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The Travelers - New Year, New Design

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  • #31
    Originally posted by ScareYourPassenger View Post
    I assume that these were designed to be at least 18 inches from the back wall?
    18" is ideal but 12" - 36" works very well. Obviously they'll play just fine closer than 12" but the sound stage diminishes and sound more like a conventional speaker rather than open back mids. This applies to all of our open back mid designs.

    HTH

    Jim

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
      18" is ideal but 12" - 36" works very well. Obviously they'll play just fine closer than 12" but the sound stage diminishes and sound more like a conventional speaker rather than open back mids. This applies to all of our open back mid designs.
      HTH
      Jim
      Is this ideal distance pretty common for open-back mids in general or are there some other design aspects that heavily influence the ideal wall distance?
      If there are other design aspects, are any of them pretty concrete "tuning"/planning things you can mention, or is it more of a build it first and then test/listen to find out kind of thing?
      My first 2way build

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      • #33
        Originally posted by LOUT View Post
        Is this ideal distance pretty common for open-back mids in general or are there some other design aspects that heavily influence the ideal wall distance?
        If there are other design aspects, are any of them pretty concrete "tuning"/planning things you can mention, or is it more of a build it first and then test/listen to find out kind of thing?
        Curt tested different distances from the rear wall when we 1st tried open back mids and found 18" was the most wife friendly and allowed the soundstage to open up and sound much more realistic than closed back speakers. So, Curt has developed all of our open back speaker projects about 18" off the wall behind. Actually, nearly all high end speakers you would buy will sound best at 18" or more. You can buy speakers for close wall positioning but the sound stage suffers. Di-Pole speakers usually require 3' or more to sound as designed and have the big sound stage they're known for. Every crossover designer will have their own take on what they like and what sounds best to them.

        The design goals Curt has for every design he touches have been thoroughly researched before he starts the development. He's been developing crossovers for many, many years and has a real talent at getting the best performance possible out of the drivers used.

        HTH

        Jim

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        • #34
          Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post



          The design goals Curt has for every design he touches have been thoroughly researched before he starts the development. He's been developing crossovers for many, many years and has a real talent at getting the best performance possible out of the drivers used.

          HTH

          Jim
          Absolutely, Curt's speakers are marvellous: I never cease to be amazed at the sound and value from his Tritrix and Slapshots designs.

          Geoff

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          • #35
            Originally posted by ontariomaximus View Post
            The fronts are solid Bubinga (PAIN IN THE REAR! hard to work with)
            the rest is a mix of redwood burl veneer and myrtle burl
            The bass cab design for the RS225 is from the Amaroso designed by Paul K,
            Will post more of a review after spending some time with them.
            Beautiul build - if you dont mind me asking (planning a build myself) - how did you go about designing the extended cabinet? What changes, if any did you make? and/or did you isolate the lower woofer into it's own cabinet essentially?

            IT will be much appreciated!

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            • #36
              Paul K. designed a cabinet for the Finalists that will work for the Travelers. You will find that in another thread on this site.

              I recently purchased the full kit from Meniscus. The mids were on backorder for a while. Now it seems the kit isn't listed. I wonder if there was a long lead time on drivers so they pulled it temporarily. Seems the supply chain is going to be really messy for some time to come.
              Last edited by Paperweight; 04-04-2021, 06:37 PM.

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              • #37
                Here's the combined Travelers with Paul K. ML-TL if anyone is interested. I believe the measurements and dimentions are correct. I have yet to get any feedback on it and I haven't got around to test cutting and assembling it so I offer this as is.

                Dimentions are 15 1/2" depth front to back, 44 3/4" high and 11" wide. I think they may end up weighing 85-95 pounds in baltic birch 3/4" plywood.

                The cut list:

                Inner front baffle and Back panel: 43 1/4" X 9 1/2" 3/4" thick, 2 per speaker
                Outer front baffle: 44 3/4" X 11" ** 1/2" thick **, 1 per speaker
                Side Panels: 44 3/4" X 15" 3/4" thick, 2 per speaker
                Top and Bottom panel: 9 1/2" X 15" 3/4" thick, 2 per speaker

                PVC support panels: 9 1/2" X 7 1/2" 3/4" thick, 2 per speaker
                Inner Solid panel for top of woofer section: 13 1/2" X 9 1/2" 3/4" thick, 1 per speaker
                ML-TL main center panel: 24 7/8" X 9 1/2" 3/4" thick, 1 per speaker
                Window Braces: 9 1/2" X 6 3/8" 3/4" thick, 4 per speaker

                Paul K.'s original drawing for the ML-TL included the bit about ~14oz of polyfill is to be added in the front half of the woofer cabinet. The back port half of the cabinet doesn't get any.
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Paperweight; 04-19-2021, 12:40 AM.

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                • #38
                  Hi, Newbie here, I'm looking for a 3 way design that has a slightly elevated mid bass, most 3 ways I've seen measurements of seem slightly recessed or a dip in mid bass area with a bump in the (port) lower bass region, I'm really interested in the Travelers, are there any measurements posted anywhere or can anyone comment on the sound character. Thanks. Kevin

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                  • #39
                    I'm currently working on a split cabinet for the tweeter and mid drivers in a smaller top half and the woofer and ML-TL cabinet in the bottom half. I'm still working on placing a 1/2" sheet of plywood in the bottom of the tweeter/mid cabinet but it requires the PVC braces to be shaved down to the bottom of the tunnet to fit. All the parts have to be fairly precise to get everything just right. I'm a newbie with limited time off so this will take a while.

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                    • #40
                      Going over the cutouts and recesses, it occoured to me to get confirmation on the impedances of each driver before I get further along. Nowhere did I find mention of that. Meniscus does not mention the driver impedance on the kit page.

                      After the fun of discovering the 4 ohm mid was no longer made for the Finalist, I'm wary.

                      So, all three drivers are 8 ohm impedance? That's what I received in the kit.

                      Any help with this would be appreciated.

                      Also, what's the best way to connect the OW2 tweeters? There seems to be just 2 tinned eyelets in back. I figure overheating those would be a huge no no. The frame will act like a big heatsink making overheating more probable.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Paperweight View Post
                        Going over the cutouts and recesses, it occoured to me to get confirmation on the impedances of each driver before I get further along. Nowhere did I find mention of that. Meniscus does not mention the driver impedance on the kit page.

                        After the fun of discovering the 4 ohm mid was no longer made for the Finalist, I'm wary.

                        So, all three drivers are 8 ohm impedance? That's what I received in the kit.

                        Any help with this would be appreciated.

                        Also, what's the best way to connect the OW2 tweeters? There seems to be just 2 tinned eyelets in back. I figure overheating those would be a huge no no. The frame will act like a big heatsink making overheating more probable.
                        All of the drivers are 8 ohms. Follow the crossover schematic and you'll be fine.

                        I'd suggest you buy a roll of 63/37 solder. It melts easily and you'll never have a cold joint with it.

                        The eylets on the back of the driver are made to be heated carefully which is where the 63/37 solder works great. I'd sugest you you use theseconnectors ( ) whichmakes it really easy to remove the driver if needed.

                        Good luck!

                        Jim
                        Last edited by TroyH; 09-16-2021, 09:22 AM.

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                        • #42
                          Perfect, thank you.

                          I use Kester 44 62/36/2 and the associated 186 liquid rosin flux to go with it. Great stuff and makes the most beautiful fillets on circuitboard pads. I did invest in a good Weller station and just got a Hakko shop air desoldering station. Been repairing and reworking old Hewlett Packard audio and RF test equipment over the last few years. Also got a couple cassette decks working and modded a CD player of all things. Audio electronics is a fun hobby.

                          I'm still surprised and amazed at how much I enjoy working with battery tools to cut these speakers out. I would have never told you I liked woodworking a year ago. My brother just told me battery tools are all he uses during remodeling jobs. I strongly disliked saws but I'm thinking about a tablesaw purchase.
                          Last edited by Paperweight; 09-16-2021, 05:54 PM.

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                          • #43
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                            I believe you mentioned the 45 degree chamfer on the back of the inner front baffle leading into the mid tunnel.

                            I reused a piece from the failed first cabinet to make the inner front baffle on the right. It will be covered by the outer front baffle and sides. You'll never know it is there.

                            I'm waiting on the arrival of a 23 gauge pin nailer and some screws to assemble the top parts of the cabinets. Next will be the woofer cabinets. I think I'm going to attach one side with screws for access to stuff and adjust things after initial assembly completion. If I notice a panel resonates, I have some butyl rubber sheets to dampen things.

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