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Purrsay - Silverline

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  • thekorvers
    replied
    Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post
    I've used that Peerless buyout woofer a couple of times. Really great sounding woofer with excellent sensitivity. It could easily match up to the silky in an MTM without a midrange driver. Its only short coming is that it won't extend very low in frequency. LouC used it in about 22 Liters in his Lecbos project with a F3 of about 70 Hz. I recently used it in an MTM in 17 liters with about the same F3. I matched it up with the Dayton Audio ND25FW tweeter. Awesome sounding speakers for very little money. I'd publish my design but the woofer is no long available :( wish I could buy 100 more of them...
    By the way, I calculated the efficiency of the woofer to be somewhere around 90.6 dB, higher than PE's specs. I think a silky will be just able to match up in an MT or MTM.

    In a 17 liter net enclosure, tuned to 57 Hz, I see an f3 of 54 Hz. This is in an alignment using parameters which are an average of 4 tested units.

    Where does your f3 of 70 Hz come from? Is this calculated or tested? What parameters did you use?

    Leave a comment:


  • thekorvers
    replied
    Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post
    I've used that Peerless buyout woofer a couple of times. Really great sounding woofer with excellent sensitivity. It could easily match up to the silky in an MTM without a midrange driver. Its only short coming is that it won't extend very low in frequency. LouC used it in about 22 Liters in his Lecbos project with a F3 of about 70 Hz. I recently used it in an MTM in 17 liters with about the same F3. I matched it up with the Dayton Audio ND25FW tweeter. Awesome sounding speakers for very little money. I'd publish my design but the woofer is no long available :( wish I could buy 100 more of them...
    Always a good idea to publish a design. There are plenty of those floating around or sitting on shelves somewhere. I think I may even have a pair somewhere. Just basic information of size, driver location, tuning etc. is enough for most people.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Just finished the bracing on 2 LCR's I decided to keep the center the same. Maybe with an optional baffel and top mounted tweeter for use as a horizontal. I have to cut all the supports for the last LCR. Whenever. No veneer or final touches until I get the working crossover. Next in line. Alll the rest can be done indoors now. Lots of time before the holidays this Winter. The drivers I have left will be used as surrounds. 2, 6.5" 8ohm HDS, 4, 4.5" PPB Peerless 4ohm. I would have to find 4, 4ohm silk dome tweets. Dayton does have them. Better order soon!! There goes my full driver stash!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Well started the bolt support/sinks.
    A specialty screw in the 4 corners with TNuts.
    Very secure. I will be looking for a decorative L bracket that I want to extend from the side to the front. This is where I will use the P.E. Allen wood screws for added sealing/securing with the removable baffel.
    Basically it. I just have to get one more small piece of MDF to cut some strips for under the baffel plate, odds n ends for the 3rd speaker before the Winter hits. There's a 1/4" space on the L/R of the baffel sides for trim. Some sanding, sealing it.
    All the rest will be from P E., crossover parts, veneer, padding and Allen screws. So I have time to get some pc crossover going before Holiday season.
    I was looking at some Triad 6ft LCR's . I decide to keep the center channel the same vertical orientation. I would only have saved up to a foot than my other thought. Not bad height for most TVs
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Rain day. I think it's flood warning!! L/R ready for baffel screws/supports. Sanding touches. They have some weight. IDK about 50lbs each. Not bad!! Finally ready to get to the PC for the crossover soon.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    I don't need stands. I just slide a 3/4" thick piece of MDF and the tilt is enough. Saves money! Not sure about resonance but I was thinking of wrapping a piece of MDF with rubber then a matching material color for the speaker
    If that's problem I will just use a thin piece of metal with rubber feet. So simple!! Works..
    Just gluing my 2nd speaker.
    I can only find 2" Allen screws in my area.
    May need 3" not sure yet.
    Need to glue the screw supports in next.
    About it. Except the crossover.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    My baffel needs a 1/16 shaved from bottom.
    It doesn't fit!! Know wonder. Home Depot has a $15,000 dollar saw. Some cuts we're off. Not a big deal. Wasn't expecting it for a first build. Yes extra work. My fault for not double checking the real size after cut!!
    I noticed in a video where they assembled a kit. Like same size. Same braces. I put mine one against the top and bottom though and center. I guess I was thinking resonance as spread the braces out.
    I was thinking corners. I could run bolts. Probably won't need to.
    Don't under estimate the power of the glue!! That's some seriously strong stuff!!
    Or the weight of the speaker.
    It's ok for this build. I would be scared to build something larger and move the weight around.
    This is 3/4 not 1"!!!
    I still have to glue center odds and ends for the first speaker. I like the height. Perfect.
    Yep looks like I'm going to chop the center down. It's a hair too tall for a vertical center.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Not much exciting. It's an eclipse of my speaker!!! :/ Was a cool sight. Broke down, got some various clamps for gluing. $30 bucks in clamps. The small Bessel was about $10. If I purchased at Home Depot Bessy for these sizes would have cost around $100. So good to see some close alternatives. The Bessy does work vvery well. Thought I'd get er done soon so I can do some crossover modeling. Fall is close. Hopefully I can finish by then.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Everything is about ready for gluing. Final touches. Whenever I get around to buying the clamps! I decided on a very simple and cheap stand for the L/R speakers. Basically where the plate of wood is shown in the image. Home Depot sells square metal tubing that I will be filling with some type of filler to cement screw/bolt in place for a removable stand base. It will thread to the underneath of the speaker wihere the bolt nuts are embedded. Special feet also on the bottom. Center, very last. I may cut it down. It has to fit upright under a TV and will be on a very thin pad base slightly angled upright to the listener. Looking good. Happy so far how it's going to look. Sound a ways off!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Yee, it' can be hard to find dual drivers with high sensitivity. Unless in parallel.
    Im not sure how the sensitivity can match the tweeter yet. Maybe I will learn more once in a a simulation software.Since there is a loss of bass db below a 1000 Hz.
    The mid does linee up with the tweeter. Problem is in the low end its db is around 86. Crossed around 550hz and that's down, more. So some type of gain and/or baffel step will be needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • PWR RYD
    replied
    I've used that Peerless buyout woofer a couple of times. Really great sounding woofer with excellent sensitivity. It could easily match up to the silky in an MTM without a midrange driver. Its only short coming is that it won't extend very low in frequency. LouC used it in about 22 Liters in his Lecbos project with a F3 of about 70 Hz. I recently used it in an MTM in 17 liters with about the same F3. I matched it up with the Dayton Audio ND25FW tweeter. Awesome sounding speakers for very little money. I'd publish my design but the woofer is no long available :( wish I could buy 100 more of them...

