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TWF6 desktop speaker

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  • #16
    Looking Good!
    I'm jealous of your woofer recess, that's nice.

    TomZ
    Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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    • #17
      I thought I should finish this build diary, so here are some more pictures and details.

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      • #18
        Base module for the Bluetooth amp, batteries, charger, and battery status panel.

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        Attached Files

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        • #19
          Front panel battery monitor display and ON/OFF
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          • #20
            Bluetooth amp
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            • #21
              The finished base with all the parts fitted - a bit tight!

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              • #22
                Schematic of complete speakers.

                TWF 6 speaker schematics.pdf

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                • #23
                  The finished speakers, taking pride of place on my desk.

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                  • #24
                    Nice results, nice documentation, thanks.

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                    • #25
                      They're beautiful. That's some next-level engineering going on there in my opinion. I'd botch the electronics in that all up guaranteed. I especially like the integration of the electronics into the bases. Nice work!

                      You've nearly doubled the interior volume, I wonder how do they sound?

                      TomZ
                      Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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                      • #26
                        Pride indeed, they look great. are you charging them off USB?

                        Edit, i completely forgot you already answered the USB thing. I would be keep to know how you managed to do this as i've heard mixed outcomes about overloading a wall wart which can cause a short\fire etc. I really want to do somethng similar with an upcoming 2 builds so very very keen to know how you did it.

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                        • #27
                          A couple queries...
                          Shouldn't you have current limiting resistors on the LEDs? IME, even being a low draw at 5V will overcurrent them. I blew 2 sets of LEDs over this learning experience.
                          I see you have amplifier outputs labeled as HP +/- and LP + and HP - in the schematic.
                          So, you are biamping the drivers, and using a passive xover. Why did you go this route over DSP/active solutions? Just curious...

                          You clearly know more than me about the active side of electronic things to do this, so please correct me if I'm wrong.

                          Looks great!
                          Wolf
                          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                          *InDIYana event website*

                          Photobucket pages:
                          https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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                          • #28
                            Red. Orange, yellow, & yellow-green LEDs need 1.8 - 2 volts while white, blue, and deep green LEDs need around 3 volts to light them up. These small LEDs can only handle 10 - 20 mA of current and the higher the voltage supplied the more current the LED will draw. Running a 2 volt LED at 5 volts will fry the LED, it's only a matter of time and it could be within seconds.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by randyohoh View Post
                              Red. Orange, yellow, & yellow-green LEDs need 1.8 - 2 volts while white, blue, and deep green LEDs need around 3 volts to light them up. These small LEDs can only handle 10 - 20 mA of current and the higher the voltage supplied the more current the LED will draw. Running a 2 volt LED at 5 volts will fry the LED, it's only a matter of time and it could be within seconds.
                              This

                              I'll add explanation. A diode, LED or any type is effectively a near short circuit above it's threshold voltage. A current limiting resistor is 100% required in series with the diode. The current the diode will see is calculated by (applied voltage - diode junction voltage) / Series resistor. Target ~10mA for that current based on whatever input voltage you apply.
                              Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
                              Wogg Music
                              Published projects: PPA100 Bass Guitar Amp, ISO El-Cheapo Sub, Indy 8 2.1 powered sub, MicroSat, SuperNova Minimus

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