one ever thought to make a window pane brace from scraps. Makes so much sense.

I consider the effort to cut and glue scraps about even with cutting a bunch of holes in a solid work piece to form a brace. But as I said earlier, using up a bunch of scraps instead of cutting new stock for braces appeals to my Inner Cheapskate.