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  • donradick
    replied
    @Passing -

    do you ever have problems with your double-thick baffle glueups coming out warped?
    The last one I did was a little warped, but I was able to glue to the box just fine.
    Wonder how you might check, once the boards are covered with clamps.

    re: braces - sheesh I've built a bunch of boxes, and read about a whole lot of builds, and
    no one ever thought to make a window pane brace from scraps. Makes so much sense.

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  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by PassingInterest View Post
    I should have mentioned that I tend to step things out, to show new woodworkers how to tackle a build project. I hope the details help others without being too annoying for the seasoned woodworkers.
    I also like it spelled out for me! Always helps me learn. I know the amount of time that takes to really detail everything well in mid-build, so thank you for taking the time and effort! This thread looks great!

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Four of six baffles glued to double thickness.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Don - Yeah, I have an insert for 0 and one for 10 degrees. I also have one that is still blank. But, you can spin your zero clearance throat plate around and have a dual purpose insert (two slots).

    My Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is an older model, but if I needed one, I would get this one from Rockler for $29.99.
    Last edited by PassingInterest; 06-10-2017, 11:32 AM.

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  • donradick
    replied
    good tips!

    I made a zero clearance insert for my table saw, but it was setup for 90 degrees.
    Did you make a special zero clearance insert for the 10 degree cut?

    do you have a good source for a good (good value) digital tilt gauge?
    I was recently at HF, and their's was $35 and dubious quality, so I didn't buy it.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Trim the braces to width.

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    Square one end.

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    Tilt the blade to 10 degrees and set the fence for the length needed. Next, place the squared end against the fence and with one pass, you will trim to length and angle one end of your brace. Then flip the brace and run it through again to angle the other end. No need to change anything, just make sure the angled ends are parallel to each other.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    At 6 braces per cabinet x 6 cabinets, I will need a pile of these! At least I get to use up a bunch of cutoffs.

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    Backs, Bottoms, Port Pieces, Sides and Braces. The braces still need to be trimmed to size, though they are close already. I had enough clamps to glue 6 braces at a time. I let them bake in the sun on my tailgate while I cut more brace pieces for the next batch. I did nothing but make braces all day today. The things we do for Killer Audio!

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Don - I am also using 1/2" Baltic Birch for the front baffles (x 2 layers). In fact, the entire cabinet is Baltic Birch, except for the accent pieces, which will be added later. Thanks for reminding me and others to open up the back side of the woofer through-holes, by beveling the holes. I swear I might have forgotten that part if you hadn't reminded me. Too much of a hurry these days! And I am using 6 braces per cabinet.

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  • donradick
    replied
    Thanks for all the woodworking tips!

    A couple of thoughts and questions -

    Are you using 3/4 ply for the baffle?
    I glued up 2 sheets of 1/2 inch BB for my baffles, then relieved a bit on the inside so the woofers could breath.
    You may not need to do that for a 3/4 inch baffle.

    Good move on the braces!
    Did I count right - is it 5 braces? if so, very cool.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I shrunk the slot port a bit, to make things easier for myself. But, I was careful to keep the box tuning the same - 40 Hz. Once I got the bracing layout on one side panel, I transferred the marks from one to another, so I didn't need to re-measure each time. Align the two front edges and make your marks, then align the two rear edges and mark again. Then use a ruler to draw the lines across the panel. Each cabinet needs the braces marked on only one side panel, not both.

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    I am using cutoffs to placate my Inner Cheapskate.

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    Again, set a stop block for multiple cuts.

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    The workpiece was not thick enough to contact the guide bearing, so I set the fence for the cut.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I use a roller stand on the in-feed side and a workbench on the out-feed side when cutting 4x8 or in this case 5x5 sheet goods. I also wear gloves when cutting large sheets to keep splinters out of my hands. Splinters are not usually a problem for me once the pieces are cut, because I don't need to grip the smaller pieces as hard to move them.

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    When the blade is tipped at an angle, the saw's own built in measurement settings are no longer accurate. So I elevate a ruler to the same height as the workpiece to set the length from the fence. Since I am using a crosscut sled and don't want any binding, due to the sled plus the fence, you can set a stop block on the fence...

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    ...Then slide the stop block down the fence, so that it will no longer contact the workpiece once the workpiece contacts the blade. Once it is set, you don't have to move the stop block again for the rest of the cuts.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I cut a template to route all the front baffles. The woofers will be surface mounted, so I only need the through holes routed. The tweeters will be flush mounted, which requires a through hole and a recess. For the tweeters, I made only the 1/8" pilot hole in the template, for marking the tweeter location. Protect your eyes, ears and lungs when cutting MDF. That stuff is nasty.
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    Here is an easy way to quickly and accurately set your table saw blade to any angle, whether your table surface or garage floor is level or not. Use a square to assure your blade is at 0 degrees, then "zero" your digital angle gauge. Make sure yours has a magnet built into the bottom and it will stick to your blade. Once you have zeroed your digital gauge, it will remember your zero position for at least as long as the battery lasts, so you don't have to re-zero it every time.
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    This makes it quick and easy to accurately set your blade to the angle you want.
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  • Evan Steeves
    replied
    Nice build! As an amateur woodworker, I really appreciate you taking the time you take to document your approach to the project. Keep it up!

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  • donradick
    replied
    Oh WOW, SO tempting, but to paraphrase OJ Simpson "I got me 2 (cherry) towers right here"

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    Wow! Where did y'all get the drivers? The original flash sale on "A" sold out very fast.
    I picked up a couple of cases at the unmentionable site and you're right, they sold out fast! I happened to see them available again at the same place for the same price and picked up another two cases, because I was so impressed with your Towers of Terror and they sold out fast again. Since you asked just now, I checked and that same place has 14 cases at the same price again.


    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    Since there is more than a "one off", I'll lean my version back 10 degrees and run some measurements, and tweak the crossover if needed.
    It would be great to see the comparisons! And thanks for going above and beyond for this effort! Feel free to post your results in this thread, if you'd like.


    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    There is going to be some very happy peeps with these
    I have no doubt!


    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    I DO need to set expectations again, though.
    They are SPL limited if not high-passed (no frat party), and may have problems with EDM and T-Rex sounds.
    For "mainline" music and HTR though, they are effortless, thundering, and clear.
    Yes, thanks for reminding us all that while they sound great and have plenty of bass power for most audio uses, they can be over-driven if pushed hard with bass-heavy material, in which case they should be crossed over to a subwoofer.

    Leave a comment:

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