Trump Tower build

[PassingInterest]

Trim the braces to width.




Square one end.




Tilt the blade to 10 degrees and set the fence for the length needed. Next, place the squared end against the fence and with one pass, you will trim to length and angle one end of your brace. Then flip the brace and run it through again to angle the other end. No need to change anything, just make sure the angled ends are parallel to each other.

[donradick]

good tips!

I made a zero clearance insert for my table saw, but it was setup for 90 degrees.
Did you make a special zero clearance insert for the 10 degree cut?

do you have a good source for a good (good value) digital tilt gauge?
I was recently at HF, and their's was $35 and dubious quality, so I didn't buy it.

[PassingInterest]

Don - Yeah, I have an insert for 0 and one for 10 degrees. I also have one that is still blank. But, you can spin your zero clearance throat plate around and have a dual purpose insert (two slots).

My Wixey Digital Angle Gauge is an older model, but if I needed one, I would get this one from Rockler for $29.99.

[PassingInterest]

Four of six baffles glued to double thickness.

[KEtheredge87]

I should have mentioned that I tend to step things out, to show new woodworkers how to tackle a build project. I hope the details help others without being too annoying for the seasoned woodworkers.

I also like it spelled out for me! Always helps me learn. I know the amount of time that takes to really detail everything well in mid-build, so thank you for taking the time and effort! This thread looks great!

[donradick]

@Passing -

do you ever have problems with your double-thick baffle glueups coming out warped?
The last one I did was a little warped, but I was able to glue to the box just fine.
Wonder how you might check, once the boards are covered with clamps.

re: braces - sheesh I've built a bunch of boxes, and read about a whole lot of builds, and
no one ever thought to make a window pane brace from scraps. Makes so much sense.

[PassingInterest]

KEtheredge87 - Thanks! Documenting with photos is worth the extra time if I am helping others with their projects.

@Passing -

do you ever have problems with your double-thick baffle glueups coming out warped?
The last one I did was a little warped, but I was able to glue to the box just fine.
Wonder how you might check, once the boards are covered with clamps.

I have seen some very slight warping, but it pulls flat when clamped to the cabinet. If I were concerned about it - perhaps because I had some warped stock to begin with I would flatten the baffle when gluing a double or triple layer by either clamping it to my workbench or by using clamping cauls. As for checking for flatness after all the clamps are on - If you can't get a straight edge on the surface or along the edge, because there is just no gap available, it may be worthwhile to remove some clamps long enough for a quick check.

re: braces - sheesh I've built a bunch of boxes, and read about a whole lot of builds, and
no one ever thought to make a window pane brace from scraps. Makes so much sense.

I consider the effort to cut and glue scraps about even with cutting a bunch of holes in a solid work piece to form a brace. But as I said earlier, using up a bunch of scraps instead of cutting new stock for braces appeals to my Inner Cheapskate.

[PassingInterest]

I deliberately oversized the baffle width and length. The width will be trimmed with a router after it is glued onto the cabinet. To trim the length and put a 10 degree bevel on the bottom edge, I first need a straight reference edge along one side.






I tilted the miter saw 10 degrees to cut the lower edge of the baffles. I'll set the saw back to 0 degrees when I cut the other end to length.

[PassingInterest]

Boring a hole in the back for the connector cup.




Marking the screw holes.




One back installed, three braces, one bottom and one slot port. That's as far as I got before I ran out of time for today.

[PassingInterest]

Here is my clamping scheme. I began by installing the bottom, using Titebond 2. And the port piece got installed on the back, using Rapidfuse superglue for wood and the accelerator mentioned earlier in this thread and just held it in place with my hand for a few seconds.




I did a dry-fit check, to make sure the port was angled properly before gluing the back in place.




Glued and clamped the back in place.




The first cabinet is a little ahead of the others.

[PassingInterest]

With Mrs. Interest.

[donradick]

Looking pretty awesome! There's going to be some happy peeps soon.

[PassingInterest]

Thanks, Don! I hope they are as excited about the project as I am!

[donradick]

Spent a few hours last weekend pulling them apart and working on a new tweeter crossover for the 10 degree angle.
Not real happy w the results, so I'll repeat the effort.

BTW, I numbered all the drivers from top to bottom, then soldered the wires that all reached down to the crossover board
near the bottom. In retrospect, that added some unnecessary complications .
So make a sketch for the wiring, top to bottom.

Of course, this is just an assembly aid. The proper connections are made to the crossover later.

I suggest that you wire the intermediate connections ( 1 pos to 3 neg) , (4 pos to 5 neg), (6 pos to 7 neg) directly between the
drivers (taking great care with polarity of course). Only wire to the bottom the connections for neg in and pos in.
Makes things simpler later.

And it's easy to make a polarity mistake (at least for me). Get a battery and check each woofer before you close it up.

[Kevin K.]

Ok, I've just got to ask. Were you a furniture or cabinet maker in another lifetime? I'm looking at all the equipment you have and the stacks of lumber in the background and thinking this couldn't just be for speakers.