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Purrsay - Silverline
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Too late.
I was thinking of structure strength at the time!
Still closer than if they were round.
I'm running black spacers between them after a veneer is applied on the removable baffel.
Space is about 1/2" between each driver when done.
Screws are temp., No black pans in the area.
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The speakers are fairly liow profile.
I finally decided on a simple base stand for tilt.
All that is needed.
It will be seperate, slightly larger than the speaker.
It will raise the front to the top edge inside the stand.
It will have a vibration damping inside and some very small rubberized feet underneath the stand also.
It will collect a little dust. Super easy to vacuum, anyway.
Well happy to finally have it all together soon.
Should have some pics when glued in a couple weeks.
I don't have a shop area, so it's a big ordeal to gather everything, in n out cutting!!
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Ya, it's ok. Takes a bit getting use to. There just 3/4 in. The tweeter uses a size smaller screw head. Well, nothing special or complicated for my first build, but my first cabinet is dry fit. I have just enough wood for my Left/Right. Short a bit of wood on my stand bases and center support. So Im going to copy the supports n cut for the R. Find clamps (not cheap!!) for glueing. Figure the crossover out on P.C in a couple weeks. Finish the veneer etc. after I have a working passive crossover.1 Photo
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I've used that Peerless buyout woofer a couple of times. Really great sounding woofer with excellent sensitivity. It could easily match up to the silky in an MTM without a midrange driver. Its only short coming is that it won't extend very low in frequency. LouC used it in about 22 Liters in his Lecbos project with a F3 of about 70 Hz. I recently used it in an MTM in 17 liters with about the same F3. I matched it up with the Dayton Audio ND25FW tweeter. Awesome sounding speakers for very little money. I'd publish my design but the woofer is no long available :( wish I could buy 100 more of them...Craig
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol.
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Yee, it' can be hard to find dual drivers with high sensitivity. Unless in parallel.
Im not sure how the sensitivity can match the tweeter yet. Maybe I will learn more once in a a simulation software.Since there is a loss of bass db below a 1000 Hz.
The mid does linee up with the tweeter. Problem is in the low end its db is around 86. Crossed around 550hz and that's down, more. So some type of gain and/or baffel step will be needed.
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Everything is about ready for gluing. Final touches. Whenever I get around to buying the clamps! I decided on a very simple and cheap stand for the L/R speakers. Basically where the plate of wood is shown in the image. Home Depot sells square metal tubing that I will be filling with some type of filler to cement screw/bolt in place for a removable stand base. It will thread to the underneath of the speaker wihere the bolt nuts are embedded. Special feet also on the bottom. Center, very last. I may cut it down. It has to fit upright under a TV and will be on a very thin pad base slightly angled upright to the listener. Looking good. Happy so far how it's going to look. Sound a ways off!1 Photo
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Not much exciting. It's an eclipse of my speaker!!! :/ Was a cool sight. Broke down, got some various clamps for gluing. $30 bucks in clamps. The small Bessel was about $10. If I purchased at Home Depot Bessy for these sizes would have cost around $100. So good to see some close alternatives. The Bessy does work vvery well. Thought I'd get er done soon so I can do some crossover modeling. Fall is close. Hopefully I can finish by then.1 Photo
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My baffel needs a 1/16 shaved from bottom.
It doesn't fit!! Know wonder. Home Depot has a $15,000 dollar saw. Some cuts we're off. Not a big deal. Wasn't expecting it for a first build. Yes extra work. My fault for not double checking the real size after cut!!
I noticed in a video where they assembled a kit. Like same size. Same braces. I put mine one against the top and bottom though and center. I guess I was thinking resonance as spread the braces out.
I was thinking corners. I could run bolts. Probably won't need to.
Don't under estimate the power of the glue!! That's some seriously strong stuff!!
Or the weight of the speaker.
It's ok for this build. I would be scared to build something larger and move the weight around.
This is 3/4 not 1"!!!
I still have to glue center odds and ends for the first speaker. I like the height. Perfect.
Yep looks like I'm going to chop the center down. It's a hair too tall for a vertical center.2 Photos
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I don't need stands. I just slide a 3/4" thick piece of MDF and the tilt is enough. Saves money! Not sure about resonance but I was thinking of wrapping a piece of MDF with rubber then a matching material color for the speaker
If that's problem I will just use a thin piece of metal with rubber feet. So simple!! Works..
Just gluing my 2nd speaker.
I can only find 2" Allen screws in my area.
May need 3" not sure yet.
Need to glue the screw supports in next.
About it. Except the crossover.
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Well started the bolt support/sinks.
A specialty screw in the 4 corners with TNuts.
Very secure. I will be looking for a decorative L bracket that I want to extend from the side to the front. This is where I will use the P.E. Allen wood screws for added sealing/securing with the removable baffel.
Basically it. I just have to get one more small piece of MDF to cut some strips for under the baffel plate, odds n ends for the 3rd speaker before the Winter hits. There's a 1/4" space on the L/R of the baffel sides for trim. Some sanding, sealing it.
All the rest will be from P E., crossover parts, veneer, padding and Allen screws. So I have time to get some pc crossover going before Holiday season.
I was looking at some Triad 6ft LCR's . I decide to keep the center channel the same vertical orientation. I would only have saved up to a foot than my other thought. Not bad height for most TVs
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