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It seems I always have several projects in the works, but they often take some time to complete. I find myself being drawn to designs that I can build using re-purposed or easy to assemble enclosures (Classix II in BR-1, Speedsters in surplus, and laser cut Passive Aggressives). Well, the Vigor is no exception. Here is my laser cut version of the often imitated Brio. I'm still in the progress of building these, but I'll update as I go.
I deviated from the design and I'm making these 5.25" wide and deep instead of 5.5". The choice was made out of convenience. I'm laser cutting these out of pre-surfaced boards. For the Passive Agressives, I struggled to cut through the .5" baltic birch plywood with the 50 watt laser. This time around I wanted to try solid wood and .5" x 6" boards were readily available. I figured I'd start with a soft wood and see how it went.
I picked up two 6' aspen boards (.44" x 5.5" x 6') and got to work designing the finger joint boxes. The online tool MakerCase, makes this easy. I was able to create the box and all of the driver cutouts using the tool and downloaded the .svg file for the laser cutter. I made sure to center the pieces to be cut on the 5.5" board which gave me about .125" of wiggle room on each side and got to cutting. I CAD'ed up a 1" ID x 2.25" long flared port and got them printing.
I just completed gluing up the boxes. I plan on sanding off all the burnt finger edges, but will leave the burnt edge for the upper driver windows. I'll do a quick Watco finish and call them good. I have the 8 ohm TC9FD variant (peeled off the foam and glue) and I think the consensus is to wire them in parallel, in phase, with a 20uF cap in series with the top driver.
I'm excited to hear what $60 cardioid speakers sounds like!
I deviated from the design and I'm making these 5.25" wide and deep instead of 5.5". The choice was made out of convenience. I'm laser cutting these out of pre-surfaced boards. For the Passive Agressives, I struggled to cut through the .5" baltic birch plywood with the 50 watt laser. This time around I wanted to try solid wood and .5" x 6" boards were readily available. I figured I'd start with a soft wood and see how it went.
I picked up two 6' aspen boards (.44" x 5.5" x 6') and got to work designing the finger joint boxes. The online tool MakerCase, makes this easy. I was able to create the box and all of the driver cutouts using the tool and downloaded the .svg file for the laser cutter. I made sure to center the pieces to be cut on the 5.5" board which gave me about .125" of wiggle room on each side and got to cutting. I CAD'ed up a 1" ID x 2.25" long flared port and got them printing.
I just completed gluing up the boxes. I plan on sanding off all the burnt finger edges, but will leave the burnt edge for the upper driver windows. I'll do a quick Watco finish and call them good. I have the 8 ohm TC9FD variant (peeled off the foam and glue) and I think the consensus is to wire them in parallel, in phase, with a 20uF cap in series with the top driver.
I'm excited to hear what $60 cardioid speakers sounds like!
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