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The Parsimonium Subwoofer: Low cost 8" ported subwoofer build

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  • stephenmarklay
    replied
    Nice work.

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    Originally posted by randyohoh View Post
    Your two builds both look great. Love the silver painted sub, hope that you don't blow the paint off.
    so far, so good. A few coats of silver spray paint from a rattle can. Just had to do it to give the same aesthetic of the satellites to the subwoofer

    Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
    Nice work, it looks great!
    thank you -- that means a lot to me! I've admired your truly professional carpentry skills and I'm hoping to achieve a fraction of that. I really like the 2.1 computer system build that you did.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Nice work, it looks great!

    Leave a comment:


  • randyohoh
    replied
    Your two builds both look great. Love the silver painted sub, hope that you don't blow the paint off.

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    You've got a real eye for beautiful aesthetics!
    Very nice
    thanks Don -- you're too kind

    I just found a great deal on the grey veneer, so I'll be doing just about every speaker with it until it runs out!

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    You've got a real eye for beautiful aesthetics!
    Very nice

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    I used the port position shown in your link on my TB W5 mini sub, but for this sub I used a precut knock-down box so the dimensions were already set.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian Steele
    replied
    Originally posted by ceiol View Post


    thanks -- means a lot coming from you since you're the subwoofer king! Yes, part of the reason why I chose that sub (apart from the great price) was your review of it

    I put the port in the front in order to maximize the port length possible. The plate amp at the rear prevented me from mounting the flared end on rear of the enclosure. By putting the woofer and amp to one side of the enclosure, it gave me max length (front to back) for the port without having to use an elbow. I ended up with a port of about 9 inches in length

    I may do another one of these with two 1.75" ports instead -- a little more surface area so less chuffing at high excursion, but looks like I'll have to put elbows on those two 1.75" ports to get the sufficient length

    then I could do it like this -- all front mounted
    .O.
    with each . being a port and the O being the driver
    ​Did you hit the target Fb with the vent length as sim'd, or did you have to trim it? From the layout and the position of the vent where it is, there is the possibility that it would be loaded by the sides of the box, increasing its effective length, which means you could use a shorter vent to hit the target Fb

    ​Another idea for the next build - narrow the box so it's just slightly wider than the amp. Then you may be able to place the single big vent right below the driver on the front baffle, as per example at the page below.

    http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/home/retrofit/

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
    Nice. Interesting form factor/layout - I don't see that very often.

    thanks -- means a lot coming from you since you're the subwoofer king! Yes, part of the reason why I chose that sub (apart from the great price) was your review of it

    I put the port in the front in order to maximize the port length possible. The plate amp at the rear prevented me from mounting the flared end on rear of the enclosure. By putting the woofer and amp to one side of the enclosure, it gave me max length (front to back) for the port without having to use an elbow. I ended up with a port of about 9 inches in length

    I may do another one of these with two 1.75" ports instead -- a little more surface area so less chuffing at high excursion, but looks like I'll have to put elbows on those two 1.75" ports to get the sufficient length

    then I could do it like this -- all front mounted
    .O.
    with each . being a port and the O being the driver

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian Steele
    replied
    BTW, that DCS205 is pretty good driver, particularly considering the cost. I use it in my Boom Unit subwoofer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian Steele
    replied
    Nice. Interesting form factor/layout - I don't see that very often.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Parsimonium Subwoofer: Low cost 8" ported subwoofer build

    Parsimonium being a play on parsimonious, because I wanted to see just how little I could spend to make this subwoofer.

    The plate amplifier is an AudioSource 100w model which I got on the Free Classifieds forum here from DanP for $50

    The woofer is the Dayton DCS205-4 which I picked up as an open-box for $25 (part 88-295-200)

    The enclosure is the 3/4" thick MDF PE knockdown box which is a 12" external cube (giving an inside volume of 10.5" x 10.5" x 10.5" = 0.67 cubic feet) $37.82

    The port is a cheap tube coupled to one end of a precision port 2" flare which I had (I used the other flare end on another project)

    Port is 2" ID x about 9" deep, which tunes the box to about 36 Hz

    finished with grey veneer and then the method TomZ used in his Toni Table Radio: boiled linseed oil, then seal coat x2, then sanding, then shellac x a few coats.

    Sounds pretty good for being so low cost.

    total cost is $112.82 for above, plus the veneer, glue, screws, finish materials, and oh yeah, a ton of time! (but luckily, my labor is cheap!)

    Click image for larger version

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