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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    It can be difficult to remove the disc from the hole saw if you cut all the way through in one plunge. Instead, cut most of the way through, then flip it over and finish the cut from the other side. Just make sure you cut deep enough for the drill bit to leave a hole on the other side.

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    Removing this from the hole saw is easy.

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    The same is true for the thinner disks.

    Tip: If you are scorching the wood and it is smoking and you are fighting the cut - stop and sharpen the teeth on your hole saw. I removed the hole saw from the drill press and held it in my hand and used a cut-off disc in a Dremel to sharpen each tooth. It cut effortlessly after that and no more smoke or scorched wood.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Most of the Red Oak that I want to use on the next pair is not cupped so badly as these. If I start jointing and planing these as is, I will lose more thickness than I'd like. So, these will get ripped down the center before jointing and planing. If I needed this width, I could rejoin them after the other operations.
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    Back to the Mahogany panels - Clamping one panel at a time and using the router template to spread out the clamping pressure.

    Tip: If you have trouble with your panel sliding around when you apply the clamps and you don't want to shoot any nails to mar the panels, you can sprinkle a little salt on the cabinet. The grains of salt will dig in and stop the panel from sliding, then dissolve before the glue sets up completely, without harming the glue any.
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    Mostly done with the cabinet.
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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    ultimatemerts - I'm not sure what you mean.

    a3cervo - Thank you for the kind words!

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
    Dan, I'm looking at that last photo and the reflection of the "G" is pretty impressive. Could you share your process and finishing materials for the sidewalls? Also, did you polish them? Thanks.
    Thanks, Kevin! I hope you enjoyed MWAF. Sorry I couldn't make it. It would have been cool to hook up there.

    I always worry that I am taking too many pictures and providing too much detail, so I don't have much to share on these Mahogany panels. I'll go into more detail with the next ones, which will be Red Oak. The finish I used was Minwax Oil Modified Water Based Polyurethane and yes, I polished the panels. Sorry for the lack of details, but stay tuned and I'll go into the finishing process later.

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  • a3cervo
    replied
    Wow! very good woodworking, I really appreciate the step by step build logs and tips. Subscribed.

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  • ultimateherts
    replied
    Does the sound comb over the top? Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Dan, I'm looking at that last photo and the reflection of the "G" is pretty impressive. Could you share your process and finishing materials for the sidewalls? Also, did you polish them? Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Originally posted by ani_101 View Post
    very nice, the contrast between the the two woods is strking alongwith that gloss finish.... band saw for cutting out the G?
    Thanks, ani_101! Yes, I used the band saw to cut out the G, then did some smoothing on the bench top belt/spindle sander.

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  • ani_101
    replied
    very nice, the contrast between the the two woods is strking alongwith that gloss finish.... band saw for cutting out the G?

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Thanks, Don!

    One of my wife's friends has a daughter who is getting married very soon. I was asked to make this for the occasion. The Cross is Walnut, as is the G, on an Oak plywood backing, surrounded by a Mahogany frame. I cut a Keyhole Slot in the back to facilitate hanging it on a wall.

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  • donradick
    replied
    Wow, those mahogany boards look beautiful!
    they are going to make the whole visual impression pop.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Fade to black.

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    Mahogany bases to go under the pair of speakers.

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    Mahogany side panels for one speaker pair. No stains or tints have been used. Not yet, anyway. I might darken them just a little later. Maybe.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    What is under that caul that you are clamping to?
    The workbench. I placed waxed paper on the workbench. Clamping to it was only temporary, as I kept moving the caul to the next clamping position. I also placed waxed paper under the caul itself. Once all the strips were clamped together, I moved the half-panel off the workbench and started on the next piece.

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  • donradick
    replied
    Thanks again for some great assembly tips.
    I never thought about sliding the caul down the length, clamping as I go.

    But I always thought that a good caul needed to be on both sides.
    What is under that caul that you are clamping to?

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
    Do you use biscuits or dowels or do you find them unnecessary when using the cauls?
    I often use biscuits, but I didn't this time. In addition to helping with board alignment, biscuits also strengthen a joint. Since these panels will be glued to the cabinets, I didn't think I needed the extra strength from the biscuits. And yes, you are right - the clamping cauls took care of the alignment for me, so again, biscuits were unnecessary.

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