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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Those are some serious clamps, bet they didn't come cheap!

    It's hard to believe how quick you are moving through these, I'm feeling really really slow now.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Tops glued and clamped.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Thanks, Don!

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  • donradick
    replied
    You made that bendable top piece routing look easy....
    And it was, once you had the proper jigs in place!

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Clamp the stationary base in place.

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    Place the sliding base on the stationary base.

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    Plunge and slide across the cabinet.

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    Clean and square.

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    I thought I got a shot of the same procedure, routing across the top edge, but I guess I forgot.

    I also ran the baffles through the planer to match the thickness of the triple-stack bendable plywood. I just shaved a little thickness off the backside of the front baffles.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Now I need to square the edge to the cabinet, for both the front of the cab and the top - the upper and lower edges of the curve.

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    I need a base that I can clamp to the cabinet, which is square to the cabinet.

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    The stationary base is okay and I am off to a good start on the router's sliding base, but it needs more stability.

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    Now the router's sliding base is stable.

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    All that remains is to rub waxed paper on the sliding surfaces on the movable base and the stationary base so the router glides smoothly across the cabinet as it cuts.

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  • donradick
    replied
    Interesting video - thanks!
    I'd always assumed that you routed the curve side to side a little at a time.
    Instead, it looks like you routed down to the final curve in one pass, bottom to top.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I now have 3-layer curves on all 6 cabinets, which is a nearly perfect match to a 2-layer stack of half-inch Baltic Birch.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I added some additional support for The Curve. If I need to apply a lot of glue and move fast, a pancake syrup bottle flows faster than the branded glue bottle. I use both in different applications.

    My clamping scheme for the curve - First, I clamped some stock across the top rear (foreground) and across the bottom front (background) using red C-clamps, to receive the hooks on the ratcheting straps without damaging the cabinet. I also drew a pencil line (lowest cross-brace covered in glue) to line up my work piece, which I held in place and shot two small nails (brads). But, that's another photo.

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    I kind of got ahead of myself. I thought I got a photo of the very next step. Just before tightening the straps, the bendable plywood is held in place across the bottom by two small nails (brads). The brads can't hold the work piece once you get some serious pressure on the straps. So, I pulled the slack out of the straps, then clamped some stock across the lower edge of the bendable plywood to lock it down in place. Then I tightened the straps.

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    I don't know how well you can see it, but I slipped a board under the Ratchets, so they won't chew up the cabinet when I tighten the straps.

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    This method was nearly perfect. I just have a slight gap along this edge. This is easy to address.

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    This closes the gap.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Now for the tweeter recess. With the power off, plunge the router down until the bit just touches the surface. Use the tweeter flange to set the depth of cut, then route the recess.

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    Then cut the through-hole.

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    Ready for a test fit.

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    It looks as it should.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Removing the nails is easy this way.

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    Open up the back of the woofer through-holes a bit, so the woofers can breathe.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    I added some support for the curved front piece. I've got some bendable plywood, which when triple stacked, is barely thicker than a double stack of the 1/2" Baltic Birch. It is nearly a perfect match. I can sand it to even it out.

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    A starter-hole before routing the woofer through-holes.

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    Use a slow feed-rate and slow down even more just before you cut the middle piece loose, then stop and turn off your router and remove the middle piece. This is to avoid kicking the loose middle piece and sending it flying.

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    Then you can safely finish the last of the cut.

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  • PassingInterest
    replied
    Wow, thank you so very much for the kind words, MattP, Kevin and Ambassador Wolf! Kevin - We will have to get together when we can!

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  • Wolf
    replied
    I'm not crazy about the tree-grille, but elsewise- that monster is beautiful!

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    Kevin- find the subwoofer project he did...

    Yeah- PI build threads are a resource!
    Wolf
    Thanks Ben, I found it!!! You would need a freakin crane to move that thing! Just had a chance to look at the photo album from Dan's AVS Forum signature, everything he does looks like a million bucks! Cool thing is he lives fairly close.

    Man I would love to see and hear some of this stuff up close. Wouldn't mind picking your brain on finishing techniques as well. If you're game, perhaps sometime right after MWAF, lunch for you and Mrs. Interest would be on me.

    Ok, here I go derailing your thread again. Sorry for that. Please proceed Sir.

    Leave a comment:

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