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TB/SB, an active compact(ish) 3-way using the Tang Band W6-1139SIF

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  • TB/SB, an active compact(ish) 3-way using the Tang Band W6-1139SIF

    https://flic.kr/s/aHskzTwXMV

  • #2
    That is a great looking speaker.
    I have a few of those subs and want to buils something with them at some future point, but will have to be passive for me ;-)
    Great job.
    Andy.

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    • #3
      Do you have an impedance curve measurement for that bass driver in that slot-ported enclosure?
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #4
        They came out really nice Mike.
        I love that speaker recess tool..... Um, I mean milling machine!
        They came out great.

        Once you get these dialed in, I'd love to hear about your thoughts on the slot port and if things worked out as you intended/what changes you may have considered making if you did it again.
        I love the effort, it's a great looking speaker!

        TomZ
        Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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        • #5
          WinISD will do a simmed Z-plot (unless you want to know how close he hit his tuning?).

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
            Do you have an impedance curve measurement for that bass driver in that slot-ported enclosure?

            Hi Brian. I've read a bunch of your site over the years. Thanks for posting. My first thought on reading your question was "uh-oh..."

            Here's what I've got. Impedance is well below 2 ohms at the tuning frequency. Hmph...
            I played with a bunch of different variations on the box volume, port shape, length, etc and with the exception of a sealed box I consistently get real low impedance.

            For what it's worth (if anything) I'm driving with a Rotel RMB-1066



            Last edited by TrickyMike; 01-20-2018, 10:18 AM.

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            • #7
              If THAT's "WinISD", I'll wager that your T/S parms table has an "Re" value of (near) zero !
              Put in 3.6ohms and you'll prob'ly have a Z-min more like 4.5ohms.

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              • #8
                Thanks. Yeah, I saw .9 ohms and thought "Holy sh*t!"

                So, Chris, it looks like you were right about the Re value in the T/S parameters. Thanks again. It was 0.00. I changed it to 3.6ohms and here's what I've got:

                Last edited by TrickyMike; 01-20-2018, 03:16 PM.

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                • #9
                  VERY nice looking build, BTW.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks guys!

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                    • #11
                      Beautiful woodwork! Wish I had those skills!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TrickyMike View Post
                        Thanks. Yeah, I saw .9 ohms and thought "Holy sh*t!"

                        So, Chris, it looks like you were right about the Re value in the T/S parameters. Thanks again. It was 0.00. I changed it to 3.6ohms and here's what I've got:

                        ​That looks like a simulated impedance curve. What does the actual impedance curve look like? Have you measured it?
                        Brian Steele
                        www.diysubwoofers.org

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post

                          ​That looks like a simulated impedance curve. What does the actual impedance curve look like? Have you measured it?
                          It is. Not yet.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                            WinISD will do a simmed Z-plot (unless you want to know how close he hit his tuning?).
                            I was thinking more about potential noise issues and chuffing, but also how close the actual tuning/impedance ended up being compared to predicted.
                            As you know, I've had a failure or two with slot vents and obviously need to learn a bit more about how they work in real life. This vent is .75" high and quite long with lots of surface area so I'm curious how it came out.

                            TomZ
                            Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah, the port is a bit of an experiment, to be honest. I kind of just wanted to see what I could get away with. Jury's still out on that as I'm waiting on a Dayton DATS I ordered, but I can at least talk about port noise in the meantime.

                              I did get a little bit of chuffing before I rounded over the exit, but only with one reference track at full power (Yonce/Partition by Beyonce: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsVE8zwld28 ). The noise was slight.

                              After I rounded the edges (3/4") I wasn't able to reproduce the chuffing. Maybe fixed? I dunno.
                              I'm unlikely to be listening to that type of track (the song has a distinct low frequency sweep... down to maybe 20-25Hz?) at full power.

                              I've had them in my office all week and haven't noticed any port noise at all.


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