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Dayton Diy Soundbar

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  • Dayton Diy Soundbar

    I have a living room that had a really cheap Samsung sound bar that we picked up with a gift card a few years back. But I have always wanted to design and build a soundbar from scratch. So recently I did just that.

    Goal: Is to have a soundbar that sounds great and is compact for most living rooms. I also wanted it to be aesthetically pleasing. With this is mind, I wanted it about 4" in height and length 36" or shorter. I also didn't really want frequencies below 90hz, as I planned to use a separate subwoofer with it. With those design goals in mind, I started picking out the drivers.2 x

    Parts Used:

    4x Dayton ND65-8
    2x Dayton ND25FA-4
    Dayton 2x15 Amp (I may upgrade this, but I had this on hand)

    Crossover Parts:
    (2) 3ohm
    (2) 4.7ohm
    (2) 5.1ohm
    (2) 0.82ohm

    (2) 0.13
    (2) 0.35
    (2) 0.38 (substitute 0.37)

    Capacitors: (you can substitute electrolytic if on a budget, but it is not recommended)
    (2) 10uf
    (2) 4.7uf
    (2) 17uf
    (2) 22uf

    Materials Used:
    1/4" MDF (doubled in the speaker enclosure)
    1/4" Walnut Baffle (doubled in the speaker enclosure)

    Build Video:
    Last edited by Altoid; 01-02-2018, 12:10 AM.
    All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel

  • #2
    Build Plans:

    All material used is 1/4" thick. I used both MDF for the entire box, minus the front baffle. For that I used Walnut. You may use any material you think is best for you.

    Cut List:
    Outer Box
    Top and Bottom (2): 36"x4"
    Sides (2): 3 1/8" x 4"

    Rear Baffle:
    Back (1): 35 1/2" by 3 1/8"
    Rear Inner Sides (2): 12" x 3 1/8"

    Front Baffle:
    Front (1): 35.5" x 3 1/8"
    Front Inner Sides (2): 12" x 3 1/8"

    Inner Braces: All are 3 1/8" tall
    (4) 3/4" by 1/2"
    (4) 3" by 1/4"
    (2) 3 1/2" by 1/4"
    (4) 1" by 1/4"

    First Glue the outer box together by attaching the 36 x 4 to the two sides 3 1/8 x 4.

    Next Prepare your rear baffle. You need to cut 2 holes in the rear middle chamber. This is to help take the rear baffle off if you need to get into it. It also allows for ventilation if you put an internal amp in that chamber. The holes will be 1" big and will be place approximately 17" from either side and 1 9/16" down. You will also want to glue on the rear pieces (12 x 3 1/8) to either side of the baffle.

    For the front baffle, you will want to cut out the tweeter hole first (before gluing anything). Measure approximately 5 25/32" over (both sides) and 1 9/16 down on your front baffle (35.5 x 3 1/8) and cut a 2 3/4" hole. Then round this over with a 1/4 roundover bit. Now glue the rest of the front baffle on (12 x 3 1/8) which will be placed on the rear of the front baffle (opposite of the roundover). Measure again 5 25/32 over and 1 9/16 down and cut out a 45mm hole for the rear of the tweeter. At this time you will cut the woofer holes out at 2 1/4" and 9 1/4" over and 1 9/16" down. The holes are 2 1/2. Once this is complete, you can roundover your woofer holes with a 3/8" roundover bit.

    Now we need to start bracing the box. The best thing to do at this time is to temporarily put the front baffle on to line up the braces. Do not glue the front baffle on. Take your two 3 1/2" braces out and glue them at 12". They will slide right against the the front baffle that is sticking out 1/4" higher.

    You now have three boxes, 2 speaker boxes on either side and a center box for crossover components and or an amplifier. Take the four 3" pieces and glue them on either side of the inside of the speaker boxes. These will slide all the way against the front baffle.

    Now we need something to screw the speakers to. For this we will sure the four 3/4" by 1/2" pieces. Glue the on the inner side, in the rear. They should be 1/2" from the edge (ie line up with the 3" piece you just glued in). When you assemble, this is what you will screw your screws in.

    The last two braces (1") can go wherever you want. I placed them approximately, 1.5" from the rear of the enclosure at 5" and 7" from the side. This should be near the tweeter hole. Try to save room so you can still get to the screws on the back of the woofer.

    Now attach your speakers. I attach the woofers first, then the tweeter. If you plan to externally power this, run some binding posts. These typically go in the middle compartment, which means you will need to run a hole for the speaker wire. Once you have it run, solder it to the speakers. And fill the hole with either self expanding gorilla glue or hot glue. Now it is time to build the crossover.

    When finished, glue on the front and screw on the back. The fire it up to listen. Enjoy!

    Theoretical Response:

    Final Picture: Final Picture:
    Last edited by Altoid; 09-26-2017, 12:05 AM.
    All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel


    • #3
      Nice, looks like you nailed the xover. I'm wondering how long before my youngest daughter asks for something similar for the condo she is buying next week.
      It is estimated that one percent of the general population are psychopaths - New Criminologist: Understanding Psychopaths


      • #4
        Thanks Matt! I have worked a long time at that crossover. I think it is pretty much where I want it. I may still do a few tweaks. And don't worry, I'll have the schematics and the crossover design out when I am completely satisfied with it, that way you can build one for your daughter ;)
        All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel


        • #5
          It looks great!
          Sealed or ported?
          And.. how does it sound? :-)


          • #6
            That's awesome! I wish we saw more soundbars. I'd like to do something similar but incorporate a third center channel as a center.


            • #7
              That's awesome. I wish we saw more soundbars. I'd like to do something similar but incorporate a third center channel as a center.


              • #8
                Originally posted by Audiotorium View Post
                It looks great!
                Sealed or ported?
                And.. how does it sound? :-)

                It is sealed. Each side is about 12 inches long. I'll post some technical drawings soon as well as a crossover schematic. I'll try to get that out to you guys next week.
                All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel


                • #9
                  Looks really classy.

                  Extra points for the NES and the 7-up!


                  • #10
                    +1, what miau said above. Very classy and might be just right for my home. can't wait to see the schematic and x-over.
                    If life were fair, Elvis would still be alive today and all the impersonators would be dead.
                    ~ Johnny Carson

                    Bungelow Ed's Photo Album


                    • #11
                      The crossover is very simple. You will be surprised. I do not believe I will be doing anything else to the crossover. I'll have that out along with a build video in a few days.
                      All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel


                      • #12
                        This would make a very nice gift for someone this christmas. I just bought a jasper jig i may try it.

                        It's amazing that a 2.5 inch speaker sounds like anything but a toy.


                        • #13
                          Thanks for sharing your work, I love it. kind of fun to see these little woofers get some use. They make that tweeter look huge.

                          Well done you should be proud.


                          • #14
                            Thanks guys! I just finished The video tutorial which has the crossover in it. I'll try to post some pore after work tonight.

                            All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel


                            • #15
                              Updated with build plans and parts list.
                              All about Speaker Design YouTube Channel