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    I guess you could really fly through some simple designs, quickly.
    If another build, I will do it will in 3d modeling for a more complex system.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    Ya, it's ok. Takes a bit getting use to. There just 3/4 in. The tweeter uses a size smaller screw head. Well, nothing special or complicated for my first build, but my first cabinet is dry fit. I have just enough wood for my Left/Right. Short a bit of wood on my stand bases and center support. So Im going to copy the supports n cut for the R. Find clamps (not cheap!!) for glueing. Figure the crossover out on P.C in a couple weeks. Finish the veneer etc. after I have a working passive crossover.

    Leave a comment:


  • dynamo
    replied
    Originally posted by Sigil View Post
    Screws are temp., No black pans in the area.
    I might be in the minority on this but I like nickel or stainless screws on black frames..

    Leave a comment:


  • Sigil
    replied
    The speakers are fairly liow profile.
    I finally decided on a simple base stand for tilt.
    All that is needed.
    It will be seperate, slightly larger than the speaker.
    It will raise the front to the top edge inside the stand.
    It will have a vibration damping inside and some very small rubberized feet underneath the stand also.
    It will collect a little dust. Super easy to vacuum, anyway.
    Well happy to finally have it all together soon.
    Should have some pics when glued in a couple weeks.
    I don't have a shop area, so it's a big ordeal to gather everything, in n out cutting!!

    Leave a comment:

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