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Four crossovers later...

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  • Four crossovers later...

    Finally am happy with converting my old HT mini-monitors to in-wall. ARC says I got it right within 2 dB through the crossover.
    Bad location, I know. Structure is in the way, so one does what one can. Dayton RS150's with Seas 27's LR4 @ 1800 acoustic. Center is a pair of the Daytons. Sub is a sealed Dayton Titanic sitting behind the center screen. I plan on converting to to a BP4.
    A little weak in the top octave as I am so far off center and ARC does not eq above 5K. If I do another pair, I may try a fancier baffle that allows me to point the tweeters. Imaging is as one would expect, terrible. I may try some OC boards on the side walls.
    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Only four? I think I tweaked and added to my latest build 6-7 times. Eventually would like to clean up the hodge podge of parts and glue them down but would rather listen to them at the moment then spend any more time inside of them.
    I'm certainly not good at this. Just stubborn enough to keep going.

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    • #3
      One of the reasons why I mount the x-overs OUTSIDE the enclosure until I've finally decided in a particular concoction.

      I connect the x-over to the speakers (usually 2-way) via two pairs of cable and a 4-pole Speakon connector, which effectively bi-wires the speaker with an easy to remove connector that makes it difficult to do silly things like mistakenly connect the bass section of the x-over to the tweeter. .
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #4
        Yea, only 4 but that is major design, not the small tweaks. Tweaking the tweeter pad does not count. Been at it for a lot of years and I let ARC handle the bottom end. Being flush, not much problem with baffle step. I concentrated on the crossover region and the horrible off-axis listening position. I am with in 2 dB through the crossover. Nothing I can do about the too-near walls unless I go to treatments, but being a guest room. I had already used these drivers so I know how to handle the RS breakup and Seas off-axis. I can't remember how many versions I started with when in boxes. Originally some $20 Vifa domes, but too much distortion. Tried XT-25's but very bad match as the RS have to be crossed very low and the XT high, as well as it falls off a cliff off-axis. ( Going into my next desktop monitors) Then used the Seas. They may get upgraded to the aluminum dome version for lower distortion or I might get carried away and stuff a TB 3 inch mid in there, lowering the RS even more and raising the Seas, may allow shallower slopes. Target was LR-4 acoustic, 3rd electrical. A mid may let me go second and make the phase and offsets easier. We are never really done. Kind of like my MG and Triumph.

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