I have a living room that had a really cheap Samsung sound bar that we picked up with a gift card a few years back. But I have always wanted to design and build a soundbar from scratch. So recently I did just that.
Goal: Is to have a soundbar that sounds great and is compact for most living rooms. I also wanted it to be aesthetically pleasing. With this is mind, I wanted it about 4" in height and length 36" or shorter. I also didn't really want frequencies below 90hz, as I planned to use a separate subwoofer with it. With those design goals in mind, I started picking out the drivers.2 x
Parts Used:
4x Dayton ND65-8
2x Dayton ND25FA-4
Dayton 2x15 Amp (I may upgrade this, but I had this on hand)
Crossover Parts:
Resistors:
(2) 3ohm
(2) 4.7ohm
(2) 5.1ohm
(2) 0.82ohm
Inductors:
(2) 0.13
(2) 0.35
(2) 0.38 (substitute 0.37)
Capacitors: (you can substitute electrolytic if on a budget, but it is not recommended)
(2) 10uf
(2) 4.7uf
(2) 17uf
(2) 22uf
Materials Used:
1/4" MDF (doubled in the speaker enclosure)
1/4" Walnut Baffle (doubled in the speaker enclosure)
Build Video:
Goal: Is to have a soundbar that sounds great and is compact for most living rooms. I also wanted it to be aesthetically pleasing. With this is mind, I wanted it about 4" in height and length 36" or shorter. I also didn't really want frequencies below 90hz, as I planned to use a separate subwoofer with it. With those design goals in mind, I started picking out the drivers.2 x
Parts Used:
4x Dayton ND65-8
2x Dayton ND25FA-4
Dayton 2x15 Amp (I may upgrade this, but I had this on hand)
Crossover Parts:
Resistors:
(2) 3ohm
(2) 4.7ohm
(2) 5.1ohm
(2) 0.82ohm
Inductors:
(2) 0.13
(2) 0.35
(2) 0.38 (substitute 0.37)
Capacitors: (you can substitute electrolytic if on a budget, but it is not recommended)
(2) 10uf
(2) 4.7uf
(2) 17uf
(2) 22uf
Materials Used:
1/4" MDF (doubled in the speaker enclosure)
1/4" Walnut Baffle (doubled in the speaker enclosure)
Build Video:
